[joes455]

I recently purchased a hunter dsp wheel balancer and was looking fwd to mounting some tires to the oem rims and do the balancing myself.I decided to check wheels for trueness before buying tires.Well all 4 wheels had .030 runout inwhich can also be seen as a slight wobble.Were these wheels plaqed with issues from the factory?

[65madgoat]

I wasn't around when new, but everything seen since was or is suspect. With larger profile tires used then or even say 70 series wobbles are less of an issue and likely won't even be noticeable with them.

But honestly they were a bad design and idea new and were not ideal from day 1.

[mgarblik]

.030" lateral runnout is not at all uncommon on steel wheels made in the 1960's and 70's. Total radial runnout of .060" with the tire mounted is also normal with a piece of masking tape wrapped around the center of the tread. I know this might sound crazy given how nice modern aluminum wheels are now. But 50 years ago, these were the commonly accepted specs. I would mount them balance them the best you can and enjoy the car.

You want to really scare yourself to death, mount an 8-lug Pontiac wheel on that DSP balancer. Anything under .100" is a great wheel. That's almost 1/8"!. It was a different time.

You will LOVE your new balancer.

[Formulajones]

Are you using lug centric or hub to mount the wheel.

Those old honeycombs really should be lug mounted for best balance results. Every honeycomb I've had on my balancer has a little runout. I wouldn't worry about .030". It'll balance

[mgarblik]

I forgot to mention one other thing. You said you just bought this DSP balancer. I assume it's used? They did make some in two varieties. 28mm shaft and 40 mm shaft diameters. Make sure your main shaft runs true in the machine, checking with a dial indicator. The 28mm machines are more delicate of course. Total shaft runnout should not exceed .002".

[burd]

It’s a steel wheel, take it to a wheel place, there’s a place that’s been on Woodward sine the 50’s that still does wheels.

[Formulajones]

Every production steel wheel is going to have some run out, they are never perfect. It's a mass produced wheel made as cheaply as possible.
Every single steel wheel I've done, and I've done hundreds, has some degree of runout. Anything short of actually hitting a curb and having a real bent wheel they all balance fine.

If you want near perfect runout you'll have to buy new machined aluminum wheels, cause even new steel wheels aren't always perfectly true.

[burd]

I bought,a set of rally’s, one was bent, 50$ to fix.

[joes455]

Thanks eveyone,I've been fighting vibration in the front with 8" Visque rally2 and on my balancer it has a wobble also with .030 using a magnetic base dial.I use this car to race also and drive about 80 mph to keep up with traffic so any vibration is a nono..I just purchased some balancing beads from amazone.Hope it helps .Yes I know they are lugcentric and I have an adapter.

[joes455]

I don't think so,I can balance the tire to 0 grams,then relocate tire on machine and it will require up to 75grams .

[Formulajones]

The machines will nearly always do that.

I can balance zero on mine and take it off and mount it 180 and get a different result. It's been disturbed. . It doesn't really matter when you get down to it and constantly fiddling with it like that is honestly just getting too anal. Once it's balanced to zero take it off and run it.

If you set the machine up correctly, mount the wheel correctly, put the weights where it told you to put them and it comes back zero, you're done. No need to second guess it.

[TXSTARFIRE]

It would seem to me that something is wrong with the machine or the mounting if the zero balance is not repeatable.

[Formulajones]

Not really. You can move things around and fool the machine. Even the best spin balancer isn't fool proof. Sometimes they will 1/4 ounce you to death, so you start over without moving the wheel or tire and it's fine. But honestly you're not feeling a 1/4 ounce in the car anyway so it's just not worth beating yourself up worrying about this stuff.

If you really want to balance it you need my snap on balancer that balances everything including brake drums and rotors while on the car. That one's fun to use LOL

[mgarblik]

On my Coats machine, once the tire is balanced, it repeats. Then if I loosen the wheel and remount it, most wheels will repeat within about 1/4 oz. Before I balance a wheel with centering cones, I clean the rust off the tapered area in the wheel where the cone will ride. That makes a difference with aluminum wheels which corrode this area badly. Lug centric adapters eliminate this of course.

[joes455]

I have an aluminum wheel that is hub centric and will balance to 0 everytime I relocate it on the 40mm shaft

[67Lemons]

Any modern balancer is repeatable, I haven’t sold a balancer in the last 10 years that I can’t repeat and or add a coin into the tread and see the new imbalance.

If yours is not then it might be the way the wheel is mounted or it requires calibration, most balancers have a built in calibration mode, some require a specific weight or require a known good balanced wheel for the calibration, check the mfr of the balancer.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by joes455

I have an aluminum wheel that is hub centric and will balance to 0 everytime I relocate it on the 40mm shaft

That tells you the machine is in great shape and calibrated. Overall, the Hunter equipment is the best out there IMO. My Coats stuff is one tier lower. Still does a really good job if you take your time.