[Vid]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

Yeah, It does look dry. I always lube the gasket, but maybe I haven't been lubing it enough. I usually dip my finger in oil and give the seal a pass.

I go one step further than oil and use some wheel bearing grease like red n’ tacky. About 40 years ago I experienced an oil filter gasket leak similar to yours on a 302 SBC. I apparently didn’t use quite enough of the “oil on fingertip” method and the gasket grabbed and crinkled just enough to generate a minor but annoying leak. Ever since then I carefully give the gasket a neatly applied but ample dose of quality grease and I always wipe down the mounting boss at least twice before installation. Ever since, my leaks are from something other than the oil filter gasket, haha.


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[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

What's you breather setup, the OE one to the air cleaner assembly?

Maybe try an open type breather on one of the covers? That would eliminate any concerns over crankcase psi.


.

I have the stock setup to the air cleaner right now. I have a breather on the way for the driver's side, we'll see how that does.

Originally Posted by 78w72

Hope you can confirm where its coming from, smoke test is a good idea but at this point if you have wiped it all dry around the leak then went for a drive & saw where its wet only on the rear of the pan & not up by the filter housing, filter itself or valve covers etc... i think youve found the source of the leak.

Im pretty sure the rubber U seal isnt supposed to have RTV on it, just the corners, unless the bop gasket is designed different, those early 3 hole pans/gaskets are known to heave problems sealing, the later 5 hole design is better but still not as good as the cork gasket around the main cap.

I'm fairly certain it's the pan gasket. The instructions say to use dabs of sealer on the corners, but you're right, they don't say to use it on the U seal. I was so paranoid about leaks, I figured I'd do a little extra around the back. Oh, the irony!

I do have to wonder - if it's leaking with RTV at high RPMs, wouldn't it be worse without it?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

If the slots in the pan are over the groove in the main cap how does the gasket get compressed so oil doesn't leak out the slots?

Gasket thick enough to work with a grooved rear main cap would be too thick for a non grooved cap.

And did you use any sealer at the parting line between the rear main cap and block?

Clay

[grandam1979]

What kind of filter is it?

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

What kind of filter is it?

Wix 51258

[Gach]

80 lbs pressure @ 2500 rpms is allot of pressure. Have you always run that amount of pressure with no issues?

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Gach

80 lbs pressure @ 2500 rpms is allot of pressure. Have you always run that amount of pressure with no issues?

I run that filter on my street car. 10W-30 VR1. 110-115 PSI cold start. Drops to about 25PSI at operating temperature at 1000 RPM idle. Stock M54F pump with Nightmare Performance plate. Never a leak. Burst pressure is 300 PSI on that filter.

[jhein]

Maybe try oiling both sides of the seal? Pull the seal from the filter, oil it, put it back in. If oiling one side is good, both should be better. I've never done that before but it doesn't sound like a terrible idea.

It reminds me of my temperamental Quadrajet fuel line flare. If I try to install it dry, it's no good. Leak almost guaranteed, If I lube it, I get a good seal.

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by Gach

80 lbs pressure @ 2500 rpms is allot of pressure. Have you always run that amount of pressure with no issues?

That much pressure is new to me with this engine and honestly I didn't expect it.

I'm basing the 80lbs off of the bottom mark on the rally gauge, but I assume the gauge is accurate since they were calibrated when they were rebuilt. Hot idle is about the middle of the gauge which I'm interpreting as 40psi. I'm running 15-50 Driven at Butler's recommendation, maybe running 10-30 would ease things up.

Originally Posted by jhein

Maybe try oiling both sides of the seal? Pull the seal from the filter, oil it, put it back in. If oiling one side is good, both should be better. I've never done that before but it doesn't sound like a terrible idea.

I was actually thinking the opposite - using gasket maker to adhere the bottom of the seal to the filter like some of the other brands appear to do.

[jhein]

Originally Posted by Verdoro 68

I was actually thinking the opposite - using gasket maker to adhere the bottom of the seal to the filter like some of the other brands appear to do.

The reason I mentioned it is because when installing the large water filters I use for my home water system, with big O-rings, I use silicone to lube them, otherwise they bind up and stretch when tightening and don't seal. That's what I think oiling our filter seals does. The oil doesn't actually make the seal, but it allows the seal to slide against the housing surface so it doesn't stretch and bind.

[dataway]

For those of us who are anal, we might clean that filter housing surface with brake cleaner or something to get it nice and clean, forgetting how dry it leaves it. If any part of the filter seal is proud it contacts the dry housing first and gets wiped dry, add in a bit more torque than usual and the housing surface will try to wrinkle up that section of filter seal.

Clean things up and put on a new filter. Run it and check it again ... at the very least you will be able to cross the filter off the list if it's still leaking.

[grandam1979]

So looking at your picture of filter seal it looks to have a big chunk out of it? Maybe just try a new filter and see what happens. Not going to get in a psi debate but my engine will push 100psi + when cold and I have had no filter leaking issues stock filter housing being used and the long branch adapter to tilt it back. I use Frame HP and Bosch filters Just my 2¢

[sdbob]

I feel,think, that we today blame ourselves for things like this, however I think that penny's are saved by manufacturers at the expense of quality. I also believe that the engineers do their best at producing a quality product. So as some have alluded too with hard products lifters rockers etc we just need to be vigilant. I have a good friend who runs mopars. He was at a car show in his small home town. Did a water burnout with a 10sec 440for show.hit 6200 he said, then engine missing, dreaded noise. He bent 2 Smith Bros push rods,along with breaking destroying 2 comp cams roller lifters. Smith Bros said' how did you bend the push rods?' Lifters bad?

[Verdoro 68]

Originally Posted by grandam1979

So looking at your picture of filter seal it looks to have a big chunk out of it?

No chunk missing, it was just wavy indicating it bucked when I installed it. Must have just been a slight buckle since it held a lower pressure.

I'll put a new filter on today, go for a cruise and see it's any better.

[Verdoro 68]

The K&N filter still has the gasket crimped it in place, but it's much more secure than the cogs the Wix filter uses and won't budge. It's pretty easy to lift the Wix gasket right out of the channel and I'm sure that doesn't help prevent buckling or warping if the seal isn't lubricated enough.

K&N


Wix




I ended up using the K&N and made sure to lube the gasket really well. I also lubed the filter adapter sealing surface for good measure. Fired up the car, let it warm up then ran it up to 3k for a few minutes a few times. No sign of leaks yet but I'll do a freeway run tomorrow and see what happens.

Coincidentally, they just released a new Engine Masters where they test different viscosities of oil. Pretty interesting test. The heavier oil resulted in a few more HP because of better ring sealing.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Guys, Wix has started making a lot of their filters in China. It’s a good idea to see where your particular filter is made. This is why I have switched to Mobil 1 oil filters.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Guys, Wix has started making a lot of their filters in China. It’s a good idea to see where your particular filter is made. This is why I have switched to Mobil 1 oil filters.

I had a feeling this was going to happen when they were bought by Mann of Germany a few years ago. Used to be made exclusively in North Carolina. US made is no guarantee of quality either unfortunately. There is a huge FRAM plant about 20 miles from my house in Greenville, OH. We all know they have the weakest construction of any filter out there. Does WIX have country of origin on the filter itself or box?

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

I had a feeling this was going to happen when they were bought by Mann of Germany a few years ago. Used to be made exclusively in North Carolina. US made is no guarantee of quality either unfortunately. There is a huge FRAM plant about 20 miles from my house in Greenville, OH. We all know they have the weakest construction of any filter out there. Does WIX have country of origin on the filter itself or box?

On the bottom of the box, Mike. I discovered this when I purchased the last Wix oil filter for my Forester. If it was Taiwan I wouldn’t object due to the fact that most products manufactured in Taiwan are as good or a little better than items manufactured here in the U.S. The ONLY Fram oil filter I would buy ever use would be their racing oil filters, unless they have gone to crap as well.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

Guys, Wix has started making a lot of their filters in China. It’s a good idea to see where your particular filter is made. This is why I have switched to Mobil 1 oil filters.

Since Mann and Hummel (a huge German conglomerate) bought out WIX, there has been talk of the internals being cheapened. I recently watched a You tube video comparing a NAPA gold to the Wix top of the line, the WIX wasn't the same internally, and when they cut the media and flattened it out, there was less media in the WIX filter. Some of the hardware in the WIX was also cheapened up. The NAPA gold appeared to be the clear winner over the WIX premium filter.

A few years ago these filters were identical inside, but good old greedy corporations saw to that in a hurry. Just be aware that you're not buying the same quality filter you used to be in the WIX line. The guy that put the video together alluded to his opinion, that NAPA wasn't still having WIX make the current gold filter. Only his opinion though, nothing concrete to back it up.

The same happened at Purolator, Mann and Hummel bought them out, and started cheapening the filters.

I seem to remember Vince from Shamwow saying, "The Germans build good stuff".......... I guess when you move manufacturing to china, it ceases to be made by Germans.

The good thing is with a bypass filter I know 100% what I have for media, because I put it in there. My cannister is stainless steel, also made in the USA, the media is also made in the USA by Scott Paper, 2 ply too............

[77 TRASHCAN]

An oil leak on your new converter, shoot!!!