[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by scott70

I ran a T2 intake for quite a while. Good intake for a car with mild modifications . Port’s aren’t huge so it still had good low end.

I haven't run one on a smaller inch Pontiac, but I agree this is a good manifold. I've had it in stock form on a mild 455 and a wild 455 now with just a port match to 310cfm KRE Dports. It makes torque everywhere.

Unless something bigger is needed, I recommend the TII for anybody that is running any sort of throttle body injection system. I observed much better fuel distribution with the TII vs a dual plane manifold.

I wouldn't be afraid of a TII on a 350 either.

I still think for right now while the OP is working on the car and sorting it, I would at least try the combination that he currently has. Not because it's the best combination, but because the car probably needs money elsewhere if the engine is otherwise running decent.

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by steve25

Basically the 067 cam had 7 more degrees of exh duration and 1 degree less in overlap, and both had the same .406 valve lift.
So the 067 hung in there a little better above 4500 rpm with the stock exh manifolds.

Unless the specs I have are wrong. It looks like while they have the same intake lobe, the 066 has the ICL 6 degree adanvced compared to the 067.

Stan

[steve25]

Yes, I did not post up the full details like others have since I was out at a cruse and just going by memory.

[NateOld687]

I've been trying to figure out what transmission is hooked up this engine, my googlins have come up with little info..can anyone help me figure it out with these pictures? It is floor shift btw and feels like it is also a 3 speed.

Ps. Engine is a 68' "WK" so it originally came with a manual trans if my research served me right?

[gto4ben]

It looks like you have a 1972 M38 3 speed Pontiac automatic (Turbo 350). I have one from 1971. These can be identified by the shape of the pan.

[NateOld687]

She is starting to look like a car again! Still needs a few odds and ends but lots closer to hearing it run for the first time in who knows how long, I am very excited!

[NateOld687]

This Ventura was originally a column shift, one of the previous owners had almost completed a floor shift conversion, I got to the point of seeing if this thing would turn over..lights/blinkers/wipers/blower motor/dash lights all working after I replaced the glass fuses and cleaned up the fuse box..all but the starter, I have no cranking or clicking of any kind when turning the key, now I've had the steering wheel off a couple times and made sure everything was fine there. My question is concerning the neutral safety switch, it being a column swapped over to a floor shift..I don't think they (previous owner) got to that point of wiring a new switch for the floor shifter, I think maybe that's why it won't crank..the neutral safety switch..?

Ps. I've named the car "Shikaka"

[steve25]

Nate, why don’t you start your own fresh post on your no crank issue instead of hi hacking this one.

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by steve25

Nate, why don’t you start your own fresh post on your no crank issue instead of hi hacking this one.

Sorry bud idk what I'm doing, I'm new here and to the whole pontiac scene, I started this post didn't I?

[Jay S]

Sounds like the neutral safety isn’t wired up yet. It can be on the tranny like it was from the factory or wired to an aftermarket shifter.

Your thread here is as good a place as any to ask questions for getting your new ride on the road.

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by Jay S

Sounds like the neutral safety isn’t wired up yet. It can be on the tranny like it was from the factory or wired to an aftermarket shifter.

Your thread here is as good a place as any to ask questions for getting your new ride on the road.

Thanks, I have looked underneath the car and it appears there is a loose wire coming from where the speedo cable comes out of the trans, about 4 inches long..I am going to take the floor shift console off tonight after work and see what I find..there is still the oem neutral safety switch attached underneath the dash around the steering column aswell..

[steve25]

I need to apologize, for some darn reason I thought you did not start this string of post.

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by steve25

I need to apologize, for some darn reason I thought you did not start this string of post.

All good man, I was just really hoping I wasn't doing something to make anyone angry, I apologize for my future questions to you guys I know some may seem pretty straight forward but I am struggling with this car and need to ask people who know more than I.

[NateOld687]

So I took the cover off of the floor shifter and there are no micro switches or wiring anywhere near it, crawled underneath and same thing no switches or wires..now the old column shift neutral safety switch is still there and all plugged in aswell..I'm pretty confused as to what to do..I'll take some pictures here shortly and do a show and tell 😀

[JLMounce]

It sounds like you are possibly missing the back drive linkage. This linkage is attached to the shifter, sometimes via a cable, to a rod that attached to an arm on the column. This is what acts as the reverse lock out, and the switching arm for the neutral safety switch.

I'm not sure about your car specifically, but in many instances, when headers are installed, the back drive linkage is in the way and must be removed. When that occurs you must jump the NSS. This will allow the car to start, but the NSS is ineffective and will allow the car to start in any gear.

This all seems plausible considering you know the car was being changed from a column to floor shift. You should be able to get the proper back drive linkage for the car from any of the numerous restoration parts dealers.

[NateOld687]

The floor shifter top and bottom also the loose wire coming from my trans, I think the loose wire from trans is for cruise?

[johnta1]

oem neutral safety switch attached underneath the dash around the steering column aswell..

This is what you need to get working for the neutral switch.
The purple wire(s) are what go to the starter from the inside switch.
Since the original column is swapped, probably no back drive linkage (as was said).

Most when using a different shifter or with headers (as said) makeshift a switch on the new shifter using the 2 purple wires.

But you need to know there is a lot of current going through it when cranking.
Some use a relay from shifter micro switch to run the power to the starter.

The reverse light will not work either (or on all the time if in right position) when the back drive linkage is gone.
(needs another switch setup)

[RocktimusPryme]

You just missed an all out brawl of a thread over P350s lol.

I agree with others, I would pick up a standard pontiac intake over that Torker 1. Torker IIs have their supporters, but I don't know if I've ever heard anyone go to bat for the first version. I also don't like edelbrock carbs, but plenty of others do.

Other than swapping the intake, I would run it if it runs. If you decide you need more grunt later, build a bigger engine. But do it on the side while you have a running driving car.

[blueghoast]

I would loop the purple wirs to fire it up. You fix that later.
We want to here it run baby. LOL

GT

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

I would loop the purple wirs to fire it up. You fix that later.
We want to here it run baby. LOL

GT

I'm doing this tonight, idk how long it's been since this thing has been ran..I've worked on it everyday since memorial day