FAQ |
Members List |
Social Groups |
Calendar |
Search |
Today's Posts |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
Stuck intake, help!
Has anybody removed a stuck intake from a 64 389 while the motor is in the car?
I tried a 3 foot pry bar with no luck. I don't want to break anything. Anybody have successful hands on experience with this? C Thank you. Mario64 |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Not that intake specifically. But with a stuck Buick intake I used my engine hoist to put some pressure on it and gave it a couple of smacks with a big rubber mallet.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
All 12 bolts at the heads have been removed as well as the one long one at the timing cover I assume.
Both valve covers removed and out of the way. A large sharpened screwdriver blade can be used with a good 2-pound hammer to get between the intake and head interface all around to loosen it up. You want something thin and strong enough to drive between the head and intake to break the seal of the gaskets. Not to use to pry them apart but to loosen up the bond between the heads and intake.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
The Following User Says Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Thank you both. I was worried the cast iron would be damaged or broken. I had thought about the cherry picker. Did you use an engine plate?
Mario64 |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Cast iron is tough but of course it can be broken.
Just use care and common sense in your approach.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/2.56 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 |
The Following User Says Thank You to b-man For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Twelve into the heads - yellow circles. The one that pulls it forward to the timing cover - location shown by yellow arrow. It's really easy to miss one or more. Good luck! |
The Following User Says Thank You to Joe's Garage For This Useful Post: | ||
#7
|
|||
|
|||
One of the yellow circles is missing. Don't forget the left front one.
|
The Following User Says Thank You to mgarblik For This Useful Post: | ||
#8
|
|||
|
|||
If you are putting that much force on the manifold to loosen it leave a couple of longer bolts in the manifold/head so that you don't eat the intake when it comes loose.
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Been there done that I once had a '64 GTO I'd bought from a neighbor and I had the front end of the car almost entirely off the ground trying to get the intake off using an engine hoist. I don't remember how I finally got it off but I did; probably prying with a chisel along the edges between the intake and the heads?
|
#10
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks guys. I don't feel alone. All 12 bolts were out Including the waterpump bolt. I will not be able to try this again for a few months due to time constraints. I wanted to change the valley pan gasket due to leaks, but now out of time.
Thanks to all that have responded. And thanks for the tip about leaving a few bolts in to keep from launching the manifold into the yard! Mario64 |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
Whooops.
Quote:
Fixed it. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
Just in case you were wondering why I want to remove my intake. I am chasing down the oil leaks.
Anybody know where it could be coming from? Thank you. Mario 64 |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
I think they all have this;
As in all Pontiac V8's. It's probably coming off the cork valley pan gasket, or the PCV on the valley pan.
__________________
1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Sacrifice a sharp putty knife and drive it between head and intake. A narrow one preferably.
__________________
I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
Reply |
|
|