[Cammer-6]

For this project need to flatten blacks. 67 Tempest
interior dash and door tops,frame,inner fenders,radiator support etc.

Has anyone mastered the formulas for flatteners?
SPI no longer gives advise on this.

Seems like there would be a good data base if you consider all the GM cars being restored.

BTW I have all the old lacquer flatteners and formulas,even got dead on with
Ameriflint,which I still have some.

[horik]

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[Entropy11]

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...d.php?t=852836

I can probably dig up more pics or a video of the results. Those pics don’t really give the full effect.

It’s hard to give an exact recipe of what % flattening agent = what % gloss due to application variables (gun type, tip size, spraying style…) . It’s best to just do spray out cards with different ratios and dial it in to what you want. Keep in mind that you can’t spray “wet on wet” and get your desired results. Building another flattened coat on top of a coat that hasn’t had a few days to begin curing will wet out your top flattened coat and you won’t get the desired results. Best way is to spray your epoxy for the coverage you want, then wait a few days (you’ll still be well within your re-coat window) and then do your flattened coat as your top coat. When it is time for the top coat, I would load up my flattened mix, shoot a rather light adhesion/tack coat, then shoot one wet coat on top. The wet coat would be just enough to fully wet-out for coverage. The full flattening effects will set in within the next day or two so you won’t see it all right away after you finish spraying.

For anything on the topside exposed to UV, I just flattened the SPI clear I use instead.

Sorry if I make it sound complicated… basically just make sure you spray your project the exact same way you spray your spray-out cards. After I figured this out on my first car I’ll never go back to that uniform all-shiny frame/underside look. Even if you don’t hit those different flattened percentages you want spot on from one part to the next, it’s the differentiation between the parts that sells the end result. Plus you still have that overall tough as nails SPI Epoxy finish on all the parts when you’re done.

[Cammer-6]

just to be clear,I would use the flattened paint over the SPI epoxy.
SPI black SS and flattener 950-4

[Entropy11]

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

just to be clear,I would use the flattened paint over the SPI epoxy.
SPI black SS and flattener 950-4

Ok my apologies... disregard all that. I wanted the same result but only using epoxy.

[Cammer-6]

epoxy chalks with sunlight exposure
I guess thats why you put clear over it?

[Entropy11]

The SPI epoxy has UV inhibitors in it so there's not really a worry for anything not routinely exposed to direct sunlight beating on it day after day. For the dash/upper door components on some cars I just go with Epoxy/Clear for peace of mind. Only other instance would be the odd under-hood component that needs a higher gloss than the epoxy has alone, so clear helps there.

[skunkwerks]

Use SEM semigloss black on the interior and put a semi gloss clear coat over it.
perfect match to OEM

Use PPG DP 90-black for under the hood stuff and radiator support. it is a perfect match.