[PAUL K]

The best way to set timing in the car is advance it two degrees at a time until it slows down or runs the same, then retard it one degree.

I have four timing lights and they vari by six degrees.


A friend that builds a lot of drag week engines likes to advance the timing in 1/2 degree increments on the dyno, then backs it off a half degree when the improvement stops.

[Money Pit]

My timing was dyno and track tested also. Also used 3 different timing light.

[Dragncar]

Well, I have 4 time runs Saturday. I will go with 34 deg the first one, 36 the second run, see what happens. If It runs about the same between the two might as well leave it at 34.
But I bet it likes 36.
I built this thing to finally be right next to, or past all the low 10 second cars I race against. Its going to be nice now not watching them pull away from me like the past. I 60 footed as good as them and watched them leave me on the big end. Now, I 60 foot better than just about all of them and if I can find a few MPH I will be past them.
With a little ole Pontiac.
Maybe the 1050 will get my MPH. I will try that the last race in September.

[Dragncar]

Ran just Super Pro today. Worked late Friday night so I just made it to the track on time. Never touched the timing.
First pass ran a 6.37 at 104 MPH with a 1.35 60 foot. Had another 1.35 60 foot and a 1.36.
The car is hooking very well. A guy told me is picking the wheels up just over a foot and carrying it 40 foot. Sounds like a long way to me. A buddy will record it tomorrow so I will know if its true.
I was by myself today. Everyone is coming Sunday.....Wally Day !

[GOAT8U2]

Nice, sounds like you got the converter issue figured out.
In that thread post what changed, like loosened it and now leaving at like 4000rpm? 1.35 60ft is great, also update on there what tire you're running, Slick or Drag Radial?

With Paul K in here, I'm sure things like...
Cam size and LSA (I'm 110LSA)
Compression (11.7)

I'd gamble us tighter LSA guys need more timing and then the even higher compression cars with the bigger LSA need less timing up top.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Sure, but .82 from a 4 deg increase in timing ? Never heard of that big a jump. Maybe it happens, first time for me.
There was something weird that happened earlier. After I first started the car I took it to a desolate place at the track and brought the converter up on the brake 2 step set at 3800. Converter was new so I wanted to get some input.
The tach went to 5000 RPM. Turned it up to 4000 and it went past 5000 RPM.
It acted normal after that, tach sort of matched the 2 step RPM. Maybe I have a loose screw holding a wire. I will check them before the next race this weekend.

The adjustable RPM selector for the 2 step acted almost dead nuts on as far as RPM when brought up on the converter.
I asked some knowledgeable old racers at the track about it and said those switched do go bad and start to act up.
But it was fine today. Thinking about buying another one but might go a different route.
One of my electrician wizards racer pals has made his own. Its a adjustable small air cylinder that he has on his linkage to set his take off idle. Industrial stuff from Automation Direct. His deal you don't have all that popping and stuttering that is bad for your block.
He made his own delay box too.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by GOAT8U2

Nice, sounds like you got the converter issue figured out.
In that thread post what changed, like loosened it and now leaving at like 4000rpm? 1.35 60ft is great, also update on there what tire you're running, Slick or Drag Radial?

With Paul K in here, I'm sure things like...
Cam size and LSA (I'm 110LSA)
Compression (11.7)

I'd gamble us tighter LSA guys need more timing and then the even higher compression cars with the bigger LSA need less timing up top.

Yes the converter is working great. Its different, you have to really stab the gas to get the tires to spin. But it sure hits the tires hard. Makes me kinda wish I would have ran the 8" at 36 deg timing. Bet it also would have worked well.
I run a 30" tall 10.5 wide MT Pro Bracket Radial and they are fantastic. Never going back to bias.
Today the car developed a issue. Had a little miss, couple pops right before I shifted. Ran a 10.33, little better than the day before. With a 1.36 60 foot. But that run I lost the fan belt and did not realize it and it got hot. Water pouring out of the overflow on the return road. Got up to 260 deg but the engine still cranked fine. Glad I have .006 piston to wall now.
It still had 1.36-1.38 60 foots but the ETs slowed a tad. The popping got worse the next few runs. I though it was just because the fuel cell got down to 1/4 full. Filled it up and got worse. Last pass it was bad enough I just backed out of it and let him go. sucked because I wasted a .003 light.
So I loaded it up and took it home. Thought since it got kinda hot maybe a plug or two had a issue. Well, they all looked perfect, BUT 3 of them were loose. Like put the socket on by hand and they turned. Not backed way out, just loose. I checked the gap, put a little Never seize on them and the engine immediately fired up. sounded great.
Hope that was it. But it did not pop unless it was under a pretty good load so its hard to check. I will run the valves this week just to check everything but iI do not expect to find a thing. They were all very close when I set them last week.
I guess I was just a little too cautious tightening the plugs. To tell you the truth the threads did not seem all that clean when I first put the plugs in. Not terrible, just not great either.
The 1050 I had built for this thing is going on, last race so I am going to run it. The intake is a 4500 but I have a 4150 carb on so there is a little miss match. # 2 plug is always a little wet., might be a fuel distribution issue ? Maybe the Dominator will get me the MPH I am after.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Yes the converter is working great. Its different, you have to really stab the gas to get the tires to spin. But it sure hits the tires hard. Makes me kinda wish I would have ran the 8" at 36 deg timing. Bet it also would have worked well.
I run a 30" tall 10.5 wide MT Pro Bracket Radial and they are fantastic. Never going back to bias.
Today the car developed a issue. Had a little miss, couple pops right before I shifted. Ran a 10.33, little better than the day before. With a 1.36 60 foot. But that run I lost the fan belt and did not realize it and it got hot. Water pouring out of the overflow on the return road. Got up to 260 deg but the engine still cranked fine. Glad I have .006 piston to wall now.
It still had 1.36-1.38 60 foots but the ETs slowed a tad. The popping got worse the next few runs. I though it was just because the fuel cell got down to 1/4 full. Filled it up and got worse. Last pass it was bad enough I just backed out of it and let him go. sucked because I wasted a .003 light.
So I loaded it up and took it home. Thought since it got kinda hot maybe a plug or two had a issue. Well, they all looked perfect, BUT 3 of them were loose. Like put the socket on by hand and they turned. Not backed way out, just loose. I checked the gap, put a little Never seize on them and the engine immediately fired up. sounded great.
Hope that was it. But it did not pop unless it was under a pretty good load so its hard to check. I will run the valves this week just to check everything but iI do not expect to find a thing. They were all very close when I set them last week.
I guess I was just a little too cautious tightening the plugs. To tell you the truth the threads did not seem all that clean when I first put the plugs in. Not terrible, just not great either.
The 1050 I had built for this thing is going on, last race so I am going to run it. The intake is a 4500 but I have a 4150 carb on so there is a little miss match. # 2 plug is always a little wet., might be a fuel distribution issue ? Maybe the Dominator will get me the MPH I am after.

What's the weight of your car ?

GT

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by blueghoast

What's the weight of your car ?

GT

3260 lbs. 3450 with me in it.
I just ordered a Polymer Racing 4500 2" Cloverleaf spacer to go with my 1050 for the last race.
I have a feeling the engine is going to like it.
https://polymerracingproducts.com/pr...af+Carb+Spacer

[R 70 Judge]

Any updates on this? Did you figure out your optimal timing?

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by R 70 Judge

Any updates on this? Did you figure out your optimal timing?

Well, the last race I put the 1050 on. But it was still popping. So I stopped racing and started looking harder. Ran the valves again, put new plugs in. Then I pulled the distributor cap and I found my popping. One of the screw holding the rotor down came out. First time for me, but it whacked the tip of the rotor a good 30 deg.
Blew the distributor out as there was some brass in there from the rotor contacting the cap. Put a new cap and rotor on and it ran great.
Got one pass in, 1/8th mile. 6.43 with a 1.37 60 foot.
So in the morning I put the 4150 back on. It ran some 1.35 60 foots, it was the last race and I just wanted to concentrate on going rounds.
The 1/4 mile dropped from 10.33 to 10.27. But those are the only 2 good passes I got in the 1/4 mile. I was getting the same 1.37 60 foots.
Never even made a 1/4 mile pass with the 1050.
So the season is over and I just got the car to run really well right at the end. I never got enough of it to tell you the truth. Thought about going to Redding but my radials are about done.
Sure I could get some 10 teens out of it. But it will have to wait until next year.
AND..... on my last pass shifting into 2nd the engine hit the 7K rev limiter. Might have rolled a sprag or something. Seemed to run OK getting back on the trailer.
I have a aftermarket aluminum 1st and direct along with larger center support so this winter I will build a new T400.
Car pulled a 2' wheele on one pass. neve got it quite as high the rest of the race.
Think I will warm it up this weekend and check the timing. Who knows where it is actually at with the rotor deal.