[Tripower455]

I've been running this combo for about 5 years, with the mech setup, even in 90+ (common down here in Hell with Palm Trees), it would always run cooler when moving, then creep up at lights. Now, it creeps up as I drive, and cools down slightly if I stop for 10 minutes or so. I think that the electric fan shroud is blocking too much of the radiator, and when moving, the fan is doing all the work. As it stands right now, I might as well remove the DCControls controller, since all it does is turn the fan on at around 180 and runs it wide open until I shut the engine down.

When I go back to the mech fan, the only difference between before and now will be the Griffin. I had a Rodney Red in there before.

Dave, I let my website hosting lapse..... I am moving it to my friend's server when I get around to it!

[old66tiger]

I am liking the 4th gen dual fan setup for the 66 GTO. Just need to see how big it is and if it will work with a non-ac radiator.

Glen, why the Griffin over the rodney red?

[Tripower455]

Originally Posted by old66tiger

I am liking the 4th gen dual fan setup for the 66 GTO. Just need to see how big it is and if it will work with a non-ac radiator.

Glen, why the Griffin over the rodney red?

The Griffin doesn't leak and was less than half the price.

[1967Tempest]

I have had the Griffin in the car for around 9 years +. No issues. Just had the car out for a quick run during me lunch break. 96*F outside car was steady at 185* Started to beat the snot out of her. 195* uphill. Got her home and she started to cool off..

The beauty thing about the FAN ON HIGH. is that when you go through a cool spot, like a tunnel or a heavily wooded area, the car cools off instantly.

Originally Posted by old66tiger

I am liking the 4th gen dual fan setup for the 66 GTO. Just need to see how big it is and if it will work with a non-ac radiator.

I would like to see pictures. I am ALWAYS looking for the next best thing. I have heard that those fans just work. Plan and simple.

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by hgerhardt

Here you go, the pics ain't too good, being at night... but you get the idea. Note that this is a '66 GTO and I have a mid-'70-up long-snout water pump. The original pump would have 1" more clearance. I made brackets from alum angle stock and attached to the fan shroud holes in the core support.

Did you ever post what you running temps were with this set-up? Also, I have the Hollister relay and was curious if I could run the low/one fan high/two fans?

What did you pay for the fans..

Anyone done this with the crossflow rad?

Thanks
Dave

[hgerhardt]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

Did you ever post what you running temps were with this set-up? Also, I have the Hollister relay and was curious if I could run the low/one fan high/two fans?

What did you pay for the fans..

Anyone done this with the crossflow rad?

Thanks
Dave

I used to run this combo with a tube and fin brass rad (incredibly heavy mutha) and it would hardly ever go over 200. And that is with a 428 and A/C. Now it has a Griffin stock-fit rad, but I haven't driven the car with it yet. I got the fan assy out of the Recycler (don't even know if that still exists) for $150 back in 1998. I also only run the fans full-speed. With the 3" exhaust, you can hardly hear them on Hi speed. The Motec ECU turns them on at 200 deg, and also they run whenever the A/C compressor is engaged.

[Tripower455]

Well,

I thought I had the issue licked......

I was just about to pull the Taurus fan out of the GTO and reinstall the mech stuff, when it dawned on me. The DCControls controller is adjustable for running temp. It comes preset at 180 according to the instructions. I had turned it down to what I thought was 160 or so, and it was running 210 all the time.

Per instructions, the temp probe for the dccontroller is installed near the discharge side of the radiator, which is, theoretically, the coolest place in the system. The water temp sender is on the crossover right above the thermostat, a much hotter part of the system. I figured that the difference was enough to make it do what it was doing.

I cranked the controller down a bunch, and took a drive. It never went above 200! I cranked it down some more, and went to pick up my kid at school, 10 miles away. Since I installed this fan, it would hit 210 before I got halfway there. Now, I made it all the way to school and it never wavered off 195! At shcool, I let it heat soak (shut down) while waiting for him. It was at about 210 when I started it up, and immediately started going down and settled at 195 again at idle! I was psyched........

About halfway home, at a steady 55 mph, it all of a sudden started creeping up again, and ran at 210 until I shut it down at the supermarket. After restarting it, it ran at about 210 all the way home....

Before I chuck this fan, I am gonna try hot wiring it to high and drive around and see if it's not a controller issue......

I am about to drive this thing off a cliff.........

[lust4speed]

This goes against what DC recommends, but try and mount the probe near the inlet of the radiator. This position will be closer to the crossover temperature sending unit, and should give a faster and more coordinated response time. If the bottom of the radiator is at 180 then the top would be close to 210 if the cooling ability is 30 degrees through the coils. On paper, you should be able to set the controller low enough that the bottom position wouldn't matter, but who knows? I have my sensor mounted at the top, and think that was the position recommended by my manufacturer. You idea of hot wiring it is a great idea and should take the guess work out of the equation.

[Tripower455]

Thanks Lust4speed! I'm gonna try moving the sensor to the rad input before hot wiring it....

I checks the DCC website, and he really doesn't, IMHO adequately explain the reasoning behind why it's mounted at the coolest part of the rad!

[1967Tempest]

I see the madness. If the probe is mounted on the bottom, whether it is a cross flow or a down flow, the water would be coolest. Thus when the water finally gets to lets say 180* the top part is already at 210*.

For a true comparison, you would have to have the fan probe and the temp sensor for the gauge in the same spot. Meaning my crossover has the temp gauge and fan sensor in it. That way the temp on the gauge is when the fan comes on.

HTH, let us know what you find out.

Dave

[Tripower455]

I moved the sensor to the input side of the rad, and took a 10 mile drive with the AC on. It got to 210 or so with the AC on, and veerrrrrry slowly crept down to a needle width above 195 when I shut the air off. This was at 45-55 mph with 2 momentary stops. As I pulled back in the driveway, I let it idle for a few minutes and it didn't budge off of 195ish.

I really think that the taurus shroud is blocking too much bypass air when moving.

I wish I could get the MkVIII fan to fit. The shroud is nearly the perfect size for the rad, and the fan is a bigger diameter, which I am sure allows more bypass air through the radiator.

This thing is driveable, but I was hoping to get the thing to run at thermostat temp more often than not. It is over 90 degrees here today, so I am assuming that once it cools off, it will run cooler, but even with the mech fan at these temps, it would cool off almost instantly when when moving.

[lust4speed]

It could very well become a blockage at highway speed. I've mentioned before that when my 67 HO was only a few weeks old I went down and purchased a shroud for it. Net result was 10° cooler in stop and go traffic, but about 5° warmer running at speed. There also has to be a design limit on airflow through the 16" shroud opening compared to the Mark VIII 18", the HO 20" opening (18.5" fan but shroud is larger), or A/C 22" shroud opening with the 19.5" fan.

[1967Tempest]

This weekend for Lead East the temps outside were very nice. Driving there, it was 72* and driving home it was 60*.

Never had to put the fan on!!!! Ran at 175*. Put it on high for haha's, 160*, nice.....

[Tripower455]

Rub it in Dave!

[1967Tempest]

So I got the new sensor from Hollister. 180* on 170* off. Temp gauge reads 195* when it comes on though.,.... I have to call Autometer.

Both gauges on both sensors read 195* when the fan came on low. I know the "CORE" temp shoul.d be higher than the surface temp, but 15* off?? Seems odd.

Other than that it is awesome!!!! LOVE THE FALL and the low temps!!!

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

So I got the new sensor from Hollister. 180* on 170* off. Temp gauge reads 195* when it comes on though.,.... I have to call Autometer.

Both gauges on both sensors read 195* when the fan came on low. I know the "CORE" temp shoul.d be higher than the surface temp, but 15* off?? Seems odd.

Other than that it is awesome!!!! LOVE THE FALL and the low temps!!!

Samething Mine did thats why i used a toggle with a dpst for low and high, yes I should have used two that way i could step thru low into high, but didn't have one,lol

[Fishin2Deep4U]

What size DC controls, controller are you guys running with the Mark VIII fan? I am running a homemade dual relay setup through an adjustable Hobbs switch right now, but would like the slow starting features.

Dave

[1967Tempest]

UPDATE:
Since the big POCI show is this weekend, I wanted ZERO issues.

I have looked at Autometers diagnostic page. And they say that the "CORE" temp is higher than the outside temp. So using a laser heat gun will give a lower temp.

I have 3 180* sensors for my Hollister relay set-up. BOTH mechanical and electrical have the temp at 195* before the low comes on. So I just accepted this and did the following.

Used the sensor as the high, with a toggle still in place to allow manual on. Using an old Derale adjustable temp sensor, I used that to turn the low on ,as the Hollister takes all of the juice, and the Derale just grounds out at the correct temp. Now I have the low on at 175* and off at 160*.

Pouring rain here, but in the garage, it works perfectly. Now that the low comes on earlier, the high has not come on at all. More to come next year, unless we get an Indian SUmmer and it heats up.



HTH, just trying to make sure this is covered ad nauseum.

Dave

[grandville455]

Originally Posted by 1967Tempest

UPDATE:
Since the big POCI show is this weekend, I wanted ZERO issues.

I have looked at Autometers diagnostic page. And they say that the "CORE" temp is higher than the outside temp. So using a laser heat gun will give a lower temp.

I have 3 180* sensors for my Hollister relay set-up. BOTH mechanical and electrical have the temp at 195* before the low comes on. So I just accepted this and did the following.

Used the sensor as the high, with a toggle still in place to allow manual on. Using an old Derale adjustable temp sensor, I used that to turn the low on ,as the Hollister takes all of the juice, and the Derale just grounds out at the correct temp. Now I have the low on at 175* and off at 160*.

Pouring rain here, but in the garage, it works perfectly. Now that the low comes on earlier, the high has not come on at all. More to come next year, unless we get an Indian SUmmer and it heats up.



HTH, just trying to make sure this is covered ad nauseum.

Dave

Thats a good idea on the sensor using it for the high side instead!

[1967Tempest]

Originally Posted by grandville455

Thats a good idea on the sensor using it for the high side instead!

Darby,
What are using for a set-up? I know that you had gone though some changes on fans etc....

Dave