[Fullback66]

I want to remove my rear control arms, powered coat them, and install new bushings.
My car is stored right now for the winter. This will be a spring job while still in storage.

Question:
Can I remove the control arm when the car is on jack stands on the frame?
Should I put the jack-stands on the rear axle?
How do I get the old bushing out of the top axle? Special tools?

I plan on doing one at a time so the rear axle will not move.

First time doing this.
Thanks
FB66

[b-man]

You’re going to need to remove the rear axle assembly.

There will be nothing keeping the rear axle in place with no control arms, you will need access to the upper bushings in the rear axle to replace those.

Trying to leave the rear axle floating in there isn’t the way it’s done.

I know disconnecting the emergency brake cables, rear brake hose and driveshaft might seem like a lot of work but it all can’t be avoided.

It’s just a series of small jobs and it’s really not that difficult. You just need some sturdy jack stands under the frame just ahead of the control arm mounting points and a good floor jack.

[Scarebird]

It was quite a while ago but I made a tool from schedule pipe to press out and replace those upper bushings. This was on a 68 Cutlass, and did it while it was in the car. I made a cradle out of 2x6's with vee notches.

They also sell these presses:



Lube for the threads and AeroKroil on the bushing sheathes are a must.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by b-man

You’re going to need to remove the rear axle assembly.

There will be nothing keeping the rear axle in place with no control arms, you will need access to the upper bushings in the rear axle to replace those.

Trying to leave the rear axle floating in there isn’t the way it’s done.

I know disconnecting the emergency brake cables, rear brake hose and driveshaft might seem like a lot of work but it all can’t be avoided.

It’s just a series of small jobs and it’s really not that difficult. You just need some sturdy jack stands under the frame just ahead of the control arm mounting points and a good floor jack.

Thank you for the information!!

[Fullback66]

Thank you very much!
I will keep it in mind.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by Scarebird

It was quite a while ago but I made a tool from schedule pipe to press out and replace those upper bushings. This was on a 68 Cutlass, and did it while it was in the car. I made a cradle out of 2x6's with vee notches.

They also sell these presses:



Lube for the threads and AeroKroil on the bushing sheathes are a must.

Thank you!

[rockdoc]

I did this quite a while ago on my '67 using guidance from the forum, and I did not remove the rear axle assembly. I had no problems and did it by myself. I also made one of the tools using pipe like Scarebird did. It worked, but not very well. If your local parts stores carry loaner presses, I would go that route.

[Kenth]

For such job as replacing bushings i pull the axles, loosen the backing plates and brake lines at the tubes and rear end cover and hang them aside in steel wires, leaving parking brake cables and brake lines before lowering the rear axle.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by rockdoc

I did this quite a while ago on my '67 using guidance from the forum, and I did not remove the rear axle assembly. I had no problems and did it by myself. I also made one of the tools using pipe like Scarebird did. It worked, but not very well. If your local parts stores carry loaner presses, I would go that route.

thank you

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by Kenth

For such job as replacing bushings i pull the axles, loosen the backing plates and brake lines at the tubes and rear end cover and hang them aside in steel wires, leaving parking brake cables and brake lines before lowering the rear axle.

Something to think about. I am trying to avoid this

[242177P]

Unless you're doing the powder coating yourself, doing them
one-at-a-time is going to add up real quick. $$$. Just pull all
of the control arms at once and be done with it. Keep the jack
under the diff, when the housing only sits on jack stands the
pinion will try to rotate the whole assembly nose down. And
before having bushings pressed, sand the openings some.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Unless you're doing the powder coating yourself, doing them
one-at-a-time is going to add up real quick. $$$. Just pull all
of the control arms at once and be done with it. Keep the jack
under the diff, when the housing only sits on jack stands the
pinion will try to rotate the whole assembly nose down. And
before having bushings pressed, sand the openings some.

I will be doing everything. Sandblasting, powered coating. Pressing the bushings.

I never done it before. I am just trying to find the best way. Also tips from guys who have done this before. What they recommend, and what they would not do the next time.

The hard part will be the bushings on the differential.

Thanks for your feedback
FB66

[242177P]

Originally Posted by Fullback66

The hard part will be the bushings on the differential.

Nah, it sounds like you got this. I've removed uppers
in-car with an air chisel. Just collapse the outer shell
of the bushing in on itself as you're driving it out and
it'll come loose.

[242177P]

Also, the guy who pressed my bushings tweaked one arm
ever so slightly, it's purely cosmetic. Seen folks saying "use
a piece of exhaust tubing as a spacer". Might be helpful, or
not. Dunno.

[Fullback66]

Originally Posted by 242177P

Also, the guy who pressed my bushings tweaked one arm
ever so slightly, it's purely cosmetic. Seen folks saying "use
a piece of exhaust tubing as a spacer". Might be helpful, or
not. Dunno.

Thanks for your input.
I plan on doing this when it warms up.
FB66