[skunkfunk]

I'm currently daily-ing my 1967 Executive. I think the blower is out, as it blowed very strong for about a second and then quit altogether when I last tried the AC. Fuse is fine. Need to diagnose it, but I'd like to have the suspected part on hand and just return it if not needed since the removal is a bit of a bugger.

When did this become a specialty part I have to go to Ames for? Only Advance of the big 4 auto stores in my area shows it at all, and it's "unavailable" and quite expensive.

Do I want "with wheel" or "without wheel"??

Just trying to knock this out all at once, can't have it apart more than one evening! Thanks!

[OG68]

All speeds or just high?

If all speeds, remove the Resistor block from the outside AC housing and inspect the resistors. The Dk Blue wire from the resistor panel feeds the blower motor.

If all looks good, run a 12 volt jumper wire from the battery to the dk blue wire to check the motor.

Did you check both fuses?
30 amp high speed blower fuse at the alternator
20 amp heater control fuse at the fuse panel.

Check the Master and High Speed blower relays for corrosion, loose or burn't wiring. .

The blower motor may have a metal 'Squirrel Cage' wheel. A new one will be plastic. To order with or without the wheel will depend on what the old one looks like when you remove the blower motor. They are fairly easy to R/R if needed.

Chapter 1B in the Service Manual provides detailed instruction on how to replace the blower motor. You will have to remove the passenger side inner fender and hood hinge to access it
or
Cut a hole in the inner fender for access.

For the average non-professional mechanic, this will definitely take longer than "one evening"

[skunkfunk]

Oh wow, I didn't notice that 30A fuse on the diagram. Looked at the diagram for my 69 GTO instead, should have pulled the right book. Definitely need to check that...

I don't think that diagram you've shown is quite the right one. I pulled off a relay and one tab broke, and applying voltage to it makes the AC clutch go. I can also make the blower blow, so that turned out *not* to be the problem. It's either that 30A fuse, or the switch, as you say.

Glad to know that's more of a "Weekend" job than an "evening" job. I haven't had to remove the inner fender on this one, I suppose that's a bigger deal than it sounds like.

Thanks for the helpful reply!!

[OG68]

The Pontiac (B Body) diagram was from the '67 Service Manual.
Do you have ATC (Automatic Temperature Control) ?

[skunkfunk]

Not familiar with that term. I have blower selector, buttons for off normal inside and maybe defrost, and another knob that changes the indicator between red and blue.

Studying the diagram some more, it looks right to me this time. I believe what I pulled off (and accidentally broke a tab from) was the "master relay".

[skunkfunk]

It is, in fact, that fuse!

Unfortunately I snapped the fuse holder. So now I need to cobble together a fuse holder, and get this relay with a broken spade back on there somehow. But that'll be *way* easier than replacing the motor!

[OG68]

ATC is a fully automatic HVAC system. You set a numerical temperature rather than a sliding scale from cold to hot or from blue to red in your case.

[OG68]

Ames has a replacement relay
https://www.amesperf.com/parts/13865/

[Goatracer1]

I worked for Pontiac when these cars were new or just used cars. The factory came out with a fix for the fuse at the alternator. We replaced the 1 (single) 30 amp fuse with 2 (two) 20 amp fuses in parallel. This did not affect the wiring and kept the fuse from over heating. The problem was not with the 30 amp fuse being over loaded but with the fuse HOLDER being over heated.