[grivera]

I just received a new Kickdown switch from Ames for my 66 Lemans. The moveable part on new switch doesn’t have full forward travel like the old one so the part the is engaged from the pedal arm is too far by a lot. The one I removed has full travel as shown. Is this the case with all replacements?

[grivera]

I searched eBay, and found two different brackets advertised for 66-67 GTO. Mine is like the one pictured without the switch. Does anyone know which is correct?

[60sstuff]

Here is an Original kick down switch on my ‘66 GTO.

[Kenth]

Originally Posted by grivera

I just received a new Kickdown switch from Ames for my 66 Lemans. The moveable part on new switch doesn’t have full forward travel like the old one so the part the is engaged from the pedal arm is too far by a lot. The one I removed has full travel as shown. Is this the case with all replacements?

It looks like the stop on slider on the old switch is worn out?

To adjust the slider, pinch the stop and move the slider (and the inside switch follower) to the end and it will adjust itself the first time you push the pedal to WOT.

[grivera]

Thanks for the pictures - looks like I have the correct bracket. Of note, pinching the stops on the new switch doesn’t work cause there is not enough clearance with the metal casing - and even if I moved there it would definitely get stuck. I tried pinching the stops and sliding it with what I consider a significant amount of force and it didn’t move. I have since heard back from Kyler at Ames tech and he said the replacement switches don’t move beyond the short range. It looks like the old switch was altered so that it could clear and that’s why it gets stuck- the reason for me replacing it. Some pics below of an article covering the very issue I’m encountering.

[Kenth]

The principle of your aftermarket kick-down switch and an original-style switch is the same.
Squeeze the stopper and push the slider to the end.
Install the switch and after the first full throttle the switch is adjusted.
It is easier than you think.
In the article you attached they seem to lack this knowledge.

FWIW

[grivera]

I tried pinching down the stops, separately and both at once and it will not slide past the metal, even with a lot of force. Kyler from Ames tech confirmed what’s in the article after I asked if my new one was defective and to see if others in stock would move the full distance. His response is in the pic below.

[Kenth]

I can't imagine that the one Ames sells would be any different from the original in terms of adjustment to the 0 position?
Take a look at this picture, it shows the hooks/barbs that prevent the slider from moving all the way to the end.
If you squeeze the slider a little, you can move the slider to the end.

[grivera]

The replacement I have doesn’t have those nubs on the side, the stops for the slider are on the same side as the rod and they stop on the edge of the metal. Since it’s a tight clearance, even if you could force it, it would just get wedged under the metal casing. Apparently the old switch was a replacement as well and someone forced it under cause it wasn’t sliding freely.

[Kenth]

Just push the stop, it´s flexible plastic and will not get wedged, and pull the slider to the end of slot.
It´s not rocket science.

After the first wot (adjustment) the stop will rest against the metal again.

[grivera]

I ended up pulling the one off my 69 Lemans, which has full travel, and installed it on the 66. It still required padding the switch lever with heater hose. I haven’t test driven it yet.

[Kenth]

There is no need for rubber tubing on the switch lever if the switch is adjusted properly. GM didn't need to put rubber hose there, did they?

Did you try the new switch?
It may actually work without preadjusting out of the box.
But, if it need preadjusting, it will be done in about 3 seconds.

When everything else fails, relay on the Service Manual:

[grivera]

Have you had a new replacement switch in your hand? The steps you described don’t work on it and the last couple of days of research confirm my experience is not unlike others, even from the vendor who sells it. And tech even mentioned that on 66s, they don’t work without modifications. I installed it out of the box and the pedal arm was no where near it with pedal to the floor. That said, the new switch works in the 69 as the pedal arm engages it well.

The 66 pedal arm makes contact with the rod on the switch from my 69, but only moves it a little, rather than trying to bend the pedal arm, I added the piece of hose so it kicks in a little sooner that WOT.

[Kenth]

If you follow the factory instructions to preset the switch as described in the service manual it should work as intended.

https://www.amesperf.com/parts/23231/

No modifications for 1966 mentioned?

I´m using the GM 1242101 switch (which replaces #1235480 and #3986863) in both my 1966 GTO and my 1970 Judge w/o issues.

But of course, if somethings are wrong with the loud pedal or the bracket for the switch in your car there may be issues?

With that said, i would have REALLY wanted to examine your new switch, unfortunately i´m a bit far away, living in Sweden.

FWIW