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#1
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Well, the engine isn't out yet, but it's close. I think MPD and I were both suffering from too much Thanksgiving turkey, but we got a lot done. Underhood everything is pretty much stripped down and ready. All that's left is to remove the brake booster, disconnect the clutch, unbolt the trans and crossmember, take the head pipes off, and pull the motor mount bolts. By noon tomorrow everything should be out and the engine on the stand.
A couple of things: 1) It turns out the radiator is a replacement. Therefore, I am looking for a FD 3 core radiator. Anybody have one let me know please. 2) Engine paint color looks weird. Almost like 72-73 Pontiac engine color. At some point the intake and valley pan were removed and repainted a dark blue, but the rest of the engine is light greenish 72-73 blue. When they repainted the intake they left the throttle bracket on and under it you can see the original color very well. you can also see it on the front of the heads where the brackets were installed. I've done some research, and a lot of it tends to point toward these engines not being what is generally considered to be corporate blue. I've still got a set of samples left from the 72-73 paint experiment that I'll break out tomorrow. Here's a few pictures, including one of MPD saluting the thugs in Ferguson....We both loved the joke in the Lobby about how when they looted the Payless Shoe Store they left the work boots untouched. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#2
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Bob,
what are your plans for the striped vacuum hoses?
__________________
1972 Formula 455HO 1979 W72 Fire Am 1975 455 4 speed TA |
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#3
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You just might be right. MPD and I talked about this some today, and the more I think about it the more I like it. If I go with a donor block then I can beat on this thing with impunity and without guilt. I think I like that idea. In fact I know I do....
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#4
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Quote:
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#5
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Quote:
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#6
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If you remove the plastic shifter escution,knob and boot....then unbolt the 2 bolts that hold shifter to mounting plate....and three linkage tab bolts....shifter should fall right out....
__________________
![]() Eye Candy......garage band? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUPcHxHRx3s Go full screen & turn it UP! |
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#7
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My 78
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#8
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I've really enjoyed this thread from day 1, and greatly appreciate the humor and contributions here.
IIRC - there were 1267 '78 Y88 4-speeds made...(HERE) so I'm wondering out loud what the current survivor ratio/number is? Any WAGs? |
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#9
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I've always felt that 78 W72's (especially 4 speeds) will have the MOST potential to appreciate in the 75-81 arena....
I'd say that 78 T/A pricing (especially with W72 4 speed) has risen substantially in the last 5-7 years.....
__________________
![]() Eye Candy......garage band? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUPcHxHRx3s Go full screen & turn it UP! |
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#10
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Cant' remember if we touched on correct engine color here previously....but there is NOTHING currently available in a rattle can that's real close.....
__________________
![]() Eye Candy......garage band? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUPcHxHRx3s Go full screen & turn it UP! |
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#11
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Quote:
Also, for those that don't know, using automotive refinishing paint, like I'm doing, is fine to paint your engine with. It doesn't have to be high heat special engine paint. The engine doesn't get hot enough to hurt the paint. Of course the exhaust manifolds do require high heat exhaust manifold paint, or ceramic coating, that doesn't burn off, if you're going to protect them from rusting.
__________________
Steve F. |
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#12
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Quote:
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================================================== ======================================= Well, the engine and transmission are now out. No big surprises or stories. A few comments though in no particular order: 1) Speaking of brake boosters - man, what a pain to remove them on Fbodies. Four little nuts that take about an hour to remove. If Joey theWelder wasn't deer hunting we would have had him make an extended 9/16" wrench. I'm not sure how we will get the nuts on when the new booster gets installed. 2) Next in order of difficulty was removing the frame mount portion of the motor mounts. Again, I'm not sure how we will get the nuts installed when we put the new mounts on. 3) I'm not sure what has gone on with this engine, but it is clear that not only have the intake and valley pan been off, but the heads have also been off in the past. If you look back at one of yesterday's pictures you can see that the head gasket has no paint on it. I posted another picture below. 4) Everything under the hood looks good. Sort of like the floor pan and rear of the car when we cleaned off the grease and undercoating. The Front end will clean up nicely, and with the exception of the battery tray there is no real rust or rot. On the firewall you can see an original white inspection paint mark. 5) On top of the crossmember was something stuck in the grease. On closer inspection it turned out to be the bottom half of a sparkplug. Based on the quantity of grease it was trapped in that plug undoubtedly came from the prior century. The fun continues. Here the pictures... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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#13
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Quote:
For the booster nuts, I have some "gear wrenches" with pivoting heads that I got from Harbor Freight that makes the job easier. For the motor mount bolts, I prefer to put the bolt in from underneath and put the nuts on top. Much easier than trying to start nuts up inside the frame.
__________________
Steve F. |
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#14
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Similar to the picture you sent me from the road to the nationals. As usual, he's doing the dirty work.
__________________
Some guys they just give up living And start dying little by little, piece by piece, Some guys come home from work and wash up, And go racin' in the street. Bruce Springsteen - Racing In The Street - 1978 |
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#15
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Like so many others, I like to use silver hi temp paint on the bare cast exhaust ports. No primer, nothing. just high temp on with the blue on top of that. Yes, the blue will burn off, but its nice to see silver underneath & its pretty easy to touch up then & not as prone to rusting. I use DP90 on the rest of the engine, then color.
I did a rotisserie resto that I completed in 2008. I used polyester filler on dings & pits in the oil pan, then epoxy primer & paint. No issues whatsoever.
__________________
![]() 68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
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#16
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Hi. Bob, if you come up with correct rattle can blue, or formula let me know... I will need in upcoming months.
Thanks |
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#17
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Hi. Bob, if you come up with correct rattle can blue, or formula let me know... I will need in upcoming months.
Thanks |
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#18
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Here is a picture of my 48K 78 W72,4SPD,WS6 T/A untouched motor if you want to see the correct engine color. Hope it helps you guys restoring these wonderful muscle cars.
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#19
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Nice car Bob, what does your trunk mat look like? Black or Aqua grey?
__________________
🧩 Burds Parts, Finding those Hard to Find PCs, no Fisher Price Toys Here Southern Hamtramck Institute of Technology , Alumni Put some 8” flakes and BFG’s on dude!, like everyone does🙄 Burds Literature, nOS factory Brochures, Glovebox literature, & black & blue freedom toppers. 1978 YEE 1995 Q45 #whoremembers |
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#20
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On the trunk mat......I didn't recall your specifis build date....June is a really LATE build....so anything is possible....In MY mind...the black trunk mat was a 79 deal....
Congrats on the short block decision.....your matching #'s will be MUCH safer under the work bench
__________________
![]() Eye Candy......garage band? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUPcHxHRx3s Go full screen & turn it UP! |
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