[tempeonempty]

Inherited a "recently" restored 69 GTO that I don't think was ever driven post restoration. I am trying to get this car into working/reliable order so my sister can take possession and cherish the car as it should be. So I may be asking a few more questions here along the way!

I replaced the alternator because the generator dummy light was illuminated (should have tested first) but anyways I still have generator light illuminated. Battery test at 12.89 volts (battery is new within last year) and I have 14.1 to 14.3 volts with car running with and without some lights, radio, etc. on. What would cause the GEN light to be lit if charging system tests good?

Also, when I first test drove the car backfired at high RPM, I found the dwell at like 10 and timing was at 0, so I reset dwell to 30 and timing to 12 and it seems to run well. (running 91 octane). The problem after I parked in drive way and tried to restart it would not, acting like a heat soak issue. I let car cool about 30min and it was slow turnover but did start....thinking I had a dead battery and related issue to Gen light, but this morning car fired right up cold. Possible I have bad starter too or too much timing?

[1969GTO]

I once had a 65 Tempest with the same light issue, I found a broken ground strap that went to the engine to the fire wall, replaced the strap and the light went out.
Maybe check your ground straps at the chassis to the inner fender passenger side also the strap from the engine to the fire wall.
These are the locations on my 68 GTO and your 69 may have the same locations. Good Luck

[tempeonempty]

Appreciate any and all suggestions. I verified ground straps in place and good continuity. fuses check out good. Still puzzled, maybe try a different regulator

[north]

Based on how you are reporting the voltage at operation and engine off it sounds like the charging system is working fine so probably just something with the gen light circuit itself. Usually it is a grounding fault in the circuit powering the light. Could be a fault in the ignition switch on the steering column, sometimes little bits of metal break loose and cause shorts in the switch. Jiggle the key in the lock cylinder when its running. Alternatively, perhaps it is something with the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. Lastly the bulkhead behind the fuseblock is a common source of issues, especially on a rusty car or one that has had damp storage.

[Tuske427]

Depending on the alternator removed, the one replaced, and how the car was wired it's possible you may need to splice in a diode to the wiring for your alternator that connects to your gen light in the dash. That diode prevents electricity from back-feeding and illuminating your charging light when running as well as any potential run-on issues. the warning light still works when the key on/ engine off. Some articles about it

https://www.hotrod.com/features/si-o...982-1464-114-1

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/alt-1.shtml

[tempeonempty]

I ended up resolving the Gen light issue with a new regulator. I used the solid state version from Ames.

Waiting for a new mini starter and will install that to address hot start issues.

Next item on punch list is oil pressure guage stays pegged. sending unit looked new but I haven't dug into any troubleshooting on that issue yet.

[RAIIIJudge]

I had some charging gremlins early in the season and when I replaced regulator w/ solid state version from Ames, system appeared to charge fine but my GEN light wouldn't go off. I sent it back and picked up one from Napa and have been all good since. I have zero complaints about our sponsor btw.

Make sure your oil pressure sending unit wasnt installed w/ teflon tape, unit needs to ground via housing. Pretty sure once when I forgot to reinstall sender-wire, pressure was pegged?

[tempeonempty]

Questions for those who have installed mini starters. I ordered the IMI high torque mini through ames. when I test fit the starter, I couldn't get the pinion/ring gear spacing to fall into spec as illustrated in the instructions as far as the recommended .100 inch gap from the flywheel. (I may be overthinking this), but I also did not like idea having to cut/splice ignition wire. I'd prefer to keep stock wiring intact... if possible. So ordered a power master starter based on positive reviews in forums and noticed they use a ring terminal on their solenoid. After fitting this starter into place though both the positive battery and ignition wire are too short/won't reach. Sure seems like these aftermarket parts are not worth the hassle? I just dropped 100 some dollars on new "correct" battery cables too. UGH! Should cut and splice wire, install aftermarket battery cables to make one or the other mini starter work? Or just order a reman Delco starter from rock auto for $50?

Also had original rear end rebuild with new gears and posi carrier, with car in air I noticed a leaking axle seal (we put new bearings in seals in too) I thought this was strange but figured maybe just seal got damaged so I get that apart, now noticing a decent amount of debris in the axle tube. I put maybe 20 miles on the rebuilt rear end? I suppose that can't be good and need to tear down the rear end again?