[jww]

I have a NOS cam in the original cardboard tube.
Part # on tube is 1-535480. Below that is 10#

Cast numbers on the shaft are 524886

Stamped on the cam are single digits C D 3
CWC.

According to McCarthy’s book it’s for a 1960
SD engine, mechanical lifter.

Does anybody know the meaning of the 10# on the tube? I was told by the original owner that it was a McKellar 10 cam, but McCarthy’s literature says (7).
His book-states there were a series of engines; 6 thru 12, I believe. Don’t know what that means? Different variations/ changes of the basic engine I guess??

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance, Jerry

[steve25]

The part number prefix of 524 was only used in 57.

The 535 was used in 61 .

There were no production 421 motors until 61.

Could a 524 Cam core have been used by the factory to grind up a #7 or # 10 cam, well sure they could have .

I think the only way to nail down what Cam you have is to slip it into a block with at least number 1 piston in it , and with a degree wheel bolted to its nose and then see how it checks out.

The best way I can see to determine which one of the 5 different mechanical Cams ( 7 thru 12 ) you might actually have is by the overlap numbers you see /. Find because they are all different.

[johnta1]

This is what I have on that cam:





'6' is what was stamped on nose of cam.


Not sure what your #10 means.

[johnta1]

Another source:

[jww]

Fergot I took these pics last nite. This cam has a 7 stamped on the nose

[johnta1]

Should have posted this on the solid cams:


Mechanical Cams

Thought I had the specs for Mac's #7 but can't find it at moment.



With the stamped '7' I'd say it was the 535480 cam, but maybe they used the other one to make this one?

[jww]

Thanks to all that responded. .. Obviously
an 886 camshaft.
Well , guess I’ll put it back on the shelf. Would it be too much for street 389? Future project car, probably be a 4 speed

[steve25]

No, not too big for a 389 built with a 9.5 compression and a 4 speed with at least 3.23 gears out back.

If you’re sticking with 389 iron heads I would set them up with screw in rocker studs and guide plates and then enjoy more fun by running 1.65 rockers .

If you go this route then besides the needed springs to handle the near .450” lift you may need to run thicker valve cover gaskets to clear the heal of the 1.65 rockers .

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by jww

Thanks to all that responded. .. Obviously
an 886 camshaft.
Well , guess I’ll put it back on the shelf. Would it be too much for street 389? Future project car, probably be a 4 speed

CWC cam core for the 524886 camshaft was used for several other different grindings by Pontiac. The actual I.D. of the cam is stamped at the nose of cam.

The part-# on tube and #7 stamped on nose reveals you have the mech. #535480 camshaft.

[steve25]

I that case if you wanted to compare it to a factory Hydro cam it would operate/ perform very close to the 744 Cam used in the 68 RA1 motors with a 4 speed and the 69 RAiII motors with a 4 speed.

In light of this and depending on your car’s weight I would say you want 3.55 rear gears .

[jww]

Thanks for the great observations Steve and all.
Getting ready to start on this car soon, so not a liteweight by any stretch. Currently an automatic and 2 barrel motor so your advice about a 3:55 rearend is probably close

[steve25]

Is that the original blue?

[jww]

Hey, Steve……
Yes that’s original color, I believe it’s Bristol Blue.
Just a Catalina, not a Ventura.
I’m in Ohio but bought it from CA back in 2007 if I recall correctly.. Actually got it on EBay before prices there went crazy.
Good solid body but interior is toast from the CA sun, I suspect,.
Will have to strip to bare metal and repair/repaint.
Just a driver no more body/off stuff for me!

Thanks again for the help and info .

[Goatracer1]

The cam is a #7 (stamped number on the end of cam) which is the 535480 part number cam. The 524886 number is the cam blank number (not to be confused with the number 6 524886 cam) which could have been ground to anyone of a different cams profiles. The 524886 #6 cam was the first cam to be ground on that casting number. That casting number had enough material to allow it to be used later for different cam profiles.

[b-man]

Here’s a thread discussing a topic relevant to this camshaft identification topic:

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=867777

[jww]

Ok, so the 886 core could have been ground to any number of camshafts. It’s the number stamped pn the end that tells the tale.

Not to open up a can of worms but any recommendations on a good set of solid lifters? Is there such a thing as good flat tappet lifters anymore?
Flat tappet stuff is such a crap shoot now days.

Sounds like I got a good cam, don’t wanna ruin it with Chinezium lifters

Have a good Sunday!

[steve25]

I would buy the ones that Butler sells and for added insurance if the wallet allows send at least the Cam out to be Cryo treated.

Critical to any successful flat tappet C & L break in besides the additives is to over fill the pan by 1 Qt , and getting the motor right up to 2500 rpm to kick that oil all around well.
If you’re still using the stock connecting rods those old ones had oil spurt holes to shoot oil up to the C & L.

But none the less I would still over fill the pan.


Also I have found that the oil spurt holes in the rods of this era can make for oil control conditions above 4000 rpm .
I would really recommend that you install a crank scraper during the rebuild to deal with this issue so you will not havd to tie rags around the motors valve cover breather or have rear main seal leaks after some full throttle fun rowing thru the gears.

[jww]

All good advice. Never thought about overfilling the pan but it makes sense for the xtra splash.

Car is still stored for now but intend to put it on the “operating table” soon, so gonna be a while before this thing runs/drives

[Chiefmehowazz]

Would you sell it ? I would be interested s