[gtofreek]

Yeah, I like my hatch with lots of cross in it! Thanks!

What about the cylinders and the lifter bores?

I also rounded the chamfer at the bottom of the cylinders so it doesn't scuff the piston.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Yeah, I like my hatch with lots of cross in it! Thanks!

What about the cylinders and the lifter bores?

I also rounded the chamfer at the bottom of the cylinders so it doesn't scuff the piston.

Beautiful work. I would expect nothing less coming from you. There are very few machinists today that ensure proper crosshatch in anything other than the cylinder walls. Gotta keep those RAs low.

[GOAT WHORE]

Thanks fir my patience, are you kidding me! Thank you for the attention to detail.
Wow Paul, I can't wait to get this thing.
Those main bearings have a long oil slot instead of just a hole, tell us about that, just easier to center over oil passage?
You know it's the fine details like filing the back of that thrust bearing that makes the difference
Thanks again Paul for your attention to detail.

[gtofreek]

Here are some more pics. I have been sick to my stomach most of this week so I did what I could at work, but progress was slow for me this week. Feeling a little better now so I should be able to finish it this week. Thanks for your patience!

Got the bearings all prepped. Got the crank and cams polished, cleaned, and ready to install.

In the pics of the back of the thrust bearing, you can see where I lightly scratched the back of the bearing, up next to the flange, with a file to reveal the outside edge that is raised up from the rest of the back of the bearing. This raised area pushes the bearing edge into the crank, and if left untreated, and installed, the outside edges of the bearing surface will be shiny from being jammed into the crank. By filing off the high spots, and getting them even with the rest of the back of the bearing, this rubbing condition will not exist. Bearing life is much happier. Also, with the bearing sitting more flush with the block, there is more surface area to transfer heat into the block, and no open voids, or air pockets to prevent heat transfer.

I like to put a nice cross hatch pattern on the bearing surface as well, to hold an oil film better.

[gtofreek]

More bearing pics.

[gtofreek]

Here are pics of the crank and cam. The crank had a burr in one of the oil holes. I used a de-burr tool and a fine jewelers file to remove it. I went over all the rest of the oil holes to be sure there was no burr hanging into the oil hole. I then polished the crank and washed it, and brushed out all the oil holes.

Polished cam journals and lobes with 1000 grit wet-dry sandpaper and WD-40

[gtofreek]

Here's a few more pics of installing main bearings and crank. Should have more pics on Monday or Tuesday.

[gtofreek]

A few more.

[Drag Star Le Mans]

DAMN! That cam and crank look so good!

[DJ455HO]

Hi Paul,

I'm just curious why you don't use the viton rear main seals that are available. Have you had problems with them?

Thanks,

Dan

[gtofreek]

I use them on after market blocks. The stock blocks sometimes are not concentric in the seal groove and the Viton seals may leak. This engine will be going more than 1000 miles away. I don't want to take any chances with a leaking seal[long way to go to fix it, although I wouldn't mind an excuse to go to Oregon, just not this excuse]. This block was only off a few thousandth's, but didn't want to take a chance. I know this graphite seal won't leak. Installed many of these graphite seals with no leakers yet.

[GOAT WHORE]

Yah baby!

[gtofreek]

Hey, did you notice the freeze plugs are all in the same direction? Just thought I'd point that out!

[GOAT WHORE]

Originally Posted by gtofreek

Hey, did you notice the freeze plugs are all in the same direction? Just thought I'd point that out!

Now you're just showing off Does that mean I will have to index the spark plugs to match the freeze plugs.

[gtofreek]

I'd expect no less!

[GOAT WHORE]

Got to work in the car a little this weekend. We were installing the trim to make sure everything fits right, well here is one piece that did not fit well. We tried three different ones and they all fit the same. Does not look so bad in this picture but it was.

[GOAT WHORE]

Here is the finished product. Mike had to just do a little body work to make the fender fit the trim. Believe we are in to making the rear bumper fit the car next weekend.

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of the assembly. I like to go over the piston skirts with a Scotch-Brite pad. This does 2 things:

1. Removes any burrs that may have been left behind from machining.

2. Leaves a fine cross hatch pattern on the skirt to help hold oil.

Plus it just looks better if nothing else.

Set ring gaps at .019" top, .022" second, and the oil rails were .024".

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of the timing chain set. It is a Roll Master, and it fits nice and snug. You can see there is very little deflection when I push on the chain. Cam is degreed to 107° ICL, where Comp Cams recommends installing it. Found that the 2° incremental keyways in the crank gear, only changed the timing 1/2°. When installed straight up, it came out at 108.5° ICL. I had to use the +6° keyway to gain that 1 1/2° I was looking for. AT 107° ICL, the cam has .073" lifter rise at TDC. That equates to .120" theoretical valve lift at TDC with 1.65 rockers.

[gtofreek]

Here are some pics of the oil pump. Upon disassembly, I found some slight rust spots. The edges of the gear pockets have sharp edges and small burrs on them.