[steve]

Maybe so but from what I understand there is only one way to adjust it. I have repeated that adjustment several times with no change. I did buy a replacement from Amazon and will swap it out when it arrives.

[HWYSTR455]

It has to be in the initial position, then just somewhat slowly press pedal to floor and let up slowly.

But it certainly has to be in the proper position before you start, with the tab bent for initial position/adjustment.

You can't just push it to the floor by hand over and over expecting it to change. Or even with you're foot, you pretty much get one shot at it. If you question the adjustment, you have to reset the switch before you try again.

Not sure that was clearly stated before.

.

[steve]

Yes, of course, that’s the way it’s done. In fact it’s so simple that it would be hard to do it wrong in my opinion. My replacement switch is actually due to arrive today. I’ll be able to compare the new one to what’s in the car soon. I’ll post a pic of what I get from Amazon.

[steve]

Ok so this is what I got. Purchased from the link I posted. Looks like junk to me. I feel no ratcheting or hear any clicking in the movement. There is no tab to push so that it will set to the initial position. It won’t even travel the full length of the slot. Won’t even click into place when it hits the end of the travel. It just springs back and forth with a slight metal rubbing sound.

[johnta1]

That looks like it should.
Install the switch and then push pedal to floor.
Done.

There is no 'ratcheting'. The switch comes in the 'unadjusted' position.
If you try to ratchet it or see how far it will move you will defeat the adjustment mechanism.

[steve]

Originally Posted by johnta1

That looks like it should.
Install the switch and then push pedal to floor.
Done.

There is no 'ratcheting'. The switch comes in the 'unadjusted' position.
If you try to ratchet it or see how far it will move you will defeat the adjustment mechanism.

Really it only travels from the halfway position shown in the one photo to the point where I have pushed it in the one with my hand and then snaps back to center. No other action at all. It appears it would just be an on/off switch. There is no initial setting.

The one in the car now will travel the full length of the slot.

[steve]

The new one on the right will not travel to the position of the older one on the left.

In fact I can also see now what is wrong with the old one. The small plastic tab on the white slider won’t keep the switch from going all the way forward anymore. It is constantly slipping back into the initial setting mode.

[steve]

I was able to “modify” the old one to work as intended. Only took 5 minutes now that I see what was wrong with it. I indented the end of the metal housing where the red circle is with a punch and hammer to catch the little tab when it snaps back. Then I had to use a utility knife to carve out the plastic on the slider where the blue line is to keep it from rubbing on the indented metal. It now is able to be pushed into the initial setting mode and won’t snap back into that position after the gas is released. And YES after it is pushed into the initial setting you can hear the soft ratcheting/clicking noise as it takes the final setting.

If someone can tell me how this new brown one can be pushed into the initial setting mode I’ll try it in the car to see if it also works but I’m betting the old OE stuff will be better even if modified.

[Kenth]

1. To reset the new switch you need to pinch the slider and pull it out as far as it comes. (Blue arrows).
2. Then push the slider in until it gets close to the mark, NOT further. (Red arrows).
3. Mount the switch in the pedal bracket, and i will self adjust at the first WOT.

Jobs done!

[steve]

Originally Posted by Kenth

1. To reset the new switch you need to pinch the slider and pull it out as far as it comes. (Blue arrows).
2. Then push the slider in until it gets close to the mark, NOT further. (Red arrows).
3. Mount the switch in the pedal bracket, and i will self adjust at the first WOT.

Jobs done!

Thanks for the help but no amount of pinching will allow the slider to move into the position shown in your pic with the blue arrows, and on this unit there is no triangular mark on the metal housing as in your pic with the red arrows.

[HWYSTR455]

Go back to post #24, and read captions on pics.


.

[steve]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Go back to post #24, and read captions on pics.


.

Not sure what you mean. The old kickdown I have functions like those pictures. The new one I have does not. What are you trying to tell me ?
Are you seeing the difference between them in the pic I posted ?

[HWYSTR455]

As I was saying before, if you move the switch out of the initial adjustment setting, you have to reset it. You should have just installed it as it arrived.

That's what I was trying to explain in post #42. Once you started ratcheting it by hand, it needs to be reset.

The switch all the way back is why it only kicks down in the full WOT position.

Don't overthink it, reset it, and install it. Then depress the pedal to set it.



.

[steve]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

As I was saying before, if you move the switch out of the initial adjustment setting, you have to reset it. You should have just installed it as it arrived.

That's what I was trying to explain in post #42. Once you started ratcheting it by hand, it needs to be reset.

The switch all the way back is why it only kicks down in the full WOT position.

Don't overthink it, reset it, and install it. Then depress the pedal to set it.



.

You have not read my posts. The new brown switch from Amazon will not go into an initial setting like the one that Shurkey posted pictures of. (And the one I removed from my car that was broken). If fact it will not travel to that end of the slot at all with any attempt. I would be more than happy to ship this switch to anyone who thinks they know how to set it and then you can demonstrate how for the thread.

[HWYSTR455]

Well, on the original one, if it's worn out, the 'washboard' portion of the switch inside is probably worn out too. I wouldn't bother trying to 'fix' the switch itself.

As for the new one, I guess it's possible it DNF out of box. And not sure it need to go all the way to the end of travel to be reset, it's been a solid 10+ years since I've dealt with one.

Are you saying it won't travel to the end of the range in either direction?


.

[steve]

For final clarification of the issue with the new kickdown I will place these pics in one post. These switches are not identical in their function.

The first pic shows that on the new one there is no tab that needs to be depressed to force the switch into an initial setting.

The second pic shows how far to the left the switch will travel. It will go no further with any attempt short of possibly breaking the unit.

The third picture compares the two switches showing how the original switch will go into initial setting mode when the tab is depressed.

Like I said it’s like the new brown switch is simply on/off and has no provision for an initial setting for pedal travel.

If someone knows how to set this new style switch for an initial setting please post. No it will not slide into an initial setting by pinching the plastic slider.

EDIT. The washboard function of the old switch is intact and non existent on the new switch an no the brown slider will not reach the end travel of either side of the slot.

[HWYSTR455]

Ok, in the rest position, it doesn't need to go all the way to the end of the travel slot. And yes, it does appear to be 'different' than the original.

The 'adjustment' happens internally with the contact plate and 'washboard'. It's not relevant to the rest position of where the actuating post is.

So the new one you have, and this is from memory, to reset it, you slide it to the end of travel towards the firewall, and quickly release it so it pops back to the rested position.

Hopefully someone else can confirm that, but I somehow recall that being the procedure.

Then you do the WOT set.


.

[steve]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Ok, in the rest position, it doesn't need to go all the way to the end of the travel slot. And yes, it does appear to be 'different' than the original.

The 'adjustment' happens internally with the contact plate and 'washboard'. It's not relevant to the rest position of where the actuating post is.

So the new one you have, and this is from memory, to reset it, you slide it to the end of travel towards the firewall, and quickly release it so it pops back to the rested position.

Hopefully someone else can confirm that, but I somehow recall that being the procedure.

Then you do the WOT set.


.

This switch will not “slide” toward the firewall. It will ONLY push forward with pedal travel and then spring back to center.

I respectfully disagree. I just did a search for th400 kickdown switches and there are many out there that look identical to what I just purchased but I have found several that claim to be new old stock that have the small tab on the slider. I believe the ones being sold new are not the same part number and do not function like the OE equipment was intended.

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by steve

This switch will not “slide” toward the firewall. It will ONLY push forward with pedal travel and then spring back to center.

Push forward then, towards the firewall. Same thing or am I missing something? Or is the F-Body ones reverse direction from the A-body one? Not recalling at the moment.

Spring back to 'center' is the at-rest position when installed, correct? It doesn't prevent the pedal to return fully does it?




.

[steve]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Push forward then, towards the firewall. Same thing or am I missing something? Or is the F-Body ones reverse direction from the A-body one? Not recalling at the moment.

Spring back to 'center' is the at-rest position when installed, correct? It doesn't prevent the pedal to return fully does it?




.

You’re not understanding me. It won’t move toward to firewall from the center position at all. So it won’t take an initial setting. The pedal arm only contacts the switch at almost full travel. I think im done explaining. I am going to purchase a NOS switch (not cheap) to have one in my parts bin. They are obviously not making the correct ones anymore. Thanks to everyone who has tried to help on this thread. I think I have all the answers I need now !