[JLMounce]

I'll probably get flamed for this, but honestly, the bypassed NSS is only an issue if you let it be one. The NSS in my 69 bird and my wife's former 72 Chevelle both came to us this way. I'm diligent about making sure the car is in park/neutral before I try to start my car and I've never had a mishap.

There's of course a reason those are there and having them completely functional is best practice, but sometimes...safety third.

[Sirrotica]

No flaming here. My race cars were direct wired to start with an automatic transmission in gear, but it was part of my safety program for use on a dirt track.

If the car spun out, or was involved in an incident that required you to get out of the way of the pack of cars coming at you, you want to get it started immediately and get out of the way. No need to put it back in neutral before hitting the start button, then all you need to do is mash the gas to get off the track to not become a sitting duck.

If it's a hobby car, or race car and typically only has one driver the neutral safety switch isn't as critical as a car that is used as a form of transportation, and could have multiple drivers unaware of the deleted safety switch.

[NateOld687]

Yeah I'll be the only one driving it, it needs to get on the road asap, then over the winter I can dink around with the minor details, just needs a good shake down..I've yet to here it run, also only has open headers atm

I have though relocated the remote oil filter, wire wheeled entire underside of the car and discovered a bunch of new parts that appear to have never been used like fuel lines/gas tank/front disk brakes/thermostat etc. Etc. It appears to me that someone was putting it together then just stopped, so with limited history known about the car I've done my best to finish the build..I knew what I was getting into but idc

Shikaka will be on the road again before summers end!!

[NateOld687]

So after further inspection, I have low voltage at the switch..I am going to remove and clean all harness plugs and grounds on the car starting tonight, all the wiring appears to be original and non molested besides the radio wires, gonna be a long night and my wife's gonna hate me but Shikaka don't give a damn..thanks to everyone who has given this motorcycle mechanic help so far, gonna be a long road traveled.

[NateOld687]

She is alittle rough..these are gonna be the "before" pics 👍

[Squidward]

Welcome! Cool car, just the way I like them!

I love your mentality to get it running and drivable.

I've used an add-on NSS:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...RoCbR8QAvD_BwE

Requires a little bit of wire routing. I have that setup laying around in a box somewhere, never had a problem with it.

But with regards to having no NSS, I installed a set of gauges at the console on my 67 FB, with the NSS jumped out. During the install I had the shifter in low to get it out of the way. Pleased with my install, I touched it over to see things work, and it launched the car into my workbench. I am fortunate it didn't plow through the wall into the laundry room. So as long as you don't do dumb stuff...

The shifter I have now has the NSS at the shifter. I've also been checked for a working NSS at drag strip tech inspects, so there's that.

Run that 350!!!!

That intake is whacked, but works for the moment. If you like having a little elevation to your intake: I use something like these, when they were branded with a name like "Crosswind" or something.
https://www.speedmaster79.com/Pontia...nifold-Satin_2
It's a knock off of the Performer RPM. Dual plane, dual pattern for your choice of carb, fits better than the Performer RPM, eliminates the exhaust crossover, keeps your carb cooler, fits with old/late head intake gaskets (IIRC), and makes a nice place under the intake to route wiring/vacuum hoses. Of course, if you care about Qjets and chokes and stuff, it might not be a best choice.

I hate cast iron intakes. If I wanted to pump iron, there are gyms and prisons for that.

[NateOld687]

I got her running, and drove it for the first time! With open headers this thing is loud af..scared me when it first popped, I was scared to drive it knowing it's been years since it's seen the road, first thing I noticed was how effortless the power steering is, then the brakes feel a little weird but that could be it's just an old car, currently don't have a temp gauge installed but I feel like it got hot fast, my dad lives just a few miles away and that's all it took to feel like it was almost over heating, maybe it just needs run time to loosen some stuff up..but man what a great feeling to hear it run, and it's throttle response is snappy the second I touch the throttle she Wicks right up!! Fast revs, I'm going to take her out of the shed soon and take proper pics to show ya all

[NateOld687]

Starting the dialing in process, she looks better outside

[tempest1964]

Looks great!

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by NateOld687

Starting the dialing in process, she looks better outside

Cool car. Even cooler farm.

[NateOld687]

This car has sat for an unknown amount of time with the valve covers just sat on top..not bolted down, I can start the car and it runs fine will Rev up and all just fine I've done this a few times now where everything seems good and I'll drive it for about 5 minutes then I bend a push rod..just yesterday driving easy like 40-50mph (cruising) then all of a sudden starts misfiring and dies as I pull into a friend's driveway. Pop the valve covers and cylinder 6's push rod bent, I managed to grab it with a needle nose..look down towards the lifter and it is gone, I managed to limp it back to my house (only about 2miles)..now this is the second bent push rod since I've ran the car..remember I'm pretty new to all of this, but I suspect that since the car sat for awhile with valve covers just sat on top of engine that maybe the lifters have failed causing the bent rods..also unknown build and history of the car leaves me with a million questions..idk what to do, I've ordered all new lifters for the car..my lack of knowledge is frustrating..with new lifters will I have to also get a new cam? Sorry for possibly sounding like an idiot, I don't know anyone personally who can help me figure this stuff out that's why I came here...

Ps. Engine is a 68' pontiac 350 HO "WK" block out of a firebird. #18 heads, please help!!

[JLMounce]

I would maybe suspect sticking valves. If you’ve got corroded valves or seats and they bind up as heat gets to them, that would absolutely bend pushrods. That type of thing can also destroy lifters, or even blow out lifter bosses.

Before spending a bunch of money I’d start tearing into a few things. First, I’d change the oil and cut open the filter. I’d be looking for tell tale signs of a flat cam that could accompany this.

Next I’d take off the valve covers, intake and valley pan to get a look under her skirt. I’d be looking for visual signs of cam wear and issues with the lifters. Specifically with the lifters I’d be looking for mushroomed bottoms or concave wear.

You might also take out a couple of pushrods and see if they are corroded. There’s a lot of force on these and if they are corroded they can certainly bend.

If this doesn’t return anything suspect (or even if it does) I think I’m pulling the heads and looking for bent and sticking valves. That’ll also get you a look at the piston tops and cylinder walls.

That would dictate next steps.

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

I would maybe suspect sticking valves. If you’ve got corroded valves or seats and they bind up as heat gets to them, that would absolutely bend pushrods. That type of thing can also destroy lifters, or even blow out lifter bosses.

Before spending a bunch of money I’d start tearing into a few things. First, I’d change the oil and cut open the filter. I’d be looking for tell tale signs of a flat cam that could accompany this.

Next I’d take off the valve covers, intake and valley pan to get a look under her skirt. I’d be looking for visual signs of cam wear and issues with the lifters. Specifically with the lifters I’d be looking for mushroomed bottoms or concave wear.

You might also take out a couple of pushrods and see if they are corroded. There’s a lot of force on these and if they are corroded they can certainly bend.

If this doesn’t return anything suspect (or even if it does) I think I’m pulling the heads and looking for bent and sticking valves. That’ll also get you a look at the piston tops and cylinder walls.

That would dictate next steps.

Awesome thanks for the direction, yes there was actual rust on rockers/push rods I cleaned them up before running the car but obviously that didn't help anything... ihave a surface plate I can roll the push rods around on to check em' but if they are corroded at all I should just replace them..I should know better honestly just on a budget and thought it would be not a big deal, again thanks I'm gonna dive into her tomorrow night

[JLMounce]

That can certainly be part of the problem. But if the pushrods are corroded, it's likely you have corrosion elsewhere too.

Do you have access to a decent bore scope that would allow you to look inside the bores and check out the piston tops, cylinder walls and bottom of the valves closely enough to determine if there is rust?

You technically can put new lifters on a used cam, but it's not advisable in my opinion. The cam lobes have a specific surface finish when new that is designed to help mate the lobe to the lifter during break-in. On a used cam, this surface finish has been polished and as a result you run a greater risk of having a break in, or premature cam failure. If you need new lifters, I'd opt for a new cam as well. Considering the current known state of the engine, I might be inclined to do a cam kit that includes the cam, lifters, timing chain and pushrods.

Does the engine have factory lifters with bottleneck studs on it, or has it been converted to an adjustable valvetrain?

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

That can certainly be part of the problem. But if the pushrods are corroded, it's likely you have corrosion elsewhere too.

Do you have access to a decent bore scope that would allow you to look inside the bores and check out the piston tops, cylinder walls and bottom of the valves closely enough to determine if there is rust?

You technically can put new lifters on a used cam, but it's not advisable in my opinion. The cam lobes have a specific surface finish when new that is designed to help mate the lobe to the lifter during break-in. On a used cam, this surface finish has been polished and as a result you run a greater risk of having a break in, or premature cam failure. If you need new lifters, I'd opt for a new cam as well. Considering the current known state of the engine, I might be inclined to do a cam kit that includes the cam, lifters, timing chain and pushrods.

Does the engine have factory lifters with bottleneck studs on it, or has it been converted to an adjustable valvetrain?

I do plan to dig into the motor tonight, has oem bottleneck studs and nuts, I will not risk it and put in new lifters..it's looking like the cam kit is going to be in the works..I would like to keep it all original as much as I can..I drained the oil lastnight with no signs of major damage..no glitter in the oil or chunks of metal, just black..

[NateOld687]

I am going to remove intake manifold and valley pan tonight for starters and see what I disco er

[JLMounce]

Please post pictures if you can.

This is an unexpected expense, so I'm not certain what your budget is, but considering you are now taking the intake manifold off the engine, this is the best time to put a factory manifold back on it.

[NateOld687]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

Please post pictures if you can.

This is an unexpected expense, so I'm not certain what your budget is, but considering you are now taking the intake manifold off the engine, this is the best time to put a factory manifold back on it.

Absolutely will post pics..thank you for the info and help it is greatly appreciated

[NateOld687]

So I got to look under the valley pan, you can see what it looked like..I began to remove each rocker and came to realize the washers under the nuts were froze solid to the bottle neck shafts so bad I couldn't physically remove the rockers..I can imagine that would cause some sort of issue, I went on to remove each push rod and lifter and have seen no wear on either the lifters or the cam lobes although I did discover two more slightly bent push rods that were also under the few "frozen" rocker washers I found but again no visual sign of worn out anything..could it have just been the frozen washers under the nuts?

[NateOld687]

More pictures of what I found under the valley pan