[66_Cat_Jon]

All my machine work is done and very shortly I will have enough parts to start bolting the short block together. The very first thing to do I understand is to give the block a wash. Any advice on the process or cleaners to use for this? Keep in mind that I'll be doing this in my suburban residential garage and driveway. Second, the machinist left the camshaft large freeze plug out because he says it makes it easier to install the cam and knock the plug in after. So is Permatex #2 Form A Gasket a good sealant for this freeze plug or would something else be better? Thanks for any guidance.

[4dblnkldude]

I wash it with all temp cheer and a new dust brush, blow it off, then wipe the bores and crank Journal with WD-40 and keep wiping and wiping until the wypalls come out perfectly white. When I'm ready to assemble I turn on the fan in the ac system, clean the entire garage, then I'll wet the floor. I use indian head shellac sealer on freeze plugs, never heard of putting in the cam one in after. I'm not a pro but.....almost a dozen mostly ponchos. .

[Formulabruce]

Oil journal brush would be handy for this.

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by 66_Cat_Jon

The very first thing to do I understand is to give the block a wash. Any advice on the process or cleaners to use for this?

First step: Pressure washer with your choice of detergent to clean the block and heads, crankshaft, intake manifold...all the "big" parts. Laundry detergent works well. Simple Green or Castrol Purple or similar liquid does good in a pressure washer. Use the pressure washer to blow through ALL the oil gallery drillings--which means you're going to REMOVE ALL THE OIL GALLERY PLUGS THE MACHINIST INSTALLED BUT SHOULDN'T HAVE. Same for the oil holes in the crankshaft.

Second step: HOT water, and your favorite detergent. Cylinder bores, bearing saddles, EVERY part that goes in the engine including stuff you take out of sealed plastic bags or boxes EXCEPT for the lifters which get taken apart ONE AT A TIME for cleaning in solvent or ATF. I get a bigass tub and fill it with the hottest water I can stand to put my hands in, and add some detergent. Hot water and "rifle brushes" to clean the oil drillings in the crankshaft, and oil drillings in the block.

Iron or steel parts may need some protectant, (ATF on cylinder walls, for example, ATF or engine oil on rocker arms and balls, timing set, pushrods, camshaft, oil pump parts--all the normally-oiled parts of the engine, but not bearing saddles or gasket surfaces.) In the case of bearing saddles, oil galleries, and gasket surfaces, compressed air and LOTS OF IT to thoroughly dry the iron--otherwise you can WATCH it rust. My Father-in-law was captivated by watching rust crystals growing on his freshly-washed 455. He had no idea that was something that could be seen as it progressed.

Originally Posted by 66_Cat_Jon

Second, the machinist left the camshaft large freeze plug out because he says it makes it easier to install the cam

I have no idea why he would think that.

Originally Posted by 66_Cat_Jon

and knock the plug in after. So is Permatex #2 Form A Gasket a good sealant for this freeze plug or would something else be better?

"I" would use Loctite 242 "Blue" or 271 "Red" threadlocker, same as all the other press-fit core plugs. Not everyone will agree.

[Scarebird]

For me the first item in after cleaning is camshaft to check it spins freely and bearings are installed correctly.

[ANDYA]

All good ideas so far. I will add that you need to be meticulous when cleaning an engine and its associated parts. Clean and re-clean several times if necessary. Make sure the cylinder walls are spotless. As said keep wiping them with WD-40 or trans fluid on paper towels until no more grit comes off. Keep the parts wet until you’re ready to blow dry everything and immediately coat all machined surfaces withWD-40. You will be surprised how fast cast iron will flash rust. Be sure and run cleaning brushes with hot soapy water into all holes including oil galleys and oil feed holes in the lifter bores and main saddles. It should take a few hours, maybe more, from start to finish to properly clean everything .

[66_Cat_Jon]

Thanks to all of you for this valuable advice!

[77 TRASHCAN]

All the above info is great stuff. A couple of things from me...

Moroso makes an engine cleaning brush kit. It has all sizes of brushes needed to thoroughly clean a block. Part number 61820

Before the thorough cleaning...wipe out all the lifter bores, so they are clean (for the moment). Take a new lifter and trial fit it in each lifter bore. Needs to move up and down and spin freely. You never know what was in the hot tank and in the shop that could heave bumped against your block, and nick the top of a lifter bore.
You don't want to find this out after you've final cleaned every thing and had to grind or sand off something...

I usually use liquid dish soap