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#1
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About 15 years ago I replaced all the shot rubber bushings in the car with poly bushings. Of course it transformed the way the car went and rode. But after a few rounds of replacing wallered out poly bushings I'm thinking if I could just find some decent rubber bushings that weren't too soft and were decently made I'd just go back to that. But, of course, this seems to be an area where the only thing available is lowest cost junk. Anyone know what's good and what to avoid? Mevotech is generally held to be better than Moog these days, right?
Also, lower control arm bushings.. I've been too scared to look. But I guess it's not too bad if I bust the ball joint loose first (nut on) and then put a jack under the pivot and jack down until the spring falls out, right? 1971 bird. Engine in. Sam
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-- Sam Agnew Where you come from is gone; where you thought you were going to, weren't never there; and where you are ain't no good unless you can get away from it. Ministry - Jesus Built My Hotrod |
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#2
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For control arms, front eye rear spring perch, and bump stops I used stock replacement, info I read that's the way to go for a street car, body bushings, sway bars and end links I went poly.
Been about 10 years I don't remember the brand was probably moog.
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78 T/A 4SPEED, Original paint, match #’s, stock original bottom end, milled 6x-4s, HE268H cam,17058263 Q-jet/ 72 jets, CH secondary rods, RA Manifolds, poly body bushings, Moroso SFCs, 3rd and last owner since ‘99, as long as I'm alive. 79 Parisienne originally 305 2bbl now 87 350 tbi swap, 193 heads, performer, Q-jet, headers 77 t/a sold 85 Monte Carlo SS sold 83 Mustang GT sold |
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#3
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If there is somebody that you know locally that has a car using delrin bushings, try to go for a ride, or even better, drive it. You may be pleasantly surprised on how they perform and what kind of ride quality they have.
It's been my experience that the most vocal critics of ride quality relating to delrin bushings in the control arms come from people that have never actually driven a car with them. Because they articulate freely, they allow the shock to control the suspension better. This takes some wheel rate out of the system, softening the whole setup a bit. A quality delrin bushing that is designed with a good stainless steel sleeve and an ample amount of delrin will not squeak or rattle. You also won't be replacing them again in 15 years. Service as necessary and go. Additionally, because all deflection from the bushings is gone, you minimize the amount of alignment change that occurs in real world operation. This improves tractability and predictability in all handling and driving situations. Global West or Ridetech bushings would be my recommendation should you decide to go that route. I do not currently have a rubber bushing recommendation. It's all outsourced to the cheapest bidder these days and quality has been suspect for a while.
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-Jason 1969 Pontiac Firebird |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to JLMounce For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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I have the Global West front and rear Delran bushings in my '68 Firebird. I also have their heavy front sway bar and polyurethane body bushings installed along with new front and rear Eaton springs. Shocks are Bilstein gas filled. The car handles very well especially on winding roads.
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#5
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Also, lower control arm bushings.. I've been too scared to look. But I guess it's not too bad if I bust the ball joint loose first (nut on) and then put a jack under the pivot and jack down until the spring falls out, right?
Exactly. but take a couple of ratchet straps and use one to keep the spring with the car so to speak. You can use the other one around the control arm for a back up as you lower it.. It actually is pretty easy using the weight of the car to remove the spring. Watch your fingers. The other thing is having your vehicle blocked up and supported so you have the room for the jack to operate in lowering the control arm.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 3:90 gear. 28" slick. Best so far 9.95@135 mph. 1.39 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exhaust 950 Quickfuel. |
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#6
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Delrin is the way to go.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#7
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I just ordered Moog rubber bushings to replace the delrin in my eBay control arms, haven’t installed them but didn’t like the looks of cheapo “delrin” so decided to go with rubber.
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#8
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Get the real Delrin bushings from Global West...you won't be sorry.
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#9
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I've never had a car with Delrin bushings but I've machined quite a bit of it, very tough and quite slippery. Can't imagine it ever squeaking.
Not long ago I machined a front steering column bushing out of it to replace the sloppy OEM bearing.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
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#10
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I wanna know how he "wallered out" multiple sets of Polyurethane bushings.
Something ain't right, there. |
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#11
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Rubber, like many things we eat is all GMO. the hybrid rubber trees are grown and " sap" stripped at a very fast pace. Many tires crack now at a young age. The quality of the standard repop frame bushing is Not good, IMHO..
Want ride? Try Del a lum from Global west in your moving parts. A ride will sell you.
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" Long may we DRIVE !" |
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#12
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Quote:
Sam
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-- Sam Agnew Where you come from is gone; where you thought you were going to, weren't never there; and where you are ain't no good unless you can get away from it. Ministry - Jesus Built My Hotrod |
| The Following User Says Thank You to glhs#116 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#13
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Del a Lum " Bearings" in stock upper control arms.
6 sided, Grease-able. The suspension actually Moves.. I run a offset mounting rod for more caster.
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" Long may we DRIVE !" |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Formulabruce For This Useful Post: | ||
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