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#1
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Im getting ready to first fire an engine. Im basically buying someone elses project (always an adventure). I did purchase it before the shop finished it about a year ago, so I paid extra to have the shop assemble the long block because this is an expensive engine and I wanted it done professionally. There is a lot of stuff with this engine I probably wouldnt have done, external wet sump oiling system for starters, but its all nice parts.
I didnt get a build sheet when it was delivered, so I am going to call the engine shop and see if they still have the details on the bearing clearances or if they have a preferred oil weight for their builds. But like the title says, this is a hydraulic roller motor. Do you guys bother with a dedicated break in oil in this case? Do you just use a cheap SAE oil with some zinc (VR1 probably) to maybe help ring seal and then replace it after about 50 miles.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
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#2
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Yes, even crate engine companies won't warranty their roller engines without break on oil. Blueprint as an example is very adamant about that.
There are still very high friction areas in the engine like rockers, pushrods, piston skirts etc .. Not to mention break in oils help the rings seat quicker. |
| The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Formulajones For This Useful Post: | ||
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#3
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Use the additive called Oil Extreme , or use 5W30 Pennzoil ultra or Brad penn break in oil with no additive.
Pennzoil ultra all on its own has incredible load carrying capacity all on its own. It blows away Lucus and royal purple and many others with ease. In fact there’s no need to put a additive in Pennzoil ultra even if your breaking in a flat tappet hydro cam when you look at the load carrying ability it has.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! Last edited by steve25; 09-24-2025 at 06:08 PM. |
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#4
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Quote:
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
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#5
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It’s always best to ensure the best possible outcome. I used Driven break in oil. I have a traditional cam and lifters but the roller cam and lifter kits are way more expensive to gamble with an issue that can be avoided on initial start up and run in.
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#6
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The cost of an engine vs. a few bucks more for break in oil made it a no brainer for me. Even though I've got a roller, I figured there's plenty of other stuff that needed to break in and a little extra protection wouldn't hurt.
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Ken '68 GTO - 464 - Ram Air II heads - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - Moser 3.55 Truetrac (build thread | walk around) '74 Ventura 350 '69 AMC Javelin SST |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Verdoro 68 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#7
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IMO & experience, No. & my engine builder didnt recommend using break in oil on my roller cam engine nor did SD who I got the OF cam from.
There is still plenty of zddp & other anti wear additives like moly etc in modern oil to handle any of the other high friction areas of an engine as well as a roller cam... no factory modern cars require these special break in oils designed for flat tappet cams... not even 500-700hp vettes, mustangs or challengers that have roller engines require it, why would a 450-550 average street roller cam pontiac need break in oil? I use good name brand off the shelf oils, usually valvoline in my 500+ hp stroker Pontiac for 13 years now, lots of hard street use & drag strip runs at low 11's, doing great with the same oil psi as when it was brand new. Also have other flat tappet pontiacs that have been using normal oils, usually a high mileage type for 18+ years in 1 car & 28+ years in another, all are stock or mild (.480 lift) fully broken in cams that do not need special break in oil or hot rod oils. Thats not saying they will cause damage or hurt the engine, but they are not required for fresh start of a roller cam engine or an already broken in one. But maybe Im doing something wrong or just dont buy into these zddp myths? |
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#8
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Just use the break in oil. These things are too expensive and are a ton of work to not point every single little thing into the direction of things working out for the best. Especially if you build them yourself (like you should)
I have a SR, use not one, but 2 break in oils. Started with Bran Penn 30WT break in oil. Engine oil pressure was over 100 lbs. So I switched to Royal Purple 10-30 break in oil to finish seating the rings. Now Run Shaeffers 5-50 9000 oil. Everything turned out perfect. Spend a few more bucks and pay attention to every little detail. Try and leave nothing to chance. |
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