[giles]

Thanks 2many! I took some extra effort in the engine paint area with my car...
I was not happy with the paint that was commonly available in over-the-counter spray cans. I painted the intake, valve covers, and front cover many years ago with Plasti-cote "Pontiac Blue" which is not terrible, but is too light and not greenish-aqua
enough for 71, 72 and early 73 paint for my liking.
My oil pan and flywheel still had pretty good coverage of original blue so I took those to Autobody & Color in Nashville and had them mix up some PPG Concept Urethane. I have a compressor and spray gun so using a mixed quart is no trouble. For those looking for
a rattle can solution the info referenced at the fiedlerh.home.att.net website is probably as good as it gets.
As you can see from the attached photos the color match is pretty good.
Nothing is perfect! I am not sure it is possible to know the exact formulation and tint of what was used in 1971. Alot of people claim that original paint has yellowed a bit over the years. This may be true, but I also recall that the commonly available rattle cans never looked right for 71 and 72 blue. I have owned several cars with original paint motors, as have several friends and the stuff I had mixed looks pretty good to my eye. It looks too green under flourescent light, but looks Ok under daylight. I don't think that any color will look right under all lighting.

[71HOT/A]

I mixed some Deltron base-coat to use on mine over 15 years ago, it has held up well with the area around the exhaust burning off over time but I think it lasts a little better than enamel. The trick is to keep the paint as thin as possible yet still cover around the exhaust.

[71HOT/A]

Hey guys, who else has an early 71 with some left over 70 parts, scoops, h/l bezels, guage bezels, seat back release knobs etc.

[68bird400HO]

My 12C built Van Nuys car has the chrome bezels. Also, of the two January built Norwood cars I have seen, both had chrome bezels.

[Rack776]

I have a question about the value of some parts-

1972 455 HO heads (7F6) Bare no springs or valves never machined other than a slight gasket match.
1972 455 HO aluminum Intake Manafold
1969 or 1970 (Not Sure off hand) Cast Iron heat crossover
1972 455 HO factory 5 blade Flex Fan

I own a 1975 455 Trans Am, I was planning to assemble a complete 1972ish 455 HO
to replace my #s matching smog slug 455 thats in the car now and make it a "real" H-O. (I would keep the original engine in storeage) I wanted to build an early 80's style Hot Rod out of the car (think H-O Racing or Nunzi's) using the parts that were the hot set up back then (no alum edelbrock heads)

Things are now tight money wise and I dont see being able to afford an H-O block
or crank in the near future, the low compression smog slug is also looking better & better
as I can run cheap 87 octane with no problem.

Would you guys keep 1/2 a motor and hope to finish it later in life or sell to someone
who needs the stuff instead if it sitting in my garage, I dont want to kick my self later
for getting rid of this stuff too cheap I dont think I'll ever find an other set for what I
paid for this stuff. Pontiac guys seem to be the worst as far as pack rats go.

Any advise would be appreciated, also ballpark prices would help so I dont screw myself
if I go to sell them.

Thanks, Jason

[speedshopmike]

has anyone ran a compression check on their fresh, stock 455HO?
if so, what's your average psi reading?
i'm trying to get a handle on the car i bought; it's making only 110psi.
no smoke, no bad noises, no blow-by, no gassy smell in the oil, and documents indicating a rebuild less then 10k miles ago - ie, my judgement says the motor's still internally happy.

it has an unknown aftermarket cam; i'm looking to see how much of my low result is in the 8:1 compression and how much may be related to a too-large or improperly set up cam.
given the round of badly marked timing sets that abounded for a while, i'm thinking there's a fundamental cam timing issue (it feels and acts retarded) crippling this HO.
former owner installed it dot to dot per usual practice, but if the dots are in the wrong place...
quick and accurate replies are appreciated.
thanks,
mike

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by speedshopmike

has anyone ran a compression check on their fresh, stock 455HO?
if so, what's your average psi reading?
i'm trying to get a handle on the car i bought; it's making only 110psi.
no smoke, no bad noises, no blow-by, no gassy smell in the oil, and documents indicating a rebuild less then 10k miles ago - ie, my judgement says the motor's still internally happy.

it has an unknown aftermarket cam; i'm looking to see how much of my low result is in the 8:1 compression and how much may be related to a too-large or improperly set up cam.
given the round of badly marked timing sets that abounded for a while, i'm thinking there's a fundamental cam timing issue (it feels and acts retarded) crippling this HO.
former owner installed it dot to dot per usual practice, but if the dots are in the wrong place...
quick and accurate replies are appreciated.
thanks,
mike

Just off the top of my head,I'd say you SHOULD be ringing up around 150 lbs per hole.
The ? mark cam would be my first guess.
If you're not sure who it's "parents" are,I toss in an "068" or "744" if you've got a stick.
Either of those cams should make you happy.

[Lloyd-TX]

Originally Posted by speedshopmike

has anyone ran a compression check on their fresh, stock 455HO?
if so, what's your average psi reading?
i'm trying to get a handle on the car i bought; it's making only 110psi.
no smoke, no bad noises, no blow-by, no gassy smell in the oil, and documents indicating a rebuild less then 10k miles ago - ie, my judgement says the motor's still internally happy.

it has an unknown aftermarket cam; i'm looking to see how much of my low result is in the 8:1 compression and how much may be related to a too-large or improperly set up cam.
given the round of badly marked timing sets that abounded for a while, i'm thinking there's a fundamental cam timing issue (it feels and acts retarded) crippling this HO.
former owner installed it dot to dot per usual practice, but if the dots are in the wrong place...
quick and accurate replies are appreciated.
thanks,
mike

Mike - 110 PSI all the way? If so I'd say that your rings and valve sealing is good, but the camshaft is WAY too much for a stocker engine.

A "tight" 068 cammed 455HO ought to make at least 140-150 PSI cranking.

Unfortunately my GTO engine is tired, and has an 041 cam in it, so not a good comparison. My Formula engine is a 10:1 deal with a SMALL solid flat tappet cam, and it averages 215 PSI cranking!

Did you block the throttle open when testing? Are the battery and starter in good shape and giving you a brisk cranking speed? All things to consider when running a cranking compression test.

110 PSI cranking compression would be a gutless PIG.

[70RAlll]

I am agreeing with LLoyd, 110 is messed up. Do a leak down, it will tell you if the rings or valves are leaking.. Sounds like something is leaking...

[goathead455]

Unfortunately my GTO engine is tired, and has an 041 cam in it, so not a good comparison. My Formula engine is a 10:1 deal with a SMALL solid flat tappet cam, and it averages 215 PSI cranking!


Lloyd,
How did you get to 10:1 on your Formula?
Did you mill the heads or do you have domed pistons?

Thanks

[Lloyd-TX]

Originally Posted by goathead455

Unfortunately my GTO engine is tired, and has an 041 cam in it, so not a good comparison. My Formula engine is a 10:1 deal with a SMALL solid flat tappet cam, and it averages 215 PSI cranking!


Lloyd,
How did you get to 10:1 on your Formula?
Did you mill the heads or do you have domed pistons?

Thanks

Both, actually.

You'll have to forgive me, as my memory isn't the best and we built this engine over five years back, but IIRC the chambers ended up at around 105-107 cc, and we had JE make us a custom piston with a SMALL dome of approximately 10cc volume.

Actual calculated static CR is 9.98:1. 467" (455 with a 4.200" bore and stock 4.210" stroke), 430 CBHP @ 5100 and 530 CBTQ @ 2900 on 93 octane pump unleaded.

Looks (and sounds - except for the solid lifter music) like a stone stock HO under the hood, manifolds and all.

[goathead455]

Originally Posted by Lloyd-TX

Both, actually.

You'll have to forgive me, as my memory isn't the best and we built this engine over five years back, but IIRC the chambers ended up at around 105-107 cc, and we had JE make us a custom piston with a SMALL dome of approximately 10cc volume.

Actual calculated static CR is 9.98:1. 467" (455 with a 4.200" bore and stock 4.210" stroke), 430 CBHP @ 5100 and 530 CBTQ @ 2900 on 93 octane pump unleaded.

Looks (and sounds - except for the solid lifter music) like a stone stock HO under the hood, manifolds and all.

Thanks Lloyd,
I was curious because my engine was originally put together almost 20 years ago and it has TRW domes in it.
Had it on the chassis dyno last fall 380 HP @ 4900 480 lbs ft @ 3400
running very lean.
I didn't have any jets with me to correct it at that time.
I will be making another trip to the dyno this spring hoping for some better numbers.

Thanks

[PB]

Jason,
I'll add another vote to keep em. I know it's tempting to sell in financial constraints, but like you said, You'll never get them again at the price you got em at. I've been doing the same thing you are doing over the last 7 years and finally have a complete 1972 455 HO YB motor. Just missing the numbers carb, but I am not concerned with that as it is too $$$ and not necessary when not a numbers car. I am building a car I want and it will Be factory correct as it would have come off the assembly line. Only way to know it wasn't, is to view the VIN. That's the fun of the hobby for me. Also, the fun of hunting down this stuff over the years. SAVE FOR LATER! A HO block will crop up when you least expect it, and probably not able cough up the funds, but if you are like me, you are able to scrounge up the dinero. If not, wait, seems like everytime I think, man, I better buy that now, I may never see another one, another one shows up later. Just be patient. That's why I love ebay. I have access to parts I never would have had access to, and they are shipped to my door!

I'd say 2-2500 alone for the heads, 500-700 for intake and crossover. Fan...is it an AC fan or manual fan?

[1971WARBIRD]

i think you are a little low on the price.it's not only what they are selling for today,but what you will have to pay if you want to replace.

good heads from 1800-2500
intake and crossover up to 750
fan no idea

if you don't need the money but still want to sell,start around 3000-3250.if someone really needs or wants it they will make an offer then you can go from there.if you start at 2000,you can never go back up.this helps keep all the tire kickers out.

my problem,when i sell things i say 2000 and that is what i want and need for it.i figure out what the lowest price is i feel good at,but then people want to bargin from there,need to change the way i do things,or just keep it all.reason i mostly sell to friends and people i know.

[Rack776]

Originally Posted by 1971WARBIRD

i think you are a little low on the price.it's not only what they are selling for today,but what you will have to pay if you want to replace.

good heads from 1800-2500
intake and crossover up to 750
fan no idea

if you don't need the money but still want to sell,start around 3000-3250.if someone really needs or wants it they will make an offer then you can go from there.if you start at 2000,you can never go back up.this helps keep all the tire kickers out.

my problem,when i sell things i say 2000 and that is what i want and need for it.i figure out what the lowest price is i feel good at,but then people want to bargin from there,need to change the way i do things,or just keep it all.reason i mostly sell to friends and people i know.

Yeah, I know that feeling, My wife calls swapping parts the "Red Neck Stock Market"
Cause I always Buy High and Sell Low! It seams like I always pay what someone
is asking cause I dont want to loose out, but when I sell either nobodys interested
or I end up comming down in price to compromise on shipping. I have a tendancy
to find the guys in Canada, England, Ect. who are the only ones who want what I have
but they are too far away to ship to or trade with
I think being a Pack Rat is the Way to Go!

[speedshopmike]

looking on nunzi's site, his smallest stick is 234/244@050 (we know it's a nunzi grind)
no quotes on LSA or IV open/close points though.
i'm lookin at 110; way low and no potential to run strong till rectified.
did you measure that 150 or just rough guessing?
(not that i disagree but i need concrete info)
if i were going to run a oem grind, it'd be a 744 (301/313 if i recall) but i won't be; i have a custom grind i use in 9:1 compression mills that pulls like a train from off idle to 5600 using rhoads lifters; it's my usual poncho combo, but it ain't gonna work in an 8:1 situation; i'd rather not pull the heads to cut 'em or i'll just bolt E-heads up and solve the issue plus all the good power and weight loss and have money to spare after selling off the HO stuff.
so who wants to buy an intake, crossover, and 7F6 heads?
all perfect, essentially.
and probably the manifolds, too - repop's from RA with 2.5" outlets, with all the oem heat shields and related crapola.
please spare me the keep it oem song and dance - the car's a clone and originality means zero to me - i own a speedshop, after all.
if it's still stock it's broken in my world.
thank you,
mike

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by speedshopmike

please spare me the keep it oem song and dance - the car's a clone and originality means zero to me - i own a speedshop, after all.
if it's still stock it's broken in my world.
thank you,
mike

If you don't get "stock",you don't NEED cast iron round port heads!

Maybe take your own advice & just toss all that "factory junk" (let me know your address & what day the G-men come by) & bolt on the Edeltork heads,Hooker headers & perhaps a roller cam?



Or better yet,how about one of them new modern chevrolet "gto" engines.
You should be able to sell a lot of parts for one of those.

[speedshopmike]

you just keep enjoying your slow-boat, old-man stock resto stuff.
i bet you sit in a lawn chair all day at drag races and car shows, talking about how good things were when you were young, too.
wake me up when something exciting happens.
i'll be busy enjoying driving instead of trying to get my hose clamps lined up just like the factory did.
thanks for nothing.

[2manyT/A'S]

Originally Posted by speedshopmike

you just keep enjoying your slow-boat, old-man stock resto stuff.
i bet you sit in a lawn chair all day at drag races and car shows, talking about how good things were when you were young, too.
wake me up when something exciting happens.
i'll be busy enjoying driving instead of trying to get my hose clamps lined up just like the factory did.
thanks for nothing.

I just KNEW IT!

Crooked hose clamps & purple plug wires with a MONSTER TACH on the steering column.

Don't go away MAD!

[Rack776]

Originally Posted by speedshopmike

you just keep enjoying your slow-boat, old-man stock resto stuff.
i bet you sit in a lawn chair all day at drag races and car shows, talking about how good things were when you were young, too.
wake me up when something exciting happens.
i'll be busy enjoying driving instead of trying to get my hose clamps lined up just like the factory did.
thanks for nothing.

Heh Heh HA HA HA!

Nit Pickers HA!