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#1
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Hey everybody,
Almost an embarrassing question – fighting transmission leak which the best I can come up with his from the pan and replaced the stamped with a high-quality aluminum pan and fasteners and a thick gasket neither paper nor rubber all of these new came from advanced transmission – Bruce who builds racing transmissions for most of the guys racing at Eddyville dragway. I am using B&M synthetic. Everything including the pita pan which required quite a bit of modification as well as the safety straps for the TCI transmission shield – but I had tightened the pan lightly and added fluid but did not tighten or run the transmission so the fluid began to leak. I've tightened it a couple times and I don't know how far to go and question once it leaks will it not recover without complete disassembly and replace fluid and and gasket? Thanks guys appreciated |
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#2
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I had pan leak issues. Bought a heavy cast pan and used the beige fiber gasket, dry. Got some new SS 5/16 bolts and SS flat washers. I put Ultra grey on both sides of the washer and on the threads. Let it sit overnight before filling, no leaks.
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#3
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I have never had a gasket of any kind leak ( even on the most flimsy of steel pans ) for over 50 years once I have run a small bead of gasket maker on both sides of the gasket and let it set up some for 35 minutes, or until it’s well skinned over before bolting it on.
But both the pan rail and trans side must be 100% free from oil. You will need a crow bar to bust the pan free after doing it this way!
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! Last edited by steve25; 04-20-2026 at 04:38 AM. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to steve25 For This Useful Post: | ||
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#4
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When I was having leak issues I went to the local transmission shop and asked the owner what he used. I knew him from the 80s.
He handed me one of those fiber gaskets on the house and said, dry. That is how they come from the factory and they don't leak. I did not have any luck with silicon on both sides of a cork gasket. Those fiber gaskets are sold by ATI. |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Dragncar For This Useful Post: | ||
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#5
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Follow Steve25 guidance and use this product.
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#6
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Thanks everybody appreciate it.
I'm going to give it one more try with the transmission gasket maker through the bolts one by one and if that doesn't fix it I will start over again with a new clean gasket. Take care. Craig |
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#7
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Quote:
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#8
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turbo 400
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#9
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Are you still using a factory dipstick and dipstick tube? This might be a long shot, but do check into this as my 1968 GTO had a Turbo 400 leak for a long time that we just couldn't figure out.
One day, I met a Cracker Jack transmission guy and he instructed me to unbolt and remove the dipstick tube (note: not the dipstick itself but rather the tube) and inspect it at the bottom near the o-ring. He told me that over his career he had seen many cracked dipstick tubes. And, voila! This was exactly the problem with mine. I had a hairline crack in the tube. Fixed it up, and no leaks for over ten years now! Last edited by propuckstopper; 04-22-2026 at 01:13 AM. |
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#10
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I had a selector shaft seal almost look like a pan leak at one time. You can get the removal tool and seal from Napa cheap.
But I use the Moroso blue reusable gasket and have been good, i run a deep sump aluminum pan. If your getting picking about tightness, If you have a torque wrench id go 10 ft lbs.
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Illinois Outlaw Gassers 6.27@107 9.97@131 |
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