[John Langer]

Royal purple exclusively in my race engine since 2004

[SRGN]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

And for those that don't know, diesel ZDDP isn't the same additive package as the ZDDP used for gasoline engines. Yes diesel oil usually has more ZDDP in it, but it isn't the same preferred additive package used for gasoline engines. If you ask anyone that deals with lubricants as their livelihood, they do not recommend using diesel oil in gasoline engines as the best choice because of the additional ZDDP isn't the same formula as gasoline ZDDP is, comparing apples to oranges.

Can you get away with using diesel oil in a gasoline engine, the answer is yes, but you're not making the best choice for longevity of FT cams and lifters. There are better suited lubricants available.

Also Shell that makes Rotella, also owns Pennzoii, as well as Quaker State, same parent company owns those 3 major brands, Royal Dutch Shell is the corporation that owns all of the brands.

I use rotella because I prefer the detergent additive package in diesel oil. Keeps things a bit cleaner inside. I use zinc additive in the Pontiac, since it's the only vehicle I have left with a flat tappet cam. I plan on putting a very mild roller in it over the winter, though.

[Sirrotica]

Originally Posted by SRGN

I use rotella because I prefer the detergent additive package in diesel oil. Keeps things a bit cleaner inside. I use zinc additive in the Pontiac, since it's the only vehicle I have left with a flat tappet cam. I plan on putting a very mild roller in it over the winter, though.

FWIW, my lowest mileage vehicle I own is 152,000 miles, highest is 375,000 miles. I use synthetic diesel oil in all my diesels, and API rated synthetic in all the gasoline engines. None of these engines have ever been apart, so how important is the excess detergents in the oil? I do use by pass oil filters to remove all the fine under 40 micron particulate that freely flows through the OEM filters. A full flow filter was never designed to remove fine particulate, and they don't. Most by pass filters remove particulate to 5 microns, and some as small as 2 microns. The fines do more damage to an engine than the coarse particulates do. A by pass filter will extend engine life far better by removing all the particulate than running Rotella in a gasoline engine.

Unless you know the engineering of formulating oils and additives you're better off running what oils are formulated for the intended usage they were engineered for.

The high detergents that you think are good for keeping the internal parts clean will actually wash the ZDDP from flat tappet lifters and cam lobes, and may cause premature failures.

Almost every diesel engine over the last 50 years has roller lifters, so they don't need the ZDDP package for flat tappets. They do need the increased detergents for soot in the oil. You're not using the oil for it's intended usage.

The saving grace is that slow ramp cams of most street cams don't require really stiff springs easing the need for ZDDP to slow cam and lifter wear so you'll likely get by using diesel oil in a flat tappet street car. I wouldn't expect Rotella to survive running a fast ramp cam with stiff springs for an extended period of time.

If you're really concerned about keeping the engines clean internally, run a by pass oil filter system in it instead of the OEM filter system. Leave the Rotella for what it's engineered for, diesels. If you want a clean engine, quit depending on the OEM filter to remove all of the dirt.

In my experience, the filtering of the oil to a high standard is much more important than what high dollar, or inexpensive oil you use.

[Dragncar]

Originally Posted by Nacs Fab

I have a case of Schaeffer's for my first oil change. Switching from Driven GP-1 break in oil.

Which Shaeffers are you running. I run the 5-50 9000 pure synthetic in the race engine and 10-30 7000 blended oil in my Tundra and Volvo.
The old beater Honda gets whatever. For years i ran the old oil from my GTO in it.

[Mean Green]

Rotella 15-40

[mgarblik]

For those out there who are fans of Valvoline VR1. (myself included). Right now, that oil is very difficult to source, especially 10W-30. I was buying it at Walmart and many other vendors finding it easily on the shelf for years. Now there is none at any Walmart in a 200 mile radius of Dayton, Ohio. None of my other vendors can get it either. NAPA can only get it in quart bottles and it's very expensive. I ended up buying several cases direct from Valvoline at their online store. Cost a little more but not too bad. Haven't received it yet but supposed to be on the way. Just a heads up.

[Bill Eveland]

Valvoline VR1 20w50. I switched to the Synthetic version, but they also make a conventional version as well

[mgarblik]

FYI: I received my VR1 order today direct from Valvoline. It took 4 business days to arrive. 10W-30 non-synthetic, VR1. It came really packed. Each 5 quart jug had the lid taped. Then an absorbent mat was placed under the jugs. Then the jugs were in a plastic bag. Then placed tightly in an extremely sturdy cardboard box. Cost $6.25 a quart delivered to my door including tax. Not too bad.

[MUSLCAH]

10-30 Valvoline Racing oil...with the zinc

[vertigto]

Didn't Valvoline reformulate the VR1 10w-30 recently and lower the zinc content? That was part of the reason I've moved to Driven HR5, although it is a bit expensive these days.

I thought I remember the zinc/phosphorus levels being higher than 1100/1000 that the specs now say.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...d-48df3793b338

[Sirrotica]

Since I've used Pennzoil since 1977 in everything I own I went to their oil recommendation site to get their take on what oil a 1973 flat tappet 455 should run. Their recommendation was 10W-30 Pennzoil platinum full synthetic, the API rating is SN.

As has been said current oil technology is vastly different and the self sacrificing zinc additives are not the only oil additives that will protect flat tappet cams. The current Pennzoil oils are also much cleaner as they are derived from natural gas rather than crude oil. They resist high temp burn off better as well as keep sludge accumulation to a minimum.

Just because you're running old technology engines doesn't mean that you need old oil technology to protect it.

The offshore lifters using poor quality materials and no crown on the lifter face, as well as improperly ground cams is what caused the mass failures of flat tappet cams and lifters. Since that was the same time that ZDDP additives were lowered, oil was easy to blame. If the parts are made of inferior quality materials, and machined incorrectly, no amount of ZDDP will keep them from premature wear.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by vertigto

Didn't Valvoline reformulate the VR1 10w-30 recently and lower the zinc content? That was part of the reason I've moved to Driven HR5, although it is a bit expensive these days.

I thought I remember the zinc/phosphorus levels being higher than 1100/1000 that the specs now say.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...d-48df3793b338

Yes they lowered zinc in the 10-30 vr1 but that happened several years ago. Unless theyve lowered it again? Wouldn't surprise me. The 20-50 has had more zinc content than the 10-30 for quite a while now. The straight weights are also still high zinc formulas.
Our Napa still stocks shelves full of VR1 Valvoline in all viscosities.

[Region Warrior]

SPEEDdiagnotix.

LS jr has done 10s of thousands oil analysis.
He developed Driven Oil to resist extreme heat at high load rpms.
But claims his and most all racing oils lose shear strength faster then none racing types.
His findings doing 100s durability tests on dyno.
But...doesnt really matter as long as change then more frequently.
What does he use in his family's daily 4cyl turbocharged engines?
Hint...its a shelf brand available everywhere.

Bet Sirrotica knows

[Region Warrior]

Diesel oil made for high surfer fuel.
Is it good for gas engines?
Ask Lake Speed jr...

That said
As for Rolletlla?
My old boss lived on his 38' Carver twin 454s on Lake Michigan(Michigan city harbor)for least 20 summers.
Mid 70s to 90s.
Know cause helped change oil.
Took alot of beer and bourbon.
He liked Cavousia sp?

[Region Warrior]

Bty.
Used straight 30w Valvoline in 400, 428, then 455 since 70s.
Someone said why change...
Never had a bearing or lifter failure.
Went through more 10" wide tires then my chevy ford dodge buds replaced engines and tranys.
Never tracked how many miles or months.
If looks dark or smells bad change it.
Same with atf.

[Region Warrior]

IMP zinc highly overrated.
Did use gm eos with 30w new cam and lifters for break ins.
None that paste goop sledge crap block filter in seconds.
Just 30w after 30 miles burning rubber.
Old school .

Flat cam, good lifters and correct springs(thier usually problem)will break in fine or be furbar1st 5 minutes.
All this have to run 2500 rpm for 30 minutes is bs.