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#1
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Tri power rear carb
I cannot get the squirters to squirt on the rear carb on my 65. Carb has been tanked and tested for open passages. the squirters feed is open and the two holes are open. I changed the ball and spring. When the ball and spring was out, I filled the bowl and pushed down the accelerator pump and the fluid came to the top of the hole. I installed the venturi, and nothing. I tried a soft plastic part in place of the accelerator pump that fit tighter than the pump, and STILL no squirt. PLEASE HELP!!!!
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#2
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There are 2 check balls in the 2 bbl Rochesters, one you already have located, the other goes into the bottom of the accelerator pump well. They are different diameters, and if you put the smaller one in the well it sticks in the casting. Sometimes it's nearly impossible to remove, it may be that someone has switched the balls and it is stuck in the casting.
In this parts diagram it would be #7: I've seen this happen before, so I'm just throwing it out there that could be a possibility. |
#3
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Checkball
You have that backward. The smaller checkball goes in the pump well. I suspect it may be missing. Similar Chevy carbs from the 60s have no orifice in the bottom of the well.
So, I have seen this checkball missing more than a couple of times. I suspect someone familiar with Chevy Rochesters has had this carb apart. |
#4
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Agree on the probability of missing intake check ball (or possibly the wrong ball or one not seating).
If the ball was in place, and you pushed down on the pump with the output check ball, spring and guide missing, you would have a face full of fuel, not the fuel just coming to the top of the hole. Jon
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"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. |
#5
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Quote:
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#6
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I posted an explanation a few years ago. with pictures of how to remove the stuck check ball.
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BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
#7
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__________________
BONESTOCK GOATS '64 GTO Tripower Hardtop (Wife's Car) '64 GTO Tripower Post Coupe (My Car) '99 Bonneville SE Sedan |
#8
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The plot thickens.
Quote:
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#9
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The plot thickens.
Quote:
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#10
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OK, something simple we are all missing.
The lower ball opens to allow fuel to enter the pump well from the bowl (evidently working) and closes to prevent fuel from being pumped back into the bowl. So on the workbench (suggest using water, not fuel), if you fill the pump well, but put no water in the bowl, does the water bleed past the lower ball into the bowl (it should not). If the discharge check ball, spring, and "T" retainer is out, and you now push down quickly on the pump, do you get a healthy squirt of water out the discharge where the discharge ball would have been. Make these tests and something should turn up. I have seen several of the ball seats in the pump well which have been ruined by Dr. Goodpliers (the evil twin of Mr. Goodwrench) drilling out a stuck ball instead of following Dick's method. You will find the issue, just need to do some testing from bowl to squirter. Jon
__________________
"Good carburetion is fuelish hot air". "The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one given to you by your neighbor". If you truly believe that "one size fits all" try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! Owner of The Carburetor Shop, LLC (of Missouri). Current caretaker of the remains of Stromberg Caburetor, and custodian of the existing Carter and Kingston carburetor drawings. |
#11
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Maybe a stupid answer, are the squirter holes plugged? They are 0.022", not very big and can get plugged by very little of anything.
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