[thirtypointer]

I plan on adding a set of Edelbrock no hop bars to my 65 which is equipped with a 10 bolt BOP rear end. When I tested fitment with the factory upper control arm still in place, it appears the Edelbrock anti-hot bar will not work with the BOP without quite a bit of modification? In the attached picture, the blue arrow points to where I believe the anti-hop bar is designed to fit around a fin on the differential, which does not lineup with what I have.

Have any of you installed the anti-hot bars on a similar rear end?

Thanks,
Dan

[steve25]

Have you up graded to poly control arm bushings yet?

I know you have those bars, but I would do the bushings first.

[Scarebird]

Originally Posted by steve25

Have you up graded to poly control arm bushings yet?

Bad idea in the rear arms - will bind them up.

Is there a threaded hole on the bottom finger of the bracket? It may be the one to use to clamp to the web.

[steve25]

Not when there lubed as they should be.

[3X24SPD]

I have never used the Edelbrock version- but I have installed 3 sets of the Genuine Suspension & Lakewood versions on 65-66 GTOs.
To install them on a 10 bolt, there is a bit of grinding (but only on the LS bar) that will be necessary to clear the housing rib. You can see why on the 3rd pic attached.

[thirtypointer]

Originally Posted by 3X24SPD

I have never used the Edelbrock version- but I have installed 3 sets of the Genuine Suspension & Lakewood versions on 65-66 GTOs.
To install them on a 10 bolt, there is a bit of grinding (but only on the LS bar) that will be necessary to clear the housing rib. You can see why on the 3rd pic attached.

Thanks. That’s what I wanted to hear! I just did not want to get too deep into it just in case it. Mine look similar to yours. Did you notice any change in traction with the three installs

[Formulajones]

I use the Eddys on mine, and I put the Lakewood version on Dad's car.

Both do the same thing.

Yes it has made 60 foot times more consistent and the cars more predictable. They work great for drag radial applications where you want separation.

Over time I took them a step further with adjustable upper bars and double adjustable shocks so I could fine tune things. As I added more power I found I needed more rebound control to slow the separation down.

[67drake]

FWIW, I did use the Edelbrock no hops on an 8.5 years back. I remember I had the same concern, as they didn’t really fit out of the box. I had to do some grinding on the rear end housing and no hops to get them to fit.

[AG]

You can't test fit it with the upper control arm on and the bushing in the rear. You need to unbolt the upper control arm and remove the bushing in the rear.

[ANDYA]

I just went through this recently with a 12 bolt rear out of a 65 Chevelle that’s going into my 65 GTO. After doing some research I went with the TA Performance no hop bars. They are very nicely made out of 3/4” thick steel with nice welds. Just like every other brand I had to do some grinding on the rear and also on the bars. The idea is to grind strategically to remove as little material as possible. When I was done the bars looked like they came that way and what I did to the rear was unnoticeable.

[thirtypointer]

Thanks Drake!

[thirtypointer]

Originally Posted by AG

You can't test fit it with the upper control arm on and the bushing in the rear. You need to unbolt the upper control arm and remove the bushing in the rear.

True. Just getting a looksie before diving in. Have you installed any?

[SRGN]

I'd be more worried about dead hooking with a stock-ish 8.2 10 bolt. The 8.5 10 bolt out of a 71-72 Skylark is considerably stronger. Ran one in my old bracket car for a few seasons without issue, high 1.6 60' times. If it was faster I would have done axles, but I didn't have any issues with the stock 28 spline stuff. My GN also had an 8.5, 60' in the 1.4s but I did axles in that car. Both cars ran boxed lowers with poly bushings, stock upper arms.

[3X24SPD]

I use wagon rear coil springs in all my 65-66 GTOs.
This drastically changes the rear suspension geometry- and makes a car even more susceptible to wheel hop.
The No-Hop bars, as can be construed from the name- cure that.
I also use Hotchkiss Upper & Lower Trailing Arms & Sway Bars.

Here's a good thread you can read on the subject:

https://www.v8buick.com/index.php?th...p-bars.395276/

[AG]

Originally Posted by thirtypointer

True. Just getting a looksie before diving in. Have you installed any?

Yes, I've installed them on a couple of 12-bolts and two 10-bolts. I've had to machine some of them to fit properly. First set was from HO Racing and they fit well. In my experience, they completely eliminated wheel hop and work very well.

[thirtypointer]

Thanks everyone for the advice and pictures. We were able to get the anti-hot bars installed today. My experience was the same as what you all reported as thry required some fabricating and such. The old bushings of course were there to get out. Can’t wait to get it to the track to try it out. The control arms definitely sit a lot higher!

[AG]

Check and adjust your pinion angle as necessary now. You will be glad you installed these.