[NeighborsComplaint]

I have a similar setup (455/6x-8 heads/231-242 Crane cam/HEI w MSD/headers/Pro-Comp dual plane/Qjet. It will idle just fine at 750 RPM in gear.

Prior to running the Qjet, I had installed a rebuilt 800 Holley Qjet to try out. I eyeballed the idle speed screw and started it. The idle was so low I jumped out of the driver's seat to raise it. The idle was so slow and lopey that the engine was almost silent between exaggerated "barumphs" and just kept on idling around 250 RPM. I stood back a moment waiting for it to stall and it just kept running. Fearing a low/no oil pressure condition at such a low idle, I turned it up 700 RPM and it was perfectly happy at that speed too.

[HWYSTR455]

Make sure the choke and fast idle backs off.


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[77 TRASHCAN]

Originally Posted by steve25

If your going to try and reuse that cam by breaking in new lifters on it then don’t bother buying and using any moly type lube because the lobes have no pours any more to hold onto moly lube with.

Just get a greased based cam break in lube.

Good point, Steve.
The moly lube I've used is Moroso moly paste. It seemed like a heavy grease with moly in it....couldn't hurt anything, apply sparingly.

[ANDYA]

This past summer I broke in a Mellling 068 with Crower lifters. I used the Driven GP-1 assembly gel . This stuff was unbelievable. Stays where you put it and never drips off like other brands. As a test I coated a lobe on a used cam I have in the basement and left it that way for months. Eventually I wiped off the lobe and put the cam back in storage. Absolutely nothing dripped off. Broke the cam in with 1.65 rockers and inner springs removed. Used Penn Grade 30 wt break in oil and a bottle of GM EOS. Break in went perfect and I have since put about 500 miles on the motor.

[HWYSTR455]

The Torco stuff is kind of a gel, but almost all have some type of 'carrier' which has no impact on the properties of the lube.

The newer stuff sticks like anything in the past comes even close to. It's that much better. You don't have to glob it on, a very thin coat and done. That's why it comes in smaller amount packaging.

Moly can dry up, and it doesn't embed as well as the newer stuff. I can 'wipe off' easily.

The newer survives much longer during startups, as well as while turning the engine over by hand when adjusting rockers for first time.

Use specifically design engine assembly lube and don't look back. It's that easy.


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[Formulas]

Again .. You can lead a horse to water... Goes on like paint dries doesnt fall off with a little oil splash ... i even coated my pistons, bottom of the cylinders under ring travel fogged where rings ride coated all cam lobes, main,rod,cam bearings, hit lifter bores with 842

I was actuall very suprized with no smoke at all at first run no detectable blowby with PCV plugged

Used 842 in another 2 engines nothing negative to report they are still together

2 to 3 engines one can

[P@blo]

Originally Posted by Formulas

Again .. You can lead a horse to water... Goes on like paint dries doesnt fall off with a little oil splash ... i even coated my pistons, bottom of the cylinders under ring travel fogged where rings ride coated all cam lobes, main,rod,cam bearings, hit lifter bores with 842

I was actuall very suprized with no smoke at all at first run no detectable blowby with PCV plugged

Used 842 in another 2 engines nothing negative to report they are still together

2 to 3 engines one can

When I worked in maintenance we used cases of this stuff. High load areas to be specific. Did you use this on the cam and lifters as well?

Many ways to skin a cat so thanks for sharing Formula.

[Formulas]

I polished cam journals sprayed cam with carb or brake cleaner taped off polished journals then generous 842 coat remainder of camshaft, 842 applied to coarse parkerization magnifies its ability to stay put for as long as possible ... i did not coat bottom of lifters with 842 and i still used light coating of typical moly base paste

Some pics with 842 on piston and engine bearings, cylinder wall pic was focused on wrist pin# not so much on cylinder

My first 842 exposure was also in aircraft world B-2 flight test, i have mentioned 842 in the past on this site but i think most people only have faith in coatings they send off for and pay hundreds of dollars for and cant fathom any other alternatives

Even if eventually 842 exits its intended work area it is there when you need it most

[Mr Twister]

Originally Posted by Formulas

I polished cam journals sprayed cam with carb or brake cleaner taped off polished journals then generous 842 coat remainder of camshaft, 842 applied to coarse parkerization magnifies its ability to stay put for as long as possible ... i did not coat bottom of lifters with 842 and i still used light coating of typical moly base paste

Some pics with 842 on piston and engine bearings, cylinder wall pic was focused on wrist pin# not so much on cylinder

My first 842 exposure was also in aircraft world B-2 flight test, i have mentioned 842 in the past on this site but i think most people only have faith in coatings they send off for and pay hundreds of dollars for and cant fathom any other alternatives

Even if eventually 842 exits its intended work area it is there when you need it most

Thanks, sounds good!

[P@blo]

Great info Formulas! I failed to connect the dots on this one but that's on me.

[HWYSTR455]

Out of curiosity, how long does 842 last in use for say something like window tracks?


.

[MarkS57]

Originally Posted by ANDYA

This past summer I broke in a Mellling 068 with Crower lifters. I used the Driven GP-1 assembly gel . This stuff was unbelievable. Stays where you put it and never drips off like other brands. As a test I coated a lobe on a used cam I have in the basement and left it that way for months. Eventually I wiped off the lobe and put the cam back in storage. Absolutely nothing dripped off. Broke the cam in with 1.65 rockers and inner springs removed. Used Penn Grade 30 wt break in oil and a bottle of GM EOS. Break in went perfect and I have since put about 500 miles on the motor.

I am also fan of Driven products. Last 2 HFT cam swaps I did I used the Driven assembly grease product.