[Squidward]

I've used the Fastrax kit, like this:
https://a.co/d/fQfNbvF

I have the toe plates and tape measures as previously linked above.

I've only ever done toe and camber, and it worked pretty good for that. Castor was too much math, and I didn't have greased tiles or a real level spot.

[VCho455]

I set the car up on blocks. With the turn plates on the fronts I use 10 foot level to check front to rear and side to side. I shim the blocks as needed. I've done it enough times I pretty much have the block setup memorized.

I use Longacre equipment and a pair of 1960's vintage turn plates that weigh about 40 pounds apiece. Ugg! Packing them around is the worst part of the job.

[Bruce Clarkson]

Just another reply with the experience of an amateur:

BTW, I've just purchased a 68 Bonneville but have not checked its alignment yet other than to look at the tires. My experience comes from quite a bit of work on AMCs.

Originally I used strings on jackstands and PVC pipe to do toe-in. It worked but was tedious. I've picked uo a set of simple toe plates. They won't center the wheel for you but make it easy to check or adjust toe in. For small adjustment or checks this is adequate. A quick road test and a little messing about and one can re-center the wheel by making equal and opposite adjustments of the tie rods.

I have a Longacre caster/camber gauge. It works just fine.

Originally, I used pairs of kitchen tiles and grease in lieu of turn plates. (Some form of turn plate is almost necessary.) I got a cheap set of real turn plates from Ebay a few years ago. They were a couple hundred dollars, as best I remember, but make like easier.

Although not as fast to do or as clever as the many thousands of dollars of equipment that the front end shops have, I've gotten great service and tire wear from doing it this way for well over 100,000 miles of long-distance collector car driving.

PS: Do this on a level surface.