[Transamric]

Give me a couple days and I'll see if i can find that sheet on painting the flange.

[Formulabruce]

RA IV at Level One.. Usually Nothing leaves till its right. All white nose and black bolts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UONgmYh55JU

[Transamric]

Found one of the sheets I was looking for. It is in the 1971 Firebird Product Information Manual, in the back of Section 14 titled 'Bumpers & Misc.'. This sheet is an Engineering Change Summary with the Nature Of Change stated 'Black Paint Removed From Lower Flange'. The date box shows 'No SPD' which I assume means No Specified Date.
Quality of this reprint is very poor but most of it can be read. I'll see if I can improve the quality and post later.

I'll state the obvious; there would be no need for a remove the black flange painting procedure sheet, if it wasn't being done previously.

So why was this black flange paint planned to be removed during (or before) 1971 production? It appears that the later to arrive plastic valance panel was originally intended to be a 1971 introduction, rather than 1972. When used, the plastic valance covered over this bumper flange area so no "hiding" was necessary.

The back side of this sheet has a quickly hand drawn picture of the area cross section that this notice refers to, with an (assumed) engineers signature abbreviation.

[Transamric]

BTW, the Level One resto RAIV TA is very nice. But it's not factory assembly line spot on. (Neither are any of mine.) First thing that jumped out in the video is the extreme nose high attitude. Then there's the generic replacement master cylinder without the machined semi-circle for the pic code. So I would be very careful using a restored car from anyone as an example of "how they were done". (If that was your intent.)

[72projectbird]

Very interesting. Thanks for all the info guys!

The car is getting the final fitment in the spoilers and rear filler panel, and after that it goes into the first round of primer. So I'm just gathering info on various finishes for the future. I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions coming soon.

[Transamric]

This is probably as good as I can make this copy. Ok to question me for my interpretation of words not clear here.

[Transamric]

Lets try this again. Pic not rotated on my screen.

[Transamric]

That's funny! Insists on being rotated.

[Transamric]

One more try.

[72projectbird]

Initial body work and more panel alignment. The spoiler fitment is coming along well. The fenders spoilers are original, and the center is an original GM replacement bought new back in the day.

[grd777]

Originally Posted by 72projectbird

Initial body work and more panel alignment. The spoiler fitment is coming along well. The fenders spoilers are original, and the center is an original GM replacement bought new back in the day.

i know it is hard work , but it looks like fun .i miss doing this king of work (to old now 70 years old )

[HWYSTR455]

Any tips on installing the air dam, wheel spats, and welting?

My body guy bailed on mine and stuck me with it.


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[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Any tips on installing the air dam, wheel spats, and welting?

My body guy bailed on mine and stuck me with it.


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Are they original or aftermarket? The originals are more forgiving when it comes to fitment, but repros can be made to fit well.

I have fiberglass ones on my 71, and they fit ok. I had to shape the contours on the wheel spats to get them snug against the fenders. The center spoiler fit great, and looks fine without welting. The tricky part is getting the center spoiler to fit in the space between the spats without trying to push the spats outward. Usually I'll loosen the lower part of the fenders that bolt to the radiator support, and get everything lined up that way. You just have to watch the fitment of the lower valance to make sure it doesn't go all out of whack.

[HWYSTR455]

Aftermarket, I 'think', I bought them like in the late 90s/early 2000s.

They fit fine without the welting, just 'sloppy' with the welting, at least that's what my body guy said, and honestly, think he just wanted out of his shop.

I have the body color welting, forget who I got that from, believe it's from someone on this forum, selling on eGay. It's plyable, and looks good, so am going to give it a whack.

I have 2 air dams that came with the welting attached, painted, I had one done as a spare. Purchased at same time as the spats.

The car was together with all the from clip minus the dam & spats, so think I have a pretty good shot at getting it to fit ok.

The air dams I've had on the car in the past have all had a gap where they join the spat, prob about a 1/4" or so, and, would live with that, kind of 'used' to it, so...

I will wrestle with it when the time comes I guess, see how it goes. If not, will take to a body guy, see if he can do better. Obviously, a diff one that did the body this time...


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[72projectbird]

If they fit good without the welting, they should fit good with it. That's been my experience anyways.

Dealing with body guys can be an absolute clown show. 90% of them are miserable, and have an awful work ethic. They're usually complete hacks to boot. Thankfully I've found some that aren't.

It has pushed me into teaching myself how to do panel repair and complete paint jobs on my own.

[HWYSTR455]

I'll agree with the body guy comment, I have yet to find a reputable shop.

I'm going to try to installed them, I got the welting in color, know it's not going to match 100% but will be close.

So are they glued to the spat and then installed?



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[72projectbird]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

I'll agree with the body guy comment, I have yet to find a reputable shop.

I'm going to try to installed them, I got the welting in color, know it's not going to match 100% but will be close.

So are they glued to the spat and then installed?



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I've also used the molded in color welting, and it looks great.

Yeah I measure out roughly how much I need per spoiler, cut them and glue them to the spoilers. Then I touch up the ends with a razor to shape em.

[72projectbird]

In preparation for the first round of primer, the shaker is undergoing surgery. The metal ring on it unfortunately is smoked.

Any idea on what course of action I should take? I was thinking about buying a repro shaker and robbing the metal base from it.

[HWYSTR455]

Firebird Central has a repop base plate and ring setup, as well as the substructure for the functional door. I just got the base plate a couple weeks ago, looks good.

I'm not sure but it might be made by OER. There is also a correct 70-72 full shaker assembly.

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1970...p/she-2543.htm

There is also repop the air cleaner assembly.

..

On the welting, any recommendation on the type of adhesive to use?


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[HWYSTR455]

70-72 air cleaner assembly:

https://www.firebirdcentral.com/1970...p/air-2047.htm

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