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#1
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![]() https://www.google.com/search?q=gopr...icial&tbm=shop This one even has a remote so you can be in the car when you turn it on!
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Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#2
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Ok, I need a little help. First, I need to replace the elastic on my shoulder belts and would like advice on the best way to remove the plastic trim pieces that dress out the roof mounted anchors for these belts. I'm sure they just snap on (I think), but before I start prying on 42 year old plastic I want to know if there are any tricks to removal. I want to take the belts off to get new elastic sewn in and to clean and possibly re-dye the belts. Here's a picture. Are these trim pieces reproduced?
I have seen on here that the retention for the shoulder belts changed around December 1971 production. The Black Car was built January 11, 1972 and has the old buckle retainer and elastic. ![]() Secondly, I need to replace a grommet in the core support. There is a picture below. Is this part repo'd or does anyone have a source or suggestion? I appreciate all the help.
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#3
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The car is a 12B car built during the second week of December but delivered in January, so the belts are the originals. If I remember correctly, those black plastic covers are just snapped over the chrome bracket with four little "fingers", so you can gently pry the edge with a plastic pry tool.
That grommet is a common piece used in several locations around the front end of the car, and during the entire span of the second generation era. |
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#4
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...I have the same belt set up..those black covers are reppoped and snap on the hinge is on the top AMES page 32 #223B..perhaps P.Y. as are the clear plastic clips for securing the chrome buckles...the rubber grommet is not reproduced.(trust me I have looked) mine to has a slit in it as though it was designed like that?
Last edited by transam1972; 02-25-2014 at 12:38 AM. |
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#5
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BOB..it looks as though you are missing a rear coot hook..I have 2 new ones I can send you if you like they are close, even though they advertise as an exact reproduction they are not..however they are GM S.R.that I got quite awhile ago..just let me know.if you could do me a huge favor the next time you take some engine pics (I like the way yours are gigantic!)..could you take a shot of your harness route by the front of your drivers side valve cover.(I added a 1976 wire shield and would like to see how an original was done)...I also have a rear alternator bracket and any shots of that would be helpful, is there a spacer involved?..lastly a fuse box pic would be tops, I have the coated screws(from Inline Tube), actually new repops with the coating and my radio surpressor is not in place..my idle stop solenoid bracket looks differant than yours..included are some of mine for reference..let me know on coat hooks..thanks!!your engine compartments looking nice!..and I have my new engine colour thanks to your thread!.
Last edited by transam1972; 02-25-2014 at 03:07 AM. |
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#6
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Check the driver's side, bet it hinges down.
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Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#7
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When I replaced the elastic on my belts I had them sew on two strips in the hopes they would not lose their elasticity too soon.
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#8
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both of mine hinge up...they would want the hinges hidden
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#9
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No, they both hinge up. ![]() Thanks for the photos. One question - is the long part of the belt webbing also supposed to be supported by the clear buckle/latch retainer piece? |
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#10
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the buckle hooks into the clip then the belt slides in the clip and the elastic hooks to the front coat hook...my belts also need elastic replaced that is why they look limp..but they are hooked up correctly
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#11
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I forget where I got this picture but it's what I used as reference to hang my shoulder belts. The long piece was not supported by the clear plastic retainer.
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#12
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I love the weekend when I can do the work I love...
Piddled around under the hood some more cleaning things up. Installed extended battery terminal bolts so that I could plug in a Battery Tender instead of using the clips. Also re-routed the positive cable to the front side of the power steering lines and replaced the battery ground with a new one. It's looking good. The big move though was more on the interior. Got the shoulder belts removed and they are in the process of being cleaned. New elastic is next. I am also working to get the kick panels cleaned up and that leads to several questions: 1) The lower right hand duct is trash with multiple holes that were covered with black duct tape. This piece is available aftermarket, but I wonder if anyone has experience with this piece and a recommendation for a particular repop? The part number is 9798883. 2) What's the best way to remove the right hand kick panel? Does the console and duct have to come out, and the dash be loosened? Also, I found the part number for the core panel grommet and I found a repop replacement. Believe it or not this same grommet was used as an antenna lead grommet on 1959 through 1969 Buicks. You have to love GM. The part number is 1189054 and this part can be obtained here: http://www.rubbertherightway.com/196...51331-prd1.htm Here's a few pictures of the crappy Black Car duct work for reference. Please let me know if there is a recommended repop for this piece. Also, I need help on the removal of the right hand kick panel. ![]()
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#13
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Craig doesnt like parking next to me any more since I sold that rolling trophy. Maybe will have to get a 72 corner going and pack a couple white coolers
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#14
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Now we are talking! I typed Brian but that auto correct is funny...
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Mike/Illinois |
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#15
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Here is where I discussed the issues I had with the reproduced duct along with photos. Nothing lines up at all.
http://forums.performanceyears.com/f...op+duct&page=2
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1973 Formula 400 4 spd 04C build date Norwood assembly plant. |
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#16
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#17
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#18
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it probably would be good to have that large vacuum formed duct out..then remove that roundish cover....you need to remove 2 screws holding the bracket that holds the vacuum actuator...there should be an orange hose you can disconnect if you want...remove all the screws for the kick panel and it will come out...putting it back in is a bit harder but it will work back in place...console does not need to come out and nothing regarding the dash but it helps to have the glove box door and insert out
Last edited by transam1972; 03-02-2014 at 12:12 AM. |
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#19
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one last thought BOB,..you may need to loosen up the entire duct if the right side one is hard to get out..as it fits inside the center one and connects to the right hand dash vent...I probably pulled all 3 pieces at once but I would try to remove just the problem one first and see how well it goes...if I recall 1972 drivers side with a/c is unique..possible that is one year only and it changed to a different design
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#20
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Quote:
Pepi - Can't get the link to work. Can you check it and repost if possible. Glenn - thanks for your suggestions. |
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