[kyle_blake]

Hi

Just wondering if anyone might have a suggestion on where I might look to help diagnose why I'm feeling braking in my steering wheel when light braking? Like, sticky or something. The car stops well, drives straight.

All the calipers are new and bolts torqued to spec. Wheels nuts are torqued to spec.

Over the last couple years I've done a number of things so I don't know what "one thing" that changed so i can undo but here is some of the work done.

Vehicle : 69 gto, front disc, rear drums.

New Calipers
New Pads ac delco
New Rotors ac delco and good inner outer bearings
New sway bar bushings and end links.
New Lower control arm Moog bushings with new Moog ball joint
QA1 Coil over's in the front.
Lower control arm bolts tightened with vehicle weight.

Still old Upper control arm bushings.
I don't see any worn out parts in tie rods etc or front end rods/parts.

Maybe you can steer me in right directions if you've had something like this before.

Thanks for reading!

[Schurkey]

WHAT DO YOU MEAN "feeling braking in my steering wheel"?

What does the steering wheel DO? Shake? If so, most-likely cause is warped rotor(s), but pull the handle on the park brake, gradually apply the park brake pedal at ~25 mph, and verify that the rear brakes aren't causing the shake. With the handle pulled, the park brake will release as soon as you let-off the pedal, so they're not locked-on.

Upper control arm bushings are suspect based on age. Same for the upper ball joints.

[kyle_blake]

Thanks . No it doesn't shake like that. You can just feel the brakes , assume front, applying ..... in the steering wheel. If that makes sense? Sorry about not finding the right word. The rotor's runout were checked and were within spec.

I think it must of been going from stock spring/shock suspension to new QA1 coil over and only doing half the lower ball joints and bushings. Perhaps it is a slight movement because everything isn't being held in place . Ok thanks.

the e-brake pedal suggestion at 25 , I'll try - thanks everyone.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by kyle_blake

No it doesn't shake like that. You can just feel the brakes , assume front, applying ..... in the steering wheel. If that makes sense?

No, it does not make sense.

Describe what the steering wheel does.

Originally Posted by kyle_blake

The rotor's runout were checked and were within spec.

What about thickness variation?

[JLMounce]

While the outward appearance of the upper control arm bushings may "look" okay, you can't tell what is happening inside the bushing. If the rubber has ripped away from the sleeve, there could be a lot of deflection occurring in the upper control arms.

If there is enough deflection in the control arm, this can exhibit as a toe change under braking, accelerating or turning. You can feel toe changes in your steering wheel which act as kind of a pulling sensation.

As you apply the brakes to you have to correct the attitude of the car, or do you feel a sensation as if the vehicle is yawing in one or both directions as brakes are applied?

That would all be my first inclination, but I believe you should also check the rest of the steering system to be sure. Get under the car and press/pull at various parts of the steering. You should have no looseness in the tie rods, drag link, pitman arm or idler arm. Some movement will always occur, but any movement should feel tight and controlled. If there's any clunking or the parts can be easily moved, it's time for replacement. Also check your rag joint.

[kyle_blake]

Schurkey -> Thanks again for you immediate advise on the forum. It's like a sticking sensation, no car pull right or left, the steering wheel does not move right or left during braking, no vibration like if one was experience rotors that are warped - as I know that feeling from when i was a kid. There is no change in the feel as the car brakes, like if there was some sort of "gliding across rotor surface change". It's just sorta grabbing clunky. I've probably failed in my description, lol. The previous stock GM rotors and PADS had a bunch of RV sealant on the back of pads to (i assume) keep them in place or maybe prevent squealing. I do not know.

I did not check thickness variation.

I need to rule out the back brakes like you said.

JL & SCHURKEY> I don't feel car movement sensation as if car is wanting to mildly change direction. You press brakes and you are like that doesn't feel right, it's this area of why is not connecting firm and tight to rotor is my thought. I think you are right I'm going to go under there and do full assessment. It may just come down to all the top end control arm not holding it and as i brake it's moving the bushings that slight amount making it loose when slightly braking. rag joint is good idea to check as well as all the parallelogram front end design. ok thanks guys i have my marching orders. as always thank you everyone

[steve25]

If you narrow it down to the front then jack the front up on each side and have someone spin the tire while you apply the brakes lightly.

If you do not feel anything then you know the issue is due to suspension loading during brake applications.

[Lemans64]

Another thing to watch for is the outer pad moving, can cause clunk. Old pads had (Silicone) for lack of better terms on outside pads, this can help pads from moving.
Outside pads had tabs on top and bottom of the metal part, these need to be bend over to make them stay tight on the caliper. Either take pad out
and squeeze tabs down or tap down with hammer or have somebody put foot on brake pedal with Chisel between bottom of pad and rotor center section
and then bend tabs down on top of pad to make pads secure to caliper.

[Holeshot71]

I would definitely recheck everything, make sure nothing is loose or maybe a tire rubbing.