[zippy]

I have a Holley elec fuel pump feeding my Qjet on my 455. Right now, it's on whenever the key is on. So times that I need key on,. but no engine. Rolling windows up, checking lights, just whatever, the pump runs and I don't like it. It's noisy. But after a few days, Gas evaporates and carb is dry. So the elec works great for initial start.
Now my thoughts are a Hobbs sw on oil press, with a pushbutton momentary sw kinda hidden somewhere but accessible. If just ran the car a little while ago, or yesterday, There enough fuel to start no worries, then Hobbswould engage and start the pump. After a week sitting and dry fuel bowl, I can hold switch till I hear the carb fill, fire then hobbs takes over again. And in case of an accident, or stalls idling when im just running back into house, the oil press drops, shutting off the hobbs and the fuel pump relay.

Anyone see any drawbacks?

[tom s]

I have a switch under my dash to turn it on when I need it.I use it when the car has sat like 30 days or so.I turn the key on,turn the switch on and I can tell by the sound when the carbs are full.Turn it off and fire up the engine.FWIW,Tom

[TXSTARFIRE]

I have my fuel pump on a toggle switch. Turn it on before cranking and turn it off when shutting down engine. Holley pump makes a lot of noise so not going to forget to shut it off. Works for me.

[steve25]

There’s no down side to that as long as the momentary switch and its wiring is rated for a few more amps then the fuel pump draws when it’s stalled out which will be the time of the greatest currrent loading.

[Shiny]

Originally Posted by steve25

There’s no down side to that as long as the momentary switch and its wiring is rated for a few more amps then the fuel pump draws when it’s stalled out which will be the time of the greatest currrent loading.

Use a relay to switch the pump current. That way you can use a small toggle or momentary pushbutton switch instead of chasing one rated for the full current. There are lots of "fuel pump wiring kits" that make it easy, like this one:

Link to Example Wiring Kit

They typically include a fuse or auto-resettable breaker so you can wire directly from the battery or similar high-current supply point. You want the relay socketed in case it fails. The wires will be rated to handle whatever the relay can switch so you don't have to worry about it.

[steve25]

Yes the above way also!.

[zippy]

Thx. Yes. Pump is run via relay. So Hobbs will only be on control cct.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Elec Pusher: I use a relay triggered by the HEI power wire, and include the underdash kill wire to GND ( open it to kill relay ).

That also allowed the rear bumper kill to easily 1-wire switch to GND ( open it to kill relay).

Mech fuel pump was active.

These days a fuel regulator is a more than good to implement.

[grivera]

I have this kit on my 66, it primes the pump on RPM signal via tach and then shuts off until you start the engine - much like EFI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNZ05JM...d_asin_title_2

[zippy]

Originally Posted by grivera

I have this kit on my 66, it primes the pump on RPM signal via tach and then shuts off until you start the engine - much like EFI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNZ05JM...d_asin_title_2

Now This I like!!!

[VCho455]

Originally Posted by grivera

I have this kit on my 66, it primes the pump on RPM signal via tach and then shuts off until you start the engine - much like EFI: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BNZ05JM...d_asin_title_2

I've had one of these installed on my daily driver Burban for 10 years now. Works great! The same company makes a wiper delay box that works well too!

https://revolutionelectronics.com/

[grivera]

Very cool!!