[charles bledsoe]

GOAT WHORE-

Glad to see you back posting! The block looks good. Can't wait to see how you restore your front bumper and rear bumpers. Thanks for sharing your tips and documenting your progress. Your thread has really help me with my car!!
Thanks.

Chuck

[1969GTO]

I may have missed it,but if it was mentioned before could you tell me which SD cam are you going to use?

[GOAT WHORE]

Going to use the stump puller.
Comp hydraulic roller.
230/236 @ .050
.567/.578 lift with 1.5's
112 Sep 108 icl

[Chipper7]

Looking good keep up the great work.

[GOAT WHORE]

Got a call from Paul at Koerner Racing today and got the good news that my block passed the mag test today. I Knew it would check out ok but still felt good to know for sure!
Also mostly done with all the body work except the endure bumper, that's next.
Brought the doors and valance to the spray booth today for epoxy primer.
I sure love my Grandmas car!

[gtofreek]

Here are a few pics.

The main cap pics show #4 thrust bearing was moving around which caused the cap surface where the bearing sits, to get shined up. It's hard to see because of the flash, but if you look hard and compare to the #3 cap, you can see more reflection in #4. #5 cap shows hot streaks from the bearing getting hot at one point or another. #1, and #2 caps shows similar heat discoloration.

The crank pics show the crank being checked for straightness. This had less than .0005" run-out. 4.250" stroke, 3" mains. Those cardboard dust particles from shipping sure show up big time from my cameras flash.

[gtofreek]

Another crank pic.

Eagle 6.635" rods with BB Chevy small and big ends.

[1969GTO]

in case I missed it someware,with the 4.250 stroke and the 6.635 rods,what cid will the engine be?
my 462 is 4.250 & 6.8rods.

[GOAT WHORE]

Going to be a 460. Bore x stroke x number of cylinders.

[gtofreek]

Actually, it will be a 461.

4.155" x 4.250".

Rod length doesn't matter as long as it brings the piston to the top of the cylinder.

[GOAT WHORE]

Ok, I was calculating 4.150

[gtofreek]

Yeah, for some reason, these pistons are based off of a 4.125" bore.

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of the pistons. These are Icon forged pistons. They have a lot of options. Accumulator groove, pin oilers from the oil ring groove, re-enforcement ribs underside, 2618 alloy.

[Greg Reid]

Wow...those look pricey. Almost too pretty to hide in an engine.

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of the block coming out of the Cryo tank. Also of the crank coming out of the small process dewar. The pics of the frosted up lines are when I pump the liquid nitrogen out of the process dewar and back into the storage dewar. The lines get down to -320F. It will cause droplets of liquid oxygen to form and drip off.

[gtofreek]

Here's a picture of the chart that records the cryo progress. I started it at 9:40 am as referenced from the 12:00 position of the chart[not 12:00 on the chart itself]. It started going down in temp 1° per minute over a 6 hour period[as referenced by the nice, gradual arc from 9:40 am - 3:40 pm] until it reaches -320°F. You can see that at about 4:20 pm the sensor probe plug lost connection and the recorder ran up off the chart. At 5:35 pm I noticed it and re-established connection, where it went back down to -320 where it should be. It's not the temp that went up and down. It stayed at -320°F for roughly 25.5 hours, then, at 5:30 pm, I drained the liquid nitrogen out and started bringing the temp back up at a rate of 1° per minute. At 11:30 pm, it was done.

The temp pics are from the next morning when I came in and pulled the stuff out. The crank was still 48.4°, and the oil pump was 54.9°. Don't know why I documented this, just did for sh*ts and grins I guess.

[gtofreek]

Sorry Greg, I couldn't help myself and I took the liberty to tune up your grinding on the casting flash. Hope you don't mind.

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of me getting the main caps ready for align hone. First I glass bead blast them to get them really clean. Then I deburr the front face of the cap on some sandpaper on the granite slab. Then I deburr the caps mating surface.

Then I grind the front face of the cap perpendicular to the mating surface. This is done so the mating surface can be cut without ending up with a bunch of taper in the housing bore. You'll notice that in the fourth picture, the main cap in the center of the photo only cleaned up in patch's across the front face. Look at it again in the next post. This cap was not cut flat at all from the factory. If I were to just cut the mating surface without cutting this first, that housing bore would have a ton of taper in it and it would be hard to hone out without honing an excessive amount.

[gtofreek]

Now you will notice that after cutting the second cap up in the first photo, it now only has a small area that didn't clean up. I didn't want to keep grinding his cap away, so I left the patch there as it was still fairly deep. I just need a flat surface, perpendicular to the mating surface so I can cut it. The other caps cleaned up nicely without grinding much.

When cutting the mating surface, I need to know how much I'm cutting off, so I set the cap on a dial indicator so I can keep track of how much I cut off. That way I can cut all the caps the same and have housing bores close to each other when I start honing. The target amount to cut off will be .004". That should be enough to get a nice round hole, with all bores the same size. Any less, and it's usually not enough to get it all round again if you are installing studs. Especially when installing new dowel pins like I did in this.

[gtofreek]

After cutting all the caps, I then use a big file to chamfer the edges of the caps to get rid of the razor sharp burrs that are formed from grinding the cap.

Then I use the big file to deburr the blocks pan rail as well as the main cap registers. I chamfer the parting lines so the edge doesn't scrape the back of the bearings when installed. I also lightly chamfer the edges where the thrust bearing slips into place.