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#21
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Same here . Wasted much time & money on Petronix and finally went back to points & my original coil . Runs excellent I I had to wire in a small ballast resistor and mounted it on the coil bracket but was back jumping over pop bottles in no time .
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#22
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I put an inexpensive "Skip White Racing" HEI in my car back in 2010 when they were all the rage. My old Delco had worn out the bushings and had developed an excessive amount of end play causing spark scatter (high RPM miss).
At that time the distributors came in a box marked TSP (Top Street Performance) and were considered one of the more reliable import HEI distributors. I ran it for 10 years with only an advance spring change. For no particular reason, I recently replaced the internals and cap with NOS Delco parts and I expect continued trouble-free service from it.
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Triple Black 1971 GTO |
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#23
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Quote:
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#24
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Here's part of the Grok description of DUI:
DUI (Davis Unified Ignition) Performance Distributors are widely regarded as highly reliable, long-lasting electronic HEI-style units with decades of positive real-world feedback from street, strip, marine, and off-road users. hotrod.com Key Reliability HighlightsProven track record: In business since the early 1990s, DUI distributors earn consistent praise for durability. Many users report 10–20+ years of service with minimal issues. Common feedback includes "stone cold reliable," trouble-free operation in hot climates (e.g., Arizona), and strong performance without external boxes or complex wiring. classicbroncos.com User experiences: Forums like CorvetteForum, Chevelles, Ford-Trucks, and others frequently describe them as "flawless," with benefits like improved throttle response, cleaner exhaust, better idle, and strong spark. Long-term examples include 14+ years with only routine cap/rotor maintenance, or 20+ years on Broncos with just one module replacement after 15 years.
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70 TA, 467 cid IAII, Edelbrock D-port heads, 9.94:1, Butler HR 236/242 @ .050, 520/540 lift, 112 LSA, Q-jet, TKX (2.87 1st/.81 OD), 3.31 rear https://youtube.com/shorts/gG15nb4FWeo?feature=share |
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#25
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I have installed probably 2 dozen pertronix 2 kits in points distributors over the years I always buy the matching coil. I have not had a single failure. The one in my 69 Camaro has been trouble free for 17 years now. I was surprised to see guys havening problems with them. I was going to buy one of their HEI distributors for my current 400 stroker engine but after reading this, I'm having second thoughts. I know you can have problems if you don't run a full 12 volts to them and you have to use a coil with the correct resistance. Are these problems something that has come up recently?
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| The Following User Says Thank You to BAMiller For This Useful Post: | ||
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#26
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A MSD pro billet knock-off with an MSD programmable 6AL 2 is about the same cost as the Progression, and gives you more flexibility. Very little to go wrong on the dizzy, and the electronics have been hammered out over decades.
The Summit knock-off is $190, 6AL 2 is about $400. Problem with HEI's is the coil-in-cap. They heat up and go bad pretty often, and can cause gremlins that will frustrate even a seasoned hot rodder. Go to a standard type external coil and your' choices are near endless. Many can't use HEI's because of the size, or don't want to because of the size. And of course there are issues with the modules, and don't get me started, I know how many say it's the best thing since sliced bread. Programmable is nice for a number of reasons, one, it does what you tell it to, and you don't have to 'send it off for a curve'. The 6AL 2 uses a number of types of MAP sensors, readily available at just about any parts store. GM type replacement MAP sensor are like $30, can even carry a spare if you wanted. The 6 AL 2 can be used with just about any dizzy, points, mag trigger, hall effect, even crank triggers. Not sure why so many are reluctant to not go this route, simple logic says it's a winning combo. Look how many are using it and you will see it's reliable and heavily supported. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
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#27
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HEI and MSD ignition systems are fine if you are unable to modify the carb to deliver proper amounts of combustible mixtures, f.e. with the use of low compression, EGR or camshafts making weak vacuum signals and lean mixtures at idle/low speeds. Add to that the ethanolblended fuels.
Don´t forget all the Pontiac High Performance V8´s from the 1955 to 1974 were using points distributors and most of the 389-421 HO/Tri-power, 400-428 HO/RA, 455 HO/SD engines ran pretty good with the points. As did all the other 100´s of millions cars using points ignition systems. With the carb up to par for the hot camshaft and todays fuels there is NO reason to replace a well functional mechanical ignition system with some electronic gizmo that may leave you on the side of the road. JMHO |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Kenth For This Useful Post: | ||
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#28
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Like anything else you’ve ever dealt with in life…
9 out of 10 times the cheap widget just doesn’t seem to make the grade over the more expensive correctly spaced widget. A custom built to your application unit is gonna be hands down your best bet no matter the flavor. You pretty much answered your own question with the first two that went in the engine. Especially the first one. ALL of these aftermarket distributors built in the last 20 years with the exception of DUI and maybe that profession thing , don’t have grease in the top to lube correctly the top bushing. Not sure about the progression thing and not gonna take one in here at shop anyhow, don’t care how good or bad it’s supposed to be or not be. I don’t think anyone mentioned a custom built unit you may already have. One with the right parts fitted tigether correctly so as not to end up with a sub par unit even before you take it out of the box. I guess those days are in the past but it’s still a very viable option anyhow. The less electronic gadgetry there is in the deal the much better off you’re gonna be. It’s always been that way.always will be. |
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#29
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Does anyone recognize these points, advertised as NOS in a box that allows like Delco-Remy (fooled me)but not quite. I bought two sets on eBay for my 69 Lemans. One set is installed, with an AC Delco cap and rotor. Just wondering if they arw considered decent points.
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress ‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here: https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb |
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#30
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This will fix your problem. You will love how well it all works and the reliability.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/23659022733....SIM%26mech%3D And https://www.ebay.com/itm/26744544544...C18cvSGrpUiue6 Hi-6 boxes are made in the USA, nice stuff. Will get you the same performance as MSD stuff for 1/2 the price. There is a brand new one for 300 $ Built in rev limiters, no chips. I bought my brother a cast iron sbc distributor for 15$ and a HI-6 for 75$ years ago when he was having HEI troubles on his bracket car. They ended the problem. This Crane box looks almost new but does not say "tested good". There are others that say tested good but might not look as nice or cost a little more. |
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#31
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This one is even cheaper and says nice shape, ready to go.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35635464748...Bk9SR47-uIeoZw |
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#32
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I'm in that camp with a couple of cars. Stock points distributor with a custom curve and modified vacuum advance triggering an msd box.
This is my favorite setup simply because it's damn near failure proof. If the box fails I switch wires on the coil and drive off on the points. Couple of other cars are points only and I don't have a single complaint. Couple of them have had the same points in them for over 20;years. They rarely ever need adjusted, I just check them once a year with the dwell meter, takes about 10 seconds |
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#33
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I have a Crane Hi-6 box on the shelf - how does one test them?
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird, 400/461, 290 Eddy D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears '69 LeMans Vert, XS 350, #47 heads, TH400, 10 Bolt 3.23 gears, work in progress ‘66 Lemans, 455, 310 KRE D-Ports, HR 236/245, TH400, GV OD, 12 bolt 3.73 gears - see it here: https://youtu.be/RP_s1wJKm_Y?si=K0NZxoTyaGcj8Dcb |
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#34
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Good question and what do you do for wiring if it’s missing?
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1972 GTO |
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#35
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The Gold Standard for a bunch of years running, add a high quality box to it if you just can’t stomach the idea of a lowly set of points….
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Sun Tuned For This Useful Post: | ||
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#36
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https://static.summitracing.com/glob...-6000-6400.pdf
They do have a green/red power light that comes on when they get 12V. Not a full test but at least you know if it powers up. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Dragncar For This Useful Post: | ||
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#37
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That iron distributor in my link is a 66 model. Last year of iron distributors ?
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#38
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Lots of good advice here, thanks a lot! I will try to purchase a stock points distributor and the Hi-6 box... Just not always so easy to find a seller willing to ship overseas fromt eh US...
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#39
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I bet everyone on this thread has a daily driver with electronics in it.
The goal for the recommended box was for being able to program the curve, not to make up for any lack of carb tuning. You grab a 50+ yo points dizzy from eGay, you're going to have to check everything. Shaft for wear and straightness, ensure the proper parts are being used and are all there, ensure the body & bushings aren't worn out, and you still have to dial it in with weights & springs. Sure everybody at one point or another have found you can't just throw any 'ol weights & springs in there and expect it to run properly. Plate/weight mismatch, springs w poor tolerances, RPM creep/drift of timing, plate stops, vacuum can issues/adj/limits, and you still have to find a good set of points or HEI module. If you want to trust 15+ yo used electronics over a new MSD unit, then more power to you. But to comment, that's a considerable higher risk for failure than a new MSD box. I guess it would be 'ok' for a weekend cruiser with an occasional WOT blast w max 5500 RPM, but it's not going to cut it for something you want to drive a lot and long distances. And I'm not talking about that one summer event you want to cruise to 2 hours each way to, I mean potentially 1000s of miles within a week or two. Try a Power Tour. That will shake out a car. I know it flushes out all the people that are still fine with driving on 10 yo tires. Like I said, so many are reluctant. At least some are switching over the EFi... .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
| The Following User Says Thank You to HWYSTR455 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#40
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Quote:
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