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#1
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I’ve read a few threads about this but thought I’d start my own to see if I can find a solution.
Car is a 77 Trans Am I bought with Rally IIs on it 15 years ago. Drove it very little back then and since changed to 15x8 snowflakes for the last 12 years or so. Tires needed replaced so I decided I wanted the Rally’s back on. In the meantime I discovered that’s what came on the car new and I like the look so I want them. Anyway, new tires installed and balanced and I had bad vibration. Returned for another balance (this time weights on the outside vs the inside like last time) and it’s better but not great. I then read some threads here about the proper way to balance lug centric rims which the shop hadn’t done before but after calling them, found out they have the ability. So back we go today (7th trip there mind you) for the new process and they’re still unbalanced. Slightly better than they were but not great. I was told one rim was bent slightly but the others appeared ok. I’m hesitant to just return to the shop without a different game plan. Any ideas? It feels like 2 of them might be “good ‘nuff” but I’m running out of ideas on the others.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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#2
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Ive recently heard rally 2 wheels are lug centric but I have had a few sets of rally 2 wheels on cars over the years & none were balanced with the lug centric adapter and have never had a problem balancing them. Unlike honeycombs that have a very thin/weak center hole area, rally 2 have much thicker metal around the center hole that allows them to be mounted on the machine very straight with the normal cone adapter... providing the tech gets them mounted squarely on the machine, can even do a spin without the tire to check for out of round or run out.
For the weights I always have them do a full dynamic balance (weights on front & rear of wheel), not static balance with weights on just the back side, although static has worked in the past as well. For nice wheels that your dont want weights showing on the front, you can have them use tape weights on the inside of the wheel but placed towards the front edge. Have a set of rally 2 on one of my cars that were not lug centric balanced, standard dynamic balance with tape weights on inner front & clamp on weights on the rear outer... the tires/car drives great with zero balance/vibration issues at 35mph or up to 80-90mph on the interstate or back country roads. Lug centric is best if you can find a shop that can do it, but for rally 2 wheels, they can definitely be balanced for a smooth ride using the standard cone adapter if the shop/tech knows what they are doing & has a good balancer, in my experience. Tires can also play a role in balancing or ride quality, some tires are much harder to get balanced than others. As a last resort you can find a shop that does road force balancing, where they put a load on the tire while balancing, much more expensive though. |
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#3
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Thanks for the suggestions. These were road force balanced to my knowledge and have been hub and lugcentric-ly balanced. Perhaps these wheels are just a lost cause due to bends or something. I’m tempted try another shop but at this time the current shop has been doing all of this for free.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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#4
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Cant beat free... hopefully they can get it right or confirm 1 or more are too far bent to balance out good. Also, best to put the 2 that you feel are "good nuff" on the fronts, rears wont be as sensitive if the balance isnt perfect.
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#5
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I have a lot of Rallye IIs outside against my garage wall. Its been my experience that many are bent from hitting curbs and potholes. I refurbished a set for my GTO and although they felt fine my wife, following behind me noted one was wobbling visibly as I drove down the road. From now on I spin them without a tire before proceeding with work on them or new tires.
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#6
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For the moment, the tire shop suggested I swap the tires back to the snowflakes I ran the last 12 years to rule out the tires as the cause. I have a couple ideas in the meantime but I asked how much they’d charge me to re mount the tires on the Rally’s if I were to find a solution and the guy said he wouldn’t charge me because of the hassle I’ve gone through. Can’t really argue with that at least.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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#7
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Before I restore wheels I take them to a wheel repair shop to make sure they are straight and true. Not cheap but worth it to me with good results. Just sayin.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#8
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I was 23 or 24 when I bought this car with these wheels and “restored” them back then. Wish I’d considered that at the time lol. If I can ask, what’s “not cheap”? Feel free to PM me if you wish.
Thanks.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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#9
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4 honeycomb wheels straightened was $460. Not cheap to me but worth it in my opinion.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#10
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Thanks, that at least gives me more info to work with.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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#11
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Back to my snowflakes for now. Tires feel fine. There’s a small vibration but I had that with the old tires. Kinda thinking I need to check my drums or possibly even axel shafts for a slight bend. But at this point I don’t believe the tires are to blame and the rally’s certainly contributed to the issue.
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1977 Trans Am 400/4speed (swap) Brian |
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