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Originally Posted by [email protected]

It would actually start the car by jumping underneath or would the starter just keep engaging the fly wheel i am jumping with 2 gauge wire from starter main to s pole lot of juice

How could I check ignition switch or just get one.hard to change?

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Unless you have multiple issues all at once - the ignition switch isn't it.
bdk1976 didn't pick up on the part that you also lost headlights and interior light in the same swing.

All you have is horn .

Crossing the solenoid will spin the starter - but the engine will not fire and run unless you have power to the negative pole on the ignition coil.

If all you want to do is hear the engine run , you can run another jumper wire from battery to the negative side of coil - and then jump the solenoid just long enough to make it start and run.
If you leave the solenoid jumped the starter will try to continue spinning/grinding on the flywheel.

This is what they called hot-wiring a car back when.
When you remove power source from the negative pole on the coil - it will cut the engine off.

We always crossed the solenoid with a hefty screwdriver to spin the starter.

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

How could I check ignition switch or just get one.hard to change?

Your ignition switch has a receptacle on the back side.
Unplug it
Use a test light to see if you are getting a hot signal to the switch.
It sounds like you are not getting power to the switch.

If that is the case ,,,, you have a wiring harness or fusible link issue.
If that jumps over your head , you can hot wire the car and drive it to a mechanic.

[george kujanski]

It would not start the car, just crank it. It will start if you connect the ignition circuit to the battery at the same time. Make sure the car is in neutral (manual trans or auto) or park (auto trans) before you try that tho, because the park safety switch is being bypassed when you jump the ignition to the battery.

If you are unclear, it's best not to fool with it. Be safe.

George

[george kujanski]

If you don't have lights, changing the ignition switch will do nothing for your issue. You have a bad power connection from the battery under the hood to your dash/ fuse box.

George

[242177P]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

no changes except black widow mufflers

I don't suppose, by any chance, an exhaust shop did some welding?

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

I screwed up on where to run the hot wire to the coil .
Run it to the + positive pole on the coil.
They usually have the poles marked with + and -

Very sorry about that misguide !
Negative side goes to the points in the distributor , or to read dwell with a dwell meter.

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You guys are right too much went out at one time.lighrs ,ignition. Finally got 4 days off .gonna trace ignition wires and fuse block not exactly where there would be a fuse link .Just process of elimination I'll check in and take a Pic if I find the problem.can is 18 inches off ground all the way around so I can do some creeping if need be!

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Originally Posted by 242177P

I don't suppose, by any chance, an exhaust shop did some welding?

No sir

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But some good news i ran a jumper wire from my battery to the fuse box and the lites and with the key in on position the car turns over.must be a fuse or a wire ground been sick .when I feel better I will start tracing

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Originally Posted by george kujanski

If you don't have lights, changing the ignition switch will do nothing for your issue. You have a bad power connection from the battery under the hood to your dash/ fuse box.

George

I agree george.the jumper wire from battery to fuse box grooves that

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Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin

Your ignition switch has a receptacle on the back side.
Unplug it
Use a test light to see if you are getting a hot signal to the switch.
It sounds like you are not getting power to the switch.

If that is the case ,,,, you have a wiring harness or fusible link issue.
If that jumps over your head , you can hot wire the car and drive it to a mechanic.

T.y.

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Originally Posted by [email protected]

I agree george.the jumper wire from battery to fuse box grooves that

Proves

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Where would Fus able link be

[turbo69bird]

Last time I had a similar problem on 69 bird it was a bad key switch on the column the one the rod comes down and contacts at your knee level.

[tstroud]

The fusible link is between the battery post on the starter solenoid and the bulkhead connector on stock wiring. It looks similar to a regular length of wire but it is designed to burn in half if overloaded. You may or may not be able to see the insulation damaged but you should be able to pull it in half at the break.

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Originally Posted by tstroud

The fusible link is between the battery post on the starter solenoid and the bulkhead connector on stock wiring. It looks similar to a regular length of wire but it is designed to burn in half if overloaded. You may or may not be able to see the insulation damaged but you should be able to pull it in half at the break.

T.y.

[george kujanski]

On a 67 A body, there is a harness the runs along the top edge of the driver side valve cover. It goes from the alternator output stud to the firewall. The fusible link is in there if I recall correctly. A wire from there also goes down to the starter large bolt.
That's what I remember, I need to check the wiring diagrams.

George

[stellar]

I think you are right George. That is also what I remember. The junction of that wire a couple of feet from the alternator post is also known to deteriorate or corrode. The problem could be right there. Pretty easy fix.