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#1
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Hi all,
I decided to upgrade my convertible with a formula wheel - now I'm probably being stupid with this install - but I can't figure out the horn contact. I had it bolted together once but upon battery connect I got a solid horn, so obviously something wasn't right. For that attempt I positioned the horn "plunger" and little black collar in the hole in the "hub" - then pressed the hub on via the central nut. (Got solid horn sound on battery connect). Now I'm trying with the hub already pressed on - but can't figure out how to simultaneously position the plunger while installing the horn "extender" or whatever its called. I know the assembly diagram shows the plunger and little black collar going behind the hub, but I don't really see how that matters because the plunger fits inside the white plastic "tube" which comes all the way through the hub anyway. (Hopefully this makes sense). Does the little black collar sit behind the hub and steady the plunger somehow? - I noticed it has a "tab" on it that must have a function which I haven't identified. Also - after applying 30 lbs (per spec) to the main nut, there seems to be quite a gap between the column and hub... so I went up to 40 lbs - but there is still quite a gap. Can someone please advise? Thanks!
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration 76 Cutlass Salon, 54,000 original miles. Last edited by getmygoat; 09-22-2013 at 10:33 PM. |
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#2
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the little alum shaft is shorter on the formula wheel. there is a special install kit for the formula wheel that you used to be able to order. was 5.00 bucks back in the day. you should be able to grind the shaft down alittle at a time till you get it to work.
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FREEDOM ISN'T FREE BUT WORTH FIGHTING FOR |
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#3
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Thanks for responding - I did get the formula wheel horn contact kit from Ames... it was $5! But I'm not sure how grinding down the pin would solve it - the length of the pin is absorbed by the spring I think? As the pin pushes into the tube, the spring compresses - my issue is how to hold the pin in position so it a) makes predictable contact with the horn contact "circle" and so it will stay in position so I can lower the horn contact "circle" into position above it. I hope that's clear. Thanks again!
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration 76 Cutlass Salon, 54,000 original miles. |
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#4
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the little black piece you are talking about (didn't see that before) is what holds the shaft down. you push it in the hole and turn it so the tab holds it down. there is a slot in the hole where the spring goes that it fits into.
__________________
FREEDOM ISN'T FREE BUT WORTH FIGHTING FOR |
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#5
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Thanks again for responding - my "tube" with the spring doesn't have a slot for that tab... maybe because my car didn't originally come with a formula wheel?
I'm still stuck on this - can't be this difficult - maybe I'm missing some part?
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration 76 Cutlass Salon, 54,000 original miles. |
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#6
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Do you get a solid horn before installing the horn contact? If so somehow you have the turnsignal cancel cam or horn circuit grounded.
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. ![]() |
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#7
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I know this is an old thread, but I ran into the same problem. The off white plastic “tube” from the turn signal cancel cam doesn’t have the slot for the black plastic collar to turn and lock in. There is nothing to hold the pin in position while trying to install the switch assembly.
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1970 GTO Originally 400, M20, Atoll Blue, PS, PDB, A/C Now has 461 stroke, Keisler RS600 5 speed. Just a fun driver |
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