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#1
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Is the heat shield difficult to install?
I just purchased one on eBay. I see it has two attachment points, do I need hardware or does it attach with hardware already there? Is it very effective? (sometimes my car will barely crank when hot after driving a while) |
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#2
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Easy to install with existing hardware. You will have to drop the starter as the solenoid is on top of it.
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#3
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Thanks. Do you know if the shield is effective? I have to wonder why this person removed it from his car and sold it.
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#4
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The shield pictured was used on cars equipped with the larger Ram Air / HO exhaust manifolds that put more heat into the solenoid. In later years there was a similar shield used with standard log exhaust manifolds.
I doubt anyone removed the shield of there was one there to begin with but anything is possible. I have always used one of those shields and they do help.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#5
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Quote:
Glad to hear it does (will) help. Last edited by pilot737; 06-21-2025 at 02:19 PM. |
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#6
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It’s the correct part.
Likely went missing when someone changed the starter.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#7
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I'll just say this, it's doubtful that a shield will fix your hot starting issue. I've never personally seen a starter heat shield or blanket actually fix a hot start issue. The issue is more likely to be due to old crusty battery cables and/or an insufficient gauge battery cables. It could also be related to engine timing. Or maybe just a worn out starter.
Hopefully your shield fixes your hot start problem, but if not, I'd install a PowerMaster 9510XS gear reduction mini starter and some 1AWG battery cables. That will make your hot start issues a thing of the past.
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![]() 1966 Pontiac GTO (restoration thread) 1998 BMW 328is (track rat) 2023 Subaru Crosstrek Limited (daily) View my photos: Caught in the Wild |
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#8
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Good battery cables are essential. Upgrading them to something better than original is a plus.
I use 2/0 welding cable and make up my own. I put a copper buss on the starter to eliminate the purple wire that activates the solenoid. I also use a Ford solenoid to act as a relay, the positive cable to the starter is hot with current only when you use the key to start the engine. Never needs but a flick of the key hot or cold to start, I’ve never used an aftermarket starter.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#9
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In every single case on all the GTO's I've owned and helped out with, slow cranking or no cranking when hot was due to excessive resistance in the purple S wire that runs from the back of the ign. switch to the starter solenoid. You can easily verify this by hooking up a remote starter switch and seeing if it turns over easily when the engine is hot with the remote button. If so, it can't be the solenoid or starter. It's the wire.
People don't want to hear this for whatever reason, and like to install mini starters, Ford remote solenoids, oversize cables, etc. But the actual issue is a bad 60 year old wire that can't handle the load due to degradation. I can drive mine all day long in 100 degree heat, shut down and let it heat soak, and it will start right up. With a stock 40 year old Delco starter, no heat shield, and repro AMES spring ring battery cables. And a new purple S wire. The factory stuff works just fine with no embellishments needed as long as it meets factory specs.
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Jeff |
| The Following User Says Thank You to geeteeohguy For This Useful Post: | ||
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#10
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Interesting thread. Thanks to pilot 737 for starting. I don’t think, at least l hope I’m not hijacking the thread.
I have a ‘67 GTO with the HO option. I pulled the engine & trans last winter to re-seal and complete a cosmetic restoration of the engine and compartment. I recall what an absolute bear it was to remove the factory starter with exhaust manifold and rest of the engine in place. When I reinstalled the engine, I attached the starter and the exhaust manifolds to the engine and then re-installed the whole enchilada as a unit. After it was all done, I happened to go thru a bunch of random parts that came with the car. This thread identified one of those random parts. It’s the heat shield 😩. I looked at installing it now but I’m not sure if it can be done. Does anyone know if l can install the shield on a HO/4spd car without lifting the engine? I read here that the shield will likely not provide appreciable protection but l would like to have it in place for a proper factory appearance if possible. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you! |
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