[mgarblik]

Guys that really love this stuff can still get it. At least for now. Amazon shows 13 bottles in stock. Summit has about 30 left. It may be a sell it til it's all gone deal. It's plenty expensive. Way more than I am willing to spend for a bottle of goo that really isn't needed. About $30.00 a bottle. This is of course the current formulation, not the good stuff from the 1980's. I just used the last bottle I had of that in the metal can on Eric's Road race engine last year.
Personally, I just use molly based paste, (Cam Shield), and break-in oil and call it a day.

[tom s]

Ebay still has GM EOS for sale.There is even one of the old white bottles on the now.Some black bottles and some round cans.I bought some of the old white bottles a year ago or so.Tom

[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by Kenth

In 1965 Pontiac said E.O.S. must be added at every oil change.

That says a lot about the motor oils of the time.

Chrome rings. Woof.

Chevy was using Moly-faced rings in the Big Block starting in '65. Far as I know, that was the first OEM application of Moly rings.

Chrome rings handle dust better than Moly rings, but there shouldn't be any dust in the incoming air if the air filter is any good. And that dust is murder on the cylinder walls, so you're not really gaining anything.

Best application for chrome rings is antique agricultural--low-rpm tractor engine with craptastic oil-bath air cleaners getting sloshed-around by driving over ruts and rough ground.

[cmoc-bob]

Direct injection engines suffered from "LSPI" - Low Speed Pre-Ignition.

Caused by the additive packages used, this has been fix.

Which is why it's critical to use the correct spec oil in late-model cars.

For the folks that insist "mixing up" your own oil, you need to read and understand the mess you are doing.

Send some un-used new "whatever brand" oil to oil analysis, then send them you mixed up concoction - see what the reports show.

Yes - buy the right oil and leave it alone.....I couldn't agree more.

No race oil on the street, mixing up crap, listening to the "oil additive" sales gimmicks.

Bob

[P@blo]

You guys really crack me up. Direct port injection is about the only scenario where you can get low-speed preignition and does not apply here. So why even use it as an example, let alone repeat it? A room full of soapboxes and clapping.

The HDEO I use has the API SN rating for use in gasoline engines. Cams and tappets, is there something I am missing here? Also, since I know what the new oil and additive contains, why would I pay someone to have it analyzed? I'd put some scratch on seeing what was going on with the oil after the piss gets beat out of it for a while though.

A guy can read three different papers from the same lubricant company, and they will contradict themselves more than once. Engineers. The guys that formulate the stuff. Imagine that.

Prior to the Red Line I added the EOS and no shark bites so far. Might have to market these anti-shark attack rings just yet...

[Formulas]

Its a no brainer to start with good oil specked out for the application old loose flat tappet engines with certain wear formulas 10w-30- 20w-50 vs. new tight direct injection variable valve timing that likes 0w-20... But i am not buying the put a drop of anything else in it and the world is ending narrative ... Don't care about YoUtUbe videos, Internet is full of B/S with dedicated followers

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by Formulas

Its a no brainer to start with good oil specked out for the application old loose flat tappet engines with certain wear formulas 10w-30- 20w-50 vs. new tight direct injection variable valve timing that likes 0w-20... But i am not buying the put a drop of anything else in it and the world is ending narrative ... Don't care about YoUtUbe videos, Internet is full of B/S with dedicated followers

Exactly. Nobody is advocating for using the cheapest, off brand oil you can find and then supplement it with additives. We're talking good oils that are getting a helping hand with additives.

How modern direct injection engines got involved here is a mystery.

[Goatracer1]

The fact that GM said to use EOS with EVERY oil change is puzzling because MOPAR said NOT to use it every time. If I remember correctly they said it could cause bearing damage.

[Schurkey]

GM said in later years that EOS was not for regular, perpetual use.

[locomotivebreath]

Originally Posted by Goatracer1

The fact that GM said to use EOS with EVERY oil change is puzzling because MOPAR said NOT to use it every time. If I remember correctly they said it could cause bearing damage.

Mopar guys started styling their mullets with it and it was found to have caused the birth defects that we see now in the mutants that huddle around neon painted cars at shows .

[Goatracer1]

That's not funny. For the time being anyway Mopar is still making vehicles. That's more than can be said about Pontiac. I have owned Pontiacs for 62 years. (I'm almost 78). I worked for both Pontiac and Chrysler and they both made good cars and crap.

[P@blo]

Let's be real here. The Safety-Kleen is a "good" oil. Just because some guys on forum decide it is not good oil does not hold any water in the real world. I would not hesitate on using any HDEO alone. Maybe you guys can add the "good" oil symbol to my containers? I feel that I would sleep better if you did...

Also, I use the Klondike, Rotella, Delvac, ect HDEO's as they are all "good" oils for a classic Pontiac. And adding zinc to oil has been done since the beginning of time with no issues. There is nothing really wrong with using a LDEO either I suppose.

[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by Goatracer1

That's not funny. For the time being anyway Mopar is still making vehicles. That's more than can be said about Pontiac. I have owned Pontiacs for 62 years. (I'm almost 78). I worked for both Pontiac and Chrysler and they both made good cars and crap.

Mopar has been building some really cool stuff recently. Definitely more than Pontiac lol

I like neon painted cars.

[Steve C.]

Post #2 in this thread.... "If you think you need an additive...you picked the wrong oil."

If interested, here are two more Internet tidbits......

"If you need oil with extra ZDDP, the best procedure is to use oil that already contains the additive mixed in the proper dosage."

https://www.onallcylinders.com/2018/...o%20burn%20oil

Another....

Can you have too much Zinc?

https://www.raceenginesuppliers.com/...-too-much-zinc


.


.

[77 TRASHCAN]

M-move
O-over
P-Pontiac's
A-are
R-Racing

[cmoc-bob]

Excellent article on science and engineering - the ON ALL CYLINDERS link in post #34 below.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by P@blo

The HDEO I use has the API SN rating for use in gasoline engines. Cams and tappets, is there something I am missing here? Also, since I know what the new oil and additive contains, why would I pay someone to have it analyzed? I'd put some scratch on seeing what was going on with the oil after the piss gets beat out of it for a while though....

That's the whole point of having it analyzed. You run it for a while and send in a sample. You don't have to take anyone's word here, or what an oil company says. Blackstone will tell you exactly what that oil is doing in your engine so you can make the necessary adjustments. Just because your concoction has all the sn ratings doesn't mean it's doing a wonderful job in your particular engine.
That's why I say, unless everyone is sending in samples to show how well some oil is doing in an engine this whole discussion is honestly meaningless.

[cmoc-bob]

and as soon as you "mix up" anything, the base additive package is toast.

Go ahead, send in your base SN oil, mix in whatever you want, run it and send the used oil for analysis.

Might surprise you.

[Geoff]

Lake Speed, the Motor OIL Geek, has some good videos on oils.
Scientific testing, not opinion, not guessing.

A very interesting one was a FT cam used with oil that had 1200ppm of Zinc.
Very little wear. Then an 'additive' with 3600 ppm of Zinc was added & the cam/lifters failed not long afterwards.

The moral of the story: get the right oil & do not add additives which can destroy the delicate oil package.

[cmoc-bob]

Lake mentioned when ZDDP was phased out, and all the miracle additives showed up - real problem was the calcium content in the additive
package.

So ZDDP was trying to protect metal, calcium was washing it away.

Now, as the years progressed, plenty of poorly made off-shore flat tappets and cams came into the mix - mostly off-shore and parts re-boxed
numerous times so nobody knows who make one.

One machine shop on YT had a good video on the machine of flat tappet lifters, the cam face. Just poorly done.

Bob