[Schurkey]

Originally Posted by 67drake

‘61 Olds Cutlass with stock points ignition

Originally Posted by 67drake

Car has spark, fires, but not starting. Fresh points, plugs, condenser. Keeps fouling plugs out.
Thinking maybe I have a spark, but maybe too weak, I dug further into the ignition.
1.5 ohms on primary side of coil, that looks to be in spec.
7100 on secondary side, that appears to be a bit on the low side according to specs for a ‘61 Cutlass 215 V8

What is the resistance from primary windings to ground? Should be "Infinite" resistance--OPEN CIRCUIT, NO CONTINUITY.

AFTER your coil has passed all three resistance checks, it may still be defective. The only way for a typical D-I-Y to know if the coil is good is to get the coil appropriately warm, mist it with water from a squirt-bottle, and see if it will still reliably throw a spark across a spark-tester calibrated for ballast-resistor style ignition. There are multiple designs and even more vendors, but this is my favorite kind:
Pay ZERO attention to the "small engines" claims.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OK6MIO/...=2VLYZKC3HBBDO

DO NOT BUY any "spark tester" where the spark makes a light-bulb glow. You want one where you can SEE the spark jump an actual, calibrated gap.

Originally Posted by 67drake

I’m showing 5.1-5.2 volts at positive side of coil with key in the run position. I read that it should be 7-9, and that 5 could cause a weak spark.

Points OPEN, or points CLOSED? Kinda guessing the points are closed, and your readings are approximately normal.

What is the battery voltage with no load? Should be about 12.6--12.8 depending on battery construction and temperature. 12.5 is 1/4 discharged. 12.0 is near-dead.