67-69 Firebird TECH Includes 69 TA.

          
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  #21  
Old 11-16-2025, 09:36 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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Yes, this car has PS, PB and Power windows! Who is ‘they’ (have been trying to narrow down some date ranges for the half clear steering wheel’?

My trim tag date is 03C.







QUOTE=Baron Von Zeppelin;6591582]I see custom trim clue with the dash grab handle.
- also see power windows, floor clock, column shift

RJP_Gen1 , could you do a picture of your trim tag ?
They have been trying to narrow down some date ranges for the half-clear steering wheel.[/QUOTE]

  #22  
Old 11-16-2025, 09:54 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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It’s tough to know exactly where the leaks are coming from. I’m certainly concerned about scope creep! I remember (long ago) removing the engine from a 66 Mustang convertible. Ended up painting the whole car before the engine went back in. Major scope creep.

I really don’t really want to touch this car, but after reading these comments, I’m now concerned about old freeze plugs, nylon timing gears, and other potential problems. I must admit, the car runs greats and seems like a low mileage car. Odometer reads just under 25000, but I have nothing to validate the actual mileage). The first owner had the car for 40 yrs before passing away. His brother owned it after that.

Even the brake drums seem to have original date codes (B 5), which seems correct for a 03C car.

Did anyone notice the picture I posted of the rear leaf spring decal? That ‘decal’ wrapped around the leaf springs matches what (I believe) was put there by the factory. That’s pretty cool.

Another fun fact - I found one of those old magnetic key holders under the hood (below drivers fender) with a second set of original keys and a few coins from the late 60s (presumably for making a payphone call). That’s also pretty cool.

Just a great old (mostly original) First Gen. 😀




Quote:
Originally Posted by dataway View Post
Wonderful car, I'd only be doing what is absolutely necessary to keep it running well.

I'd only be replacing gaskets if it's an absolute fact you KNOW exactly where the leak is coming from.

Mission creep is very hard to avoid once you dig in to a certain point.
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  #23  
Old 11-16-2025, 09:59 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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Baron,

I’m not a body/paint expert. I speculate that the driver’s front fender may have had paint work, but there are some fine spider line indicating maybe lacquer from many years ago. I see no overspray on weatherstrip or molding, etc. I wish there was an easy way to tell if it was painted….maybe paint depth meter?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron Von Zeppelin View Post
If the body had a repaint , repaint the engine.
Bonafide factory exterior paint - don't paint engine.

Intake manifold gaskets will be the only ones that will really show as new ,
doesn't sound like you need to pull the intake.

You'll be a lot happier with the car if you fix all the leaks.
I'd want the engine out to remove the exhaust manifolds.

  #24  
Old 11-16-2025, 10:26 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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Yes, custom trim option 259-Z on trim tag.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Cammer-6 View Post
Custom trim option ?
Build month?

  #25  
Old 11-17-2025, 12:43 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Cammer-6 and a few others have been chasing build dates on 67 Bird survivor cars with half-clear deluxe wheel and full-color deluxe wheel.
Trying to find rhyme or reason.

  #26  
Old 11-17-2025, 01:23 AM
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Of all the things mentioned, I'd place the timing chain set as kind of a must do. If it still has a nylon gear it is going to fail. And of course if it fails the right way (or wrong I guess) it can cause considerable damage.

I'd try to put it back together as original as possible, with just enough cleaning to do the job properly.

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  #27  
Old 11-17-2025, 02:41 AM
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242177P 242177P is offline
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Looks like the LH wire loom found it's way over to the right.

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  #28  
Old 03-07-2026, 01:30 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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I thought it would be nice to provide an update to my original post regarding my 67 400 Convertible 'survivor' question.

Many of you gave me some solid advice (and concerns) about timing gears, freeze plugs, etc. Since the engine has low mileage but was never removed, I decided to pull the motor and make one;y the necessary improvement without major overhaul. Someone said it best....if it ain't broke, don't fix it! In my case, I did have many oil leaks and a somewhat blown out exhaust gasket (it leaked on passenger side). SO, we pulled the motor and began addressing only the important items.

Here's a short list of what was done:

Engine:
- New Timing gears and chain
- New Freeze plugs (block and heads)
- New intake, exhaust and valve cover gaskets
- New rear main seal
- New Oil pan and Timing cover gasket
- New (GM repro correct) heater and radiator hoses
- New Fan belts (GM repro correct)
- New Wires (GM repro correct)
- Flushed engine and radiator (several times), new coolant
- New motor mounts
- I did NOT touch rings, bearings, etc. The main bearings and cylinder walls look excellent


Tranny & Differential:
- New gaskets/seals
- New Tranny filter
- New tranny mounts
- New Diff gaskets and lube

As you can see from the pictures, I decided to paint the engine. It would have looked pretty odd with new gaskets and freeze plugs without proper paint. I used Bill Hirsch paint for the engine. I waited over two weeks before starting engine (to avoid any curdling).

Notice that I DID NOT paint the firewall, etc. I did not intend to start a concours restoration. Instead, I wanted the car to be as original as possible (even considering the engine paint).

She's now running and back on the road. I can't wait for the snow to meal here in New England so I can take her for a long trip.

In the end, I think I did the right things and tastefully protected the original drivetrain without changing the character of the car's originality. Some may agree or disagree with my decisions, but that's okay. I did what I thought would help protect the longevity of this wonderful car.

Thanks again for all of your input and suggestions.

PS: I should also mention that I went with the two piece rear main seal. I considered the rope seal, but in the end decided to go with the two piece. Time will tell whether it was the right decision
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Last edited by RJP_Gen1; 03-07-2026 at 01:36 PM.
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  #29  
Old 03-07-2026, 01:42 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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a few more 'before' photos
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  #30  
Old 03-08-2026, 06:30 PM
will slow gto will slow gto is offline
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Always nice getting these updates and it sounds like you did some great improvements. You did have the original nylon tooth timing gear so you were wise to open it up and replace that. 66-70 Pontiac silver blue engine paint is such an amazing color I can’t fault you for the repaint. One thing just to check is the original motor mounts may still have e some life left and are far superior to the generic parts store replacement (Anchor) which use metal about half as thick as the originals. Ames sells some repop rubber motor mounts for about $110 which are closer to the quality of the originals.

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  #31  
Old 03-19-2026, 02:20 PM
RJP_Gen1 RJP_Gen1 is offline
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Thanks for the feedback. I keep ALL of the original parts, including the original motor mounts. I will give them a solid look to see how much life is left. When the motor is out, it just seemed like a good time to swap them out, but I agree that it's hard to beat the original equipment.








Quote:
Originally Posted by will slow gto View Post
Always nice getting these updates and it sounds like you did some great improvements. You did have the original nylon tooth timing gear so you were wise to open it up and replace that. 66-70 Pontiac silver blue engine paint is such an amazing color I can’t fault you for the repaint. One thing just to check is the original motor mounts may still have e some life left and are far superior to the generic parts store replacement (Anchor) which use metal about half as thick as the originals. Ames sells some repop rubber motor mounts for about $110 which are closer to the quality of the originals.

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