[AMSOILGUY]

Good morning, As described in my introduction thread I have recently acquired a 65 GTO.

Other then doing some google searches and watching online content I don't have somebody walking me through this process. The reason the name fits is because HELP is needed to get this done. If you live in the Midwest and want to physically help OK. If you have knowledge to share I will gladly use that help.

The tear down has begun. 6 body bolts out I think separating the body and frame is where to start?

THANKS!

My goals for H.E.L.P. 1st phase:
1. Driver quality build.
2. Fix cancer
3. LS powered with a power adder. HELP decide which way to go.
4. Pro-touring style
5. Modern suspension with air adjustability. Is Ride tech the only performance engineered option?
6. Original 4 speed car so either a 5-6 speed option is desired because I would like to make some longer drives when completed. Which transmission route to go?
7. Keep an old school feel to the interior but incorporate in some modern comforts to seats and electronics.
8. Not get caught in bodywork prison.
9. Focus on function and reliability before 2nd phase
10. Useable before my 12 and 14 year old's are done with high school
11. Learn some things, have fun!

[kingbuzzo]

For me it was going to cost too much to restore my old bondo basket case so I spent my $ on a better car. Re-body is also an option to skip bodywork hell.

I seen lots of guys going the Tremec route for a 5 speed with good results.

Detroit Speed may be another option for your ride.

Lots of bluetooth radio options available that look stock. If there is already a hole cut in the dash you could get a single din unit or double din floater type - that's what I did.

[AMSOILGUY]

With this being a rescue from my Dad. Yes he has had this project car for 30 years. I have some logistics with titling that I am squaring away. Once that is resolved parts will start to get ordered. I am not going to worry about body work and make the suspension and drivetrain so sweet it will only make sense to finish it. Funds are not unlimited but allocated to get this phase done!

[bdk1976]

If you want advice, the best thing you could do is post pictures of what you are dealing with.

#1 - Get the title situation figured out before you dump time/money into this thing.
#2 - don't start ripping stuff apart until you have a solid plan. Disassembly is the easy part. I own a couple of cars that I bought for next to nothing since someone tore them down and couldn't/didn't put them back together.

Anything is fixable, but you'd better have skills/ambition/time/space and/or a ton of money depending on the starting point.

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by bdk1976

If you want advice, the best thing you could do is post pictures of what you are dealing with.

#1 - Get the title situation figured out before you dump time/money into this thing.
#2 - don't start ripping stuff apart until you have a solid plan. Disassembly is the easy part. I own a couple of cars that I bought for next to nothing since someone tore them down and couldn't/didn't put them back together.

Anything is fixable, but you'd better have skills/ambition/time/space and/or a ton of money depending on the starting point.

Purchase day:

[AMSOILGUY]

Welcome home

['ol Pinion head]

Originally Posted by AMSOILGUY

With this being a rescue from my Dad. Yes he has had this project car for 30 years. I have some logistics with titling that I am squaring away. Once that is resolved parts will start to get ordered. I am not going to worry about body work and make the suspension and drivetrain so sweet it will only make sense to finish it. Funds are not unlimited but allocated to get this phase done!

That is a common mistake by the uninitiated. Am often presented w the ramifications of such early "build" choices. Have seen a TON of project part outs. Early performance A-body projects often present a myriad of surprises in the condition of the body & chassis. It is a must to have a thorough examination of all the trouble spots in the body & have a good idea of what will be needed metal wise.

Frames... first place I carefully check on any '64-72 A-body is the condition of the frame. Not just for rust scaling or rot in the rear section or rust out around front body bushing mounts. The FIRST spot I always examine is the sweep of the frame coming down behind the front passenger side lower control arm rear mounting tab. Having pulled hundreds of GM A-body frames, that area of the curved sweep of the frame is susceptible to stress cracking... and always from the weight of heavier factory engine & accessories torqueing over, very common. In frames from early 6 cyl Tempests & Chevelle 300's have never ran across that issue.

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

That is a common mistake by the uninitiated. Am often presented w the ramifications of such early "build" choices. Have seen a TON of project part outs. Early performance A-body projects often present a myriad of surprises in the condition of the body & chassis. It is a must to have a thorough examination of all the trouble spots in the body & have a good idea of what will be needed metal wise.

Frames... first place I carefully check on any '64-72 A-body is the condition of the frame. Not just for rust scaling or rot in the rear section or rust out around front body bushing mounts. The FIRST spot I always examine is the sweep of the frame coming down behind the front passenger side lower control arm rear mounting tab. Having pulled hundreds of GM A-body frames, that area of the curved sweep of the frame is susceptible to stress cracking... and always from the weight of heavier factory engine & accessories torqueing over, very common. In frames from early 6 cyl Tempests & Chevelle 300's have never ran across that issue.

Thanks for the info. So I think this affirms that separating the body from frame is a must. If things go well this weekend I hope to accomplish this.

[AMSOILGUY]

How's it look?

[The Champ]

Having purchase a '64 GTO Convertible back in 1992 for $600 ('68 400 included, not in car, original Muncie in the trunk, interior trashed, needed floor pans and trunk pans...), I have some experience with what you are faced with.

Unlike you, I wanted it to be Pontiac powered and kept the original M20 in the car. It took 3 years, but in 1995 it was done and I was cruising. I stopped counting when I hit $20,000 - my wife just said 'Get it done so we can have fun.'.

I went with the stock replacement interior, added the console, wood wheel, found a numbers matching properly date coded 389, painted the car the original Cameo Ivory.

I was very lucky that I had two friends that were instrumental in the build. One was my body man and the other was a former GM tech who had his own shop. They allowed me to help where I could and did what I couldn't. As mentioned above, check out the frame. We found a crack right in front of the right rear wheel area.

What some people called a 'basket case', won 2nd place in the '64 GTO Stock Class at the '96 POCI Nationals, in 2001 took 4th place at the GTOAA Nationals and 1st place at the POCI Nationals.

You mentioned the midwest. I lived in western WI when I bought the car and now live in Rochester, MN. If you're familiar with the Iola Old Car Show in WI, my GTO has been a Blue Ribbon Car there since 1997. It has bee a feature car there in 2001 (75th anniversary of Pontiac), 2024 (Muscle Cars were the feature) and just last week (Red, White or Blue Cars were the feature).

I'm telling you all this to let you know it's okay to dream big. My dad sold Pontiacs from 1963 - 1997. The GTO was my DREAM car since I was 9 years old when the first one's hit the dealership.

In 2013 I replaced the 389 with a 30 over 455. I like the new engine.

I've now been driving my dream for 30+ years and have put over 38,000 miles on it.

Future mods may have me pull the M20 out and replace it with Tremec TXK. I would probably go with the 2.87 first gear version with the .68 OD to go with my 3.08 12 bolt rear end. That would give me an effective 1st gear of nearly 9 to 1 vs the current 8 to 1 and a cruising RPM of about 1800 on the interstate. This would be about 1400 on a 55 MPH highway, but my car still pulls fairly strong in 4th gear at 1400.

I wish you good luck with your project.

[AMSOILGUY]

It couldn't have gone much smoother. Fulls days work taking front end apart. Building a cart and get all the body mounts out.

[AMSOILGUY]

Frame body mounts locations look amazing. I see no signs of any damage and I think it's going to clean up real nice.

[johnta1]

Looking good!

[tempest1964]

Very nice! You ain’t messin’ around. Nice shop with the lift and plenty of room to do your project!

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by tempest1964

Very nice! You ain’t messin’ around. Nice shop with the lift and plenty of room to do your project!

I got lucky the wife wanted a double oven. I said I bet I will use the lift more then you use second oven LOL. I belive I do also! Super blessed

[AMSOILGUY]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

That is a common mistake by the uninitiated. Am often presented w the ramifications of such early "build" choices. Have seen a TON of project part outs. Early performance A-body projects often present a myriad of surprises in the condition of the body & chassis. It is a must to have a thorough examination of all the trouble spots in the body & have a good idea of what will be needed metal wise.

Frames... first place I carefully check on any '64-72 A-body is the condition of the frame. Not just for rust scaling or rot in the rear section or rust out around front body bushing mounts. The FIRST spot I always examine is the sweep of the frame coming down behind the front passenger side lower control arm rear mounting tab. Having pulled hundreds of GM A-body frames, that area of the curved sweep of the frame is susceptible to stress cracking... and always from the weight of heavier factory engine & accessories torqueing over, very common. In frames from early 6 cyl Tempests & Chevelle 300's have never ran across that

Lets gain 2 inches!