[HWYSTR455]

I have a NOS driver's side manual regulator, and a repop passenger regulator.

The NOS driver's side regulator doesn't have the captured nuts on it, and refuse to use rivets.

The repop passenger side long-rail rollers are a touch larger than the original one, and won't slide into the rail.

Before I knee-jerk and buy a repop set, like to hear others' opinion(s) and recommendations.

Which regulators are the currently best available?



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[Scarebird]

What about using nutserts on the NOS piece?

[HWYSTR455]

I could, it's 1/4-20, but still would have to grab a passenger side one.

Those bolts are under constant stress too, not sure how long they would last. I have steel nut-serts, but honestly, if I was going to do something like that I would just use a nut. There's no adjustment requirement so not biggie really.

It's still a little sloppy at the X point too, not sure if that would be a difference or not. Or I should say it's more free-moving than the repop one.

Who makes repop ones now? Does Goodmark, AMD, etc make those? Or are they all the same?


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[HWYSTR455]

Just checked, yeah I got the passenger regulator from Ames.

Interestingly enough, they do make replacement rollers for the regulator:

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/52001/

Wonder how those mount, the ones on there are stamped/mushroomed onto the regulator arm. And drilling it out might wobb the hole and make it sloppy.

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[VCho455]

I replaced the rollers on my 67 Suburban daily driver some 50k miles ago and have been satisfied with the results. (Uses the same rollers as 64-67 A-bodies) With the exception of one roller which locked up and flat spotted on me. I don't know if I forgot to grease it when I installed it or if I did something wrong during the installation. (Too much BFH?) But I replaced that one again last fall and all is well now.

It's easier to replace them with a helper to hold the regulator while installing the rivet. The new rivets seem to deform enough to lock the roller tight in place.

[HWYSTR455]

You just beat on it? With a punch or drift? Explain how that's done please.

I guess one could grind the head off and not have to drill, but really, you shouldn't have to do that with a new regulator.

I pitched the ones that came out of the car, they were toast. Every joint was sloppy and the teeth on the 'gears' were all rounded. The housings were spread at the handle post too.

Personally, I would like to buy a repop that actually works, that's what I'm after. I'm sure some have enough experience with what's available to be able to advise.

Maybe this should be moved to the Body Shop section?



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[VCho455]

To start I put the regulator arm in vice clamping next to the roller. Then I clearly mark the side of the regulator arm the roller is on. (Very important unless you have extra rollers you want to use up). I then drilled through the rivet with about a 1/8” pilot bit. Then I drilled the end of the rivet with a larger bit that was just under the size of the rivet. I only drilled down just barely below the depth of the regulator arm so I wouldn’t damage the hole in the arm. Then I used a punch to punch the rivet out of the arm.

For the installation I found a punch that was the same size as the rivet in the roller. I clamped the punch in the vice to hold it vertically. I Inserted the new roller (Greased up) in the regulator arm in the correct direction. This is where your trusty sidekick comes in as they hold the regulator arm, so the rivet is resting on the punch in the vice, roller side down. Then using a punch slightly larger than the rivet diameter you pound the rivet flat.

Unfortunately I don’t have any good photos of the installation process but this crude drawing might help. Last photo is some removed rollers showing the rivet shape.

[VCho455]

And here the finished product. For some reason I couldn't attach it to the previous post?

[HWYSTR455]

That one pic of the roller looks like it's hollow and threaded?


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[VCho455]

That photo is one I found on the interweb. It was the only one that I could load here. There is a hole drilled in the one end to make mushrooming the end easier without a rivet die. No threads inside.

There more photos here.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/123530618334

Rebuilding the old regulators was the only option for me. No one makes reproductions for the rear doors on 67-72 Suburbans. The factory rollers were riveted on the 67-72 trucks. Fortunately they use the same rollers as the 64-67 A-bodies otherwise I would have had to make my own.

Here is a video showing the replacement of the rollers on a 55-57 Chevy. Similar process with the exception that apparently the rivet on those cars is not recessed below the outside of the nylon roller wheel so he can use the vice to finish the mushrooming of the rivet without damaging the roller. I didn't need to use a chisel on the rivets. I did use a larger hammer so the rivet would mushroom with only 2 or 3 taps.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...cxExRPKFvQGeEh

[HWYSTR455]

I guess it is an option, I'm stuck with the one repop regulator anyway, so even if I destroy it there's no loss.

The roller is just a hair too large to slide in the track, was thinking I could even sand it down maybe.

Thankfully it's the passenger side regulator, which isn't subjected to as much use/abuse as the driver window.

The NOS regulator I have for the driver's side, the pivot point for the roller arm is sloppy, but maybe it's supposed to be like that? I see no damage anywhere, and know that thing sat on my shelf for like 20-something years. I guess the rollers on the glass and the tracks will manage any sloppiness in the regulator?

I don't think bolting it to the door is a big issue either, maybe I should just try it and see.

Still think there's a repop out there that works, maybe it's hit or miss? I hear some having good results with the repops, and some not. Not sure if it's just noise or they have having actual install issues or not.


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[VCho455]

Good luck to you no matter which way you go. I still have yet to dive into the ones in my 72. Fingers crossed they are still serviceable.

[HWYSTR455]

Thank you, will update once I figure things out.

So confirmed the one repop I have is a Golden Star. Wonder if it's a rebrand or if they make them?

Here are suppliers that offer regulators, not sure which manufacture them and which rebrand them, but some I suspect are obviously making them:

Golden Star
AMD
OER
GoodMark
Classic Industries

Anyone have experience with these? Anyone know which of these actually manufacture them?

I'm tempted to grab an AMD one to see what it's like, pretty sure they make them.


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[HWYSTR455]

Got the OER regulator, it is different than the Golden Star, but has the same size rollers in the .964-.968" range.

I ordered the replacement rollers which state they are 15/16", which is .937 .

Will see when they come in what the true size is, but looks like I will be swapping rollers onto the Golden Star regulator.

Can anyone measure the long track that attaches to the glass for comparison?

Mine for certain is an OE, original to the car, and measures at .947-.949 .

EDIT: That's from side to side, Drivers/Passengers sides.

[HWYSTR455]

Here's measurements for the GM NOS driver regulator, and the Golden Star repop passenger regulator.



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[HWYSTR455]

Update:

The replacement rollers from our host came in, and they measure .949 -.950 . They slide into the channel, but are very tight, and doubt it will actually 'roll'.

So they are not 15/16".

I was looking at the rollers on that link VCho455 provided, and those rollers are listed as 11/16" OD, or .687 . Wondering if those would work, yes, smaller, but weight of the glass will keep the roller at the bottom of the channel, just need to be sure it won't actually hop out of the channel.

Just to make sure it's not some anomaly with the channels I have, I ordered some used ones to compare. I doubt they are different, because the ones as I mentioned before I know are born to this car OE, and the NOS regulator fit just fine. But still figured I'd take a shot at it, since they were fairly inexpensive.

Still on the wall of where to go with this, hoping others may chime in. I can't be the only person that's ever run across this...


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[HWYSTR455]

At a loss here.

The OE track I bought off eGay came in, I measured it, and it's the same width as mine.

The replacement rollers and neither of the regulators I have will fit into the track.

No way I am the only one having this issue, it's clear the repops are not correct.

Anyone have any suggestions?


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[HWYSTR455]

So after scouring eGay listings of window regulator roller, many of which don't list the O.D. of the roller, I found one that is actually the correct size of .935 .

MidWestMusclecarSpeciaties is the seller:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192618011826

The Golden Star regulator I received from our host appears to ne of better quality than the OER one I purchased, so I'm going to replace the rollers on the Golden Star ones.

The rollers are expected to be delivered Monday, and will post additional info once I look over them.

All other window parts for the door that are available appear to work correctly, but no window sash are available repop. Sure would be nice if some repopped them in a slightly wider size to allow them to work with the repop regulators' roller size, and doubt that would cause issues with OE/NOS regulators.


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[HWYSTR455]

The MidWestMusclecarSpeciaties rollers came in, aaaaannd, the measure .945 . It's tight but it does fit the sash. It's not .935 as advertised, but it will work, kinda.

Not sure how much it will actually 'roll' in the track, but it does slide 'ok'.

I'm going to message the eGay seller, but not sure what good that will do. I may just end up using them, will see.

This really shouldn't be this difficult.


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[HWYSTR455]

The MidWestMusclecarSpeciaties rollers came in, aaaaannd, they measure .945 . It's tight but it does fit the sash. It's not .935 as advertised, but it will work, kinda.

Not sure how much it will actually 'roll' in the track, but it does slide 'ok'.

I'm going to message the eGay seller, but not sure what good that will do. I may just end up using them, will see.

This really shouldn't be this difficult.


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