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#1
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Has anyone installed the AMES center caps on their Rally II wheels (the PMD versions with the stud/nut on the inside to lock and keep from being stolen)?
If so, has anyone had clearances issues when getting the front wheels installed on the car? For some reason, the grease cap that goes on the rotor (I have a 70 Firebird by the way) sticks out too far which then hits the inside of the center cap (there's a washer, nut, and stud which is part of the locking mechanism) and prevents the wheel from being mounted. I've had to leave off the center caps for now. Do they make lower clearance grease caps? Any help is appreciated. Thanks. |
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#2
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I had the same problem with those & ended up clearancing the dust cap with a small swing press. (both dust caps already had some previous issues)
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#3
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Same thing I indented the caps some and cut a little of the scews back also. I think you could also just put a couple of shorter bolts in instead of cutting them.
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#4
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Anyone else have issue with the reproduction bolt on PMD center cap not clearing the front disc brake dust cap on an early 2nd gen Firebird?
Just tried a set and no way no matter what will the bolt on PMD caps fit on front. Have to buy the push on OEM style PMD caps. Stock disc brake set up too. Original 15x7 Rallye II rims as well. |
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#5
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No issues on my 69 GTO, front disc, rear drum, 15x7. Use threadlocker, I've lost a couple on the road.
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Chris D 69 GTO Liberty Blue/dark blue T400, 9" w 3.50s, 3905lbs 461, 850 Holley, T2, KRE 310s, Comp HR 236/242D .572/.594L, RA manifolds, 11.53@114, 1.55/60 The spare: 467, 850 Holley, T2, Edelbrock Dport 310cfm w RA manifolds, Howard HFT 245/251D .561/.594L, 11.59@ 114, 1.57/ 60' |
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#6
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This may not be of assistance, but I bought many years ago 67-72 (& 73/74) cap locks from Performance Years (or at least I seem to recall buying it from);
I have the package here, but now that I am looking at it, I am wondering if I have something mixed up (more on that in a second) - it looks to have been part number PWL34. The instructions suggest that it was manufactured by a company that went by the name 'Cap-Loc', and their part number appears to be PON-2. These are ABS parts that are locked on a wheel after the cap is installed with a 3/8" drive ratchet. This install sheet (and the part number) seem to be for Honeycomb caps - and I am pretty sure I purchased a set for those too (I had a 73 Formula running honeycombs - and those caps (and trim rings) fly off like nobody's business - but I thought these ones were the Rally II PMD cap locks... Maybe the PMD cap locks are 'PON-1'? EDIT: I just found the other set of cap-loc's; They appear virtually identical... and don't seem to install any looser than the locks I have here which exhibit more use... I had understood that the issue with those metal lock assemblies is that they protrude where the grease cap is - while these abs locks are concave(?) to clear the grease caps.
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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#7
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I used to modify Ames and PY kits for use on front hubs.
I made a washer, drilled and tapped edges right at the cut outs ( no newer wheels will work) used 3 small machine screws . All tires could be rotated then. Been a while since I made them. Some members have them still I'm sure.
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" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#8
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I had the same problem with stock Rally rims and stock front disc brakes. I ended up indenting the dust caps. I would prefer a better way.
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#9
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Quote:
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#10
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I recently installed these PMD caps on 15x7 GM Rallyes and no issue on front, however, I had also replaced the bearing dust caps with some generic "Made in China" caps as the originals were all beat up. Perhaps these dust caps are what helped me out.
I remember reading this thread awhile ago and expected interference when I finally got the PMD caps on but there was none.
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Michael 1970 Oshawa built 1 option Judge. 24 year restoration/upgrade project finally finished! 1979 Trans Am - low-buck drag car project for when I retire |
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#11
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They wouldn't fit even with no cap on. Went ahead and bought some used OEM push on style. If I desire new and shiny, I guess I can buy two bolt-on style for the rear wheels, and two reproduction push on style for the front I guess.
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#12
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I hope I am not becoming a nuisance, but I am going to add pictures of these ones I have;
I thought they were a great part, and am wondering if anyone knows if they are still available through any supplier, or under a different name - because I cannot seem to find them via google or duck duck go searches. Here are both sets - the 'Honeycomb' set is virtually unused, and still with bag and instructions: Here is a comparison of the two; The 'Honeycomb' lock is the bottom one: Here is a side profile comparison - this time the 'Honeycomb' one is on top: Here is the instructions included with the Honeycomb locks: Again, if anyone knows if these are still available, or what happened with these, I for one would love to hear it...
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1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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#13
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| The Following User Says Thank You to 22687 For This Useful Post: | ||
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