[tmataraza]

Hey guys, me again. I have been dealing with a voltage regulator problem on the 66 catalina. I put in a cheap oil pressure, engine temp, battery voltage gauge pack I was given for christmas because all the car has are the idiot lights. I found out that when driving on the freeway, the battery voltage was hitting 18v if not more (my gauge only goes that high). I replaced the alternator last summer, so I immediately went to Autozone and got a voltage regulator. The first one did nothing. Just 12.4 volts on the battery running at all RPMs. I also had the car not start because of dead battery after a test drive. Ive since been through 3 voltage regulators, two from autozone, one from rock auto. None are putting more than 12.5v on the battery at all RPMs. I took the Alternator to Autozone and they tested it and its good. I believe that to be trustworthy because if I put my old regulator back on, im getting 13v at idle and more than 16v at higher RPM.

Really confused on what the issue is. My old regulator does not have a part number on it to match up to anything. Ideas? Thanks for the help!

[grandam1979]

Try a solid state regulator if you haven’t yet. I had the gen light coming on at idol had a new nos reg on it when I went to the solid state reg problem went away. My2¢

[george kujanski]

Hi voltage may be due to a bad ground on the regulator body. You can add a wire from the regulator metal to the battery negative to check if it improves.

George

[tmataraza]

Interesting thought. The regulator is mounted to the firewall and the metal is clean there, but I could use a wire to test that theory. Am I thinking the proper location in the picture attached?

[george kujanski]

Yep, that would be a good spot. Also make sure the resistors underneath the regulator are not cracked or broken, and no corrosion.

George

[tmataraza]

That's been my problem! Every regulator I get doesnt come with the resistors on the bottom! I thought it was newer model didnt need them or they were inside maybe, but absolutely NONE of the 4 I've gotten have had them. They all "work with the car" but none of them did.

We will see what the VR716 looks like when it arrives. Thanks again!

[tmataraza]

UHG. Im so tired of this. The voltage regulator from autozone arrived today, and despite the picture being the store image attached, the box and receipt being labeled VR716, the regulator sent is nothing of what was pictured. Im so fed up with this!

[george kujanski]

Apparently it's a "modern" version of the original style, probably modified with electronics.

Does it work?

George

[gto4ben]

Transpo D9212 is indeed electronic and replaces 1119515. It won't work since it relies on the #2 terminal to turn on. I attached a schematic of some older discrete versions of this regulator.

I feel your frustration. Autozone appears to be a lost cause. I had no trouble finding an electronic Wells VR716 on eBay. This one was the cheapest mechanical version.

[stevep]

You have to use a 1963-1968 big American Pontiac regulator with 3 terminals. If you use a 4 terminal regulator it will not charge

[tmataraza]

Originally Posted by gto4ben

Transpo D9212 is indeed electronic and replaces 1119515. It won't work since it relies on the #2 terminal to turn on. I attached a schematic of some older discrete versions of this regulator.

I feel your frustration. Autozone appears to be a lost cause. I had no trouble finding an electronic Wells VR716 on eBay. This one was the cheapest mechanical version.

Thanks for the links. I have a D633 coming from rock auto due Wednesday. If that fails, I will try the links you provided. Never dreamed coming up with the correct part would be such a nightmare. The VR716 did not work and came as a 4 prong. No resistors on the back, like I showed in my last post.

[stellar]

The D633 should work for you. If push comes to shove, you could use an early Chrysler regulator.

[tmataraza]

Originally Posted by stellar

The D633 should work for you. If push comes to shove, you could use an early Chrysler regulator.

D633 DID NOT WORK! I hooked up the wires to F and 3 just like my old one, and im getting 12.4v on the battery while running. This one DOES have the resistors on the back like my old one. Not sure what is wrong now. Irritating.

[gto4ben]

Are you getting 12V at the #3 terminal when the ignition switch is in the run position?

[tmataraza]

I honestly have not checked because since I don't have a manual (yet) I didn't know which wire was the 12v positive. But when my old voltage regulator is plugged in, I'm getting 13v at the battery, so it wiring should not be the issue. the issue is over 35mph the voltage skyrockets to 18v

[tmataraza]

I validated this morning that the two wires going to the regulator are indeed giving me 12v the red on #3 and black on F gave me +12.1v

[gto4ben]

Those voltages do not appear correct. If you look at the schematic in post #14, there is a resistor between terminals #3 and F. It should drop the voltage if there is a connection to the alternator. This is the same for both the 1115911 and 1115915 regulators when the ignition switch is in the run position. I did a quick check on my GTO to show this is the case (voltages lower at terminal F and at alternator F). Perhaps your connector to the regulator has a break or the connector to the 10DN alternator has a break. Typically due to the heat and age, I suspect the alternator connector or terminal.

You may be chasing two problems. The original regulator causing the 18V and a connection break when you tried replacing the regulator.

[tmataraza]

Thanks Man. So I compared both regulators. They are indeed different. I found that the old VR has prongs 3 and 4 connected to each other and then a resistor connecting them to F on the bottom but the new VR (D633) is different. It has no prongs connected together except F and 4 via the resistor.

I connected my wires to F and 4 on the VR, and now I have 14.7v on the battery when running at idle. I am not sure what it will do at higher RPM yet. Im still concerned that 14.7 is too high, but I feel like its steps in the right direction. Also, this thing was $75, and I might order the ebay part posted before simply to save money. What a learning curve!

[george kujanski]

How did you connect your dash voltmeter? I also assume you are using a D10 type Delco alt using external regulator, right?

Did your car previously use an ammeter on the dash? If not did it have a charge/ battery idiot light?

George

[tmataraza]

Originally Posted by george kujanski

How did you connect your dash voltmeter? I also assume you are using a D10 type Delco alt using external regulator, right?

Did your car previously use an ammeter on the dash? If not did it have a charge/ battery idiot light?

George

Thanks for the response. I just have a + and - line directly the battery because I was having issues with the alternator last year and replaced it. I do have the ammeter in the dash, but the needle just bounced all the time, so I disconnected it and put in the actual volt gauge. Until this month, I never had the car above 30mph due to still having bias ply tires. I finally got them replaced and took the car to 60 on the freeway, which is where I learned the voltage on the battery went to 18v. I began with the VR replacement saga and now today with the D633, Im getting 14.7v while idling after seeing that the VR was built differently