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#1
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Hi everyone, I am new to this forum!
I have a very nice 1968 GTO that I built an engine for mostly for the strip. Its engine dynode at 500 HO and 600 Ft lbs. at 5,200 and 4,200 RPM. The car is otherwise stock, and I'm nervous about breaking the driveline. Doug's headers and stockish dual exhaust although I'm thinking about cut outs. It has a 10 bolt 3.36 Aubern Posi in it, and I am running MT street / strip tires. I just put in the Posi last year. I'm thinking that if I replace the driveshaft, U joints, Pinion and Ring, and Axles I'd be in good shape, rather than buying a 12 bolt and replacing the expensive Aubern, plus those other things too. Does this make sense? Thanks! Last edited by ebartone; 08-13-2024 at 10:59 AM. |
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#2
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That makes sense. Based on my limited experience long ago with a Trans Am, 12 bolt rearend and stock driveshaft & U-joints.....putting on 9" slicks immediately revealed the stock axles to be the weakest link.
Breaking a u-joint can cause the driveshaft to tear up the floor of the car, so getting better parts there is good insurance. Hope this helps, Eric
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"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth" noted philosopher Mike Tyson Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. “The mind, once stretched by a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions.” |
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#3
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Thanks! Any advice on Sources / brands for:
1) U Joints 2) Drive Shaft 3) Axle 4) Ring / Pinion 5) Other Support Components? I'll likely have the same company that installed my Aubern install all of this at the same time. Thanks, |
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#4
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Are you running a manual or auto trans?
Have you tried looking for a used rear already setup? Are you doing any of the work yourself and what area are you located in? |
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#5
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Thanks, I should have mentioned TH400 Transmission, I'm in SE Michigan, and I can do U Joints of course and Driveshaft, but when it comes to working inside the pumpkin, I'll have the same company that put in my Aubern do that. I'd just like to bring the parts I choose to them.
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#6
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No I have not tried looking for anything used.
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#7
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Quote:
Eric
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"Everybody has a plan until they get punched in the mouth" noted philosopher Mike Tyson Life begins at the end of your comfort zone. “The mind, once stretched by a new idea, never returns to its original dimensions.” |
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#8
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You will tear that 10 bolt posi up with slicks.
I broke 9" Trac Locks and Detroit Posi units with a 455 that was just a little more powerful than yours. Overbuild your rear end. 9" maybe. Those lightweight Dana 60s are a good choice these days. Look closer to stock too. |
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#9
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Some opinions on 8.2 rear end upgrades in the link below, most would recommend replacing it with something stronger especially now that you’re looking to dig in and spend money on strengthening your 8.2:
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=871811 Once you realize that you’re going to be 2k+ into your 8.2 you might regret not putting those funds towards another stronger rear end. Just because you have a new posi unit in your 8.2 doesn’t mean you need to continue using it. The 8.2 has a weak housing with poor pinion support. The corporate 10-bolt 8.5 is almost as strong as a 12-bolt and well-worth considering. Money spent on the 8.2 is money wasted unless it’s for a concourse restoration in my opinion.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#10
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When I ran Top Stock in the old NMCA John McWhirter, one of the original Comp Cams owners) had a 66 tripower Olds 442 stick car that had been a drag car it's whole life. It was usually faster than the rest of us in the class but he often broke the 8.2 with slicks and a 4 speed, so you had a shot of winning class if you drew him!
I agree with Bart a 8.5 10 bolt or a 12 bolt is a good start and good U joints and driveshaft. FWIW my 78 TA has a 8.5 10 bolt that has run a lot of passes in the 11s and even high 10s with slicks and Eaton Posi and stock 28 spline axles. Lakewood U joints and a rebalanced stock driveshaft. It now has a 30 spline posi and Moser 30 splines. My MW 3.5" drive shaft in my IA/Camaro is a very nice piece but you have to measure the way they want you to.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune [email protected] 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs 1964 Corvette Coupe 327 4 speed |
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#11
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If I were you I'd put a 12 bolt in there with some steel axles. The cast iron axles and the 10 bolt rear are the weak link. If this is just a street car you should be OK as is but if you start racing it regular at the track then you may find out how much the 10 bolt and cast iron axles will take.
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Tim Corcoran |
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#12
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Get a 9", Dana 60, or 12 bolt. Your 10 bolt will have a short life with 600 ft lbs
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Chris D 69 GTO Liberty Blue/dark blue T400, 9" w 3.50s, 3905lbs 461, 850 Holley, T2, KRE 310s, Comp HR 236/242D .572/.594L, RA manifolds, 11.53@114, 1.55/60 The spare: 467, 850 Holley, T2, Edelbrock Dport 310cfm w RA manifolds, Howard HFT 245/251D .561/.594L, 11.59@ 114, 1.57/ 60' |
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#13
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Hey everyone, thank you for the advice - I see in the thread linked there was a huge discussion on this already - I didn't mean to confuse things, I'll keep reading that also. I'm trying to find a source for the complete 12 bolt "package" and keep it under say $3K or so if possible, if anyone has advice. Thanks again!
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#14
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I am in SE Michigan and was going to take my race car to Drive Train Specialists in Warren for a new driveshaft and replace my pinion yoke to 1350. I was told that their custom drive shafts are made by CCI Drive line.
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#15
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Would The Auburn posse that fits in my 8.2 work on a 10 inch? I just don’t know if the ring and pinion would fit? Maybe obviously not?
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#16
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Nothing inside your 8.2 will work inside another upgrade rear axle unit , except if you were to find a Nodular Iron 8.2.
But that's a small step as far as upgrade , and you'll overspend entirely on bang for buck. If you buy anyone's used equipment - not being highly versed on rear assemblies - you might get burned on stuff that has already been beaten up in the past. Lot of smooth talking racers out there trying to sell beat up stuff to newbies. I think you are going to want more gear ratio also. Probably a better torque convertor Will you be racing 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile - or both ? Keep your 8.2 3.36 in case racing gets too expensive (breaking stuff / more upgrades / project creep) and you decide to go back to street driving only. |
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#17
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I appreciate the advice, thank you everybody. I am looking at the suggested vendors for a 12 bolt assembly, and I will have my local gear company that did my Posi install it. I can’t seem to find an 8.5 new assembly, only 12 bolt But again, thank you. I guess everybody has to start learning somewhere. By the way, I definitely have been running the quarter-mile. Thanks again.
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#18
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Quote:
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#19
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Funny, you mention that, because I have done that, and see a very significant price difference! Knowing what I’m trying to accomplish, do you think the strength of that set up is comparable to a 8.5, or a 12 bolt?
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#20
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