[Alizar]

Engine is disassembled. It's a YH block with the 524009 cam ("C") and rods appear to be cast. Overall it's in better shape than I expected considering it sat for 20 years. Most of the bearings look like they just have light wear. The worst thing I see is some scratches on the cylinder walls, one appears to be about .005" deep. Not much of a lip on the cylinder though.

Heavy carbon deposits on the pistons & valves. Exhaust valves are definitely recessed, but I don't have a valve press to remove them and see if it's the valve or the seat. I'm trying to see if I can source any better cast iron heads locally. At this point I'm leaning towards going to aluminum heads since they aren't that much more than most cast iron heads that I'm finding and I expect the aluminum ones will perform significantly better.

[Scarebird]

I would put it back together with new seals, gaskets and KRE heads; nothing else. Obviously clean the engine!

This forum has shown that getting the right bearings, etc. in these times is a sketchy go.

[Alizar]

I'm in the middle of assembly, and the oil dipstick tube is giving me some trouble - anyone have suggestions? I drove it in flush pointing forward like the Butler instructions state, but the curved tube for my windage tray is still not fitting right. Seems like most instructions/photos I have seen showing the tube driven flush with block have 2-bolt mains. I'm wondering if it needs to be recessed more for 4-bolt blocks? I have it ~1/16" past flush already and I'm afraid to go in any more. Today I test-fit the heads and the upper part of the tube is interfering with the Edelbrock exhaust flange and the flange on the Doug's headers. Any suggestions on what to do there? I'm guessing I'll need to remove some material from the heads and/or header. I noticed the material on the Edelbrock heads sits flush with the exhaust ports, but on the stock ones it was recessed for the tube to clear behind the headers.

On the plus side I do like the way it's looking!