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#1
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I've decided, well truth is, I need and bought 3/4" billet alum valve cover spacers so my valve covers clear the roller rocks. I guess I'm just wondering is it just two simple gaskets (common sense), or like RED RTV on bottom and gasket ontop? Anyone that's done this properly without seepage or leaks; Please offer your feedback ...
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'65 GTO Hardtop ![]() 389 .030 400ci Tri Power, .068 cam, HO manifolds, M-20 4 SPD, '70 12 Bolt 3:36 Chevrolet posi-traction, Montero Red, Parchment gut, VINTAGE AIR, PFDB, Bilsteins, F&R HD Sways, Hotchkis rear bags, Firestone Indy 500 shoes "What's the point of owning a muscle car if you can't scare yourself stupid from time to time ?" |
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#2
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I've used them and had great luck with my procedure.
On the head to spacer gasket/o-ring....throw the gasket/o-ring away. Go to your local auto parts store and pick up a can of "The Right Stuff" made by Permatex (I personally like the cheese whizz can). Also buy a bottle of brake cleaner to get all mating surfaces clean of all oils. Once clean, place a small bead of "The Right Stuff around the perimeter of the VC seat, then do the same on the spacer.....on the spacer, you will want to smooth out the bead with your finger.....leave the bead on the head alone. Do this pretty fast because the silicone will skin over fairly quick. Once done, install the spacer as usual. As for the valve covers, clean the gasket surface, lay down a little silicone and install your gasket. Use a rubber gasket if possible. Immediately after laying the gasket on the cover, install the cover and tighten down (DO NOT USE SILICONE BETWEEN COVER AND SPACER). If you do it this way, you will not have any leaking problems at all, assuming you have a strait head, spacer and good valve covers. The silicone is key here. Also, FYI, "The Right Stuff" is some really good stuff. It has been known to make a gasket for a differential cover, and once cured, you can take the bolts out, run it and not worry about a thing. Really good stuff, and I use it on every motor build and anything automotive related. ~Joe |
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#3
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Properly sealing valve cover spacers starts with cleaning all mating surfaces to remove old gasket material, oil, and debris. Just as early childhood education builds a strong foundation for future learning, careful preparation creates a reliable seal that prevents leaks. Inspect the spacers and valve cover for cracks, warping, or damage before installation. Use the correct gasket and apply a thin layer of RTV silicone only where the manufacturer recommends. Position the spacers evenly and make sure the gasket stays aligned during assembly. Install the bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading and ensure proper alignment. Tighten the bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern using the specified torque values. Avoid over-tightening, as this can crush the gasket or distort the valve cover. After the engine has run and cooled, inspect for oil leaks and recheck the fasteners if recommended by the manufacturer.
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#4
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I used a similar method as Kokamo on my 3/8 spacers. I put a small bead of the Right Stuff on the valve cover rail and glued the spacer to the head and held it down overnight with bolts until it set up. Don’t use too much Right Stuff or it will squeeze out everywhere. Whatever did squeeze out I trimmed off flush to the spacer with a razor blade. Once I painted the head and spacer together it was hard to tell there was a spacer on the head. Then I used black permatex to glue a cork gasket to the valve cover, again not too much. Last thing is to put a light film of high temp wheel bearing grease between the gasket and spacer so the valve cover can be removed easily. With a 3/4 spacer the valve cover will be high enough that the oil should not make its way up and leak out the gasket.
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#5
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I did mine just like ANDYA said only difference I didn’t use grease. Check out the picture you can see the spacers if you look.
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#6
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I used a 3/8" spacer and a set of Butler's rubber covered steel gaskets on each valve cover. Using studs instead of bolts held the components in place during assembly. No sealer was necessary and it provided 7/8" additional height for the polylock nuts on the roller lifters.
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