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  #301  
Old 04-17-2007, 06:47 PM
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I bought two 2-1/2 gallon jugs of the stuff from my local autoparts store. -cost about $50. I initially tested it in a three gallon pail for half an hour and here is the result:
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  #302  
Old 04-17-2007, 06:48 PM
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This stuff is safe on the plastic and only attacks the paint's ability to stick to the underlying layer. According to the modelers it can be used on clear plastic model car windshields with no damage to the clear plastic. So I guess it would be fine for gauges and other similar clear automotive plastics. Make sure you use rubber gloves when using this stuff as it will remove all the oils from your skin (or else your hands will wind up looking like Abe Simpson's).

Here is a photo after about three hours of soaking, once I got a bigger tub and fully submerged the grill. The paint just seems to break up and flake away with just a little persuading from a soft plastic bristle brush. (Do not use metal bristles as they will scratch the plastic!)

Here is the link to the model car website that tested the various methods of plastic paint stripping including brake fluid(!), Easy Off Oven Cleaner, specialized model car paint strippers and Super Clean:

http://www.bonediggers.com/1-3/strip/strip.html

Once all the stripping is done make sure you flush the entire object in cold water till it is squeaky clean. This stuff tends to leave a slimy feeling if there is still any residue left on the part.

***By the way, the modeler guys also use this stuff to strip chrome from plastic so I wouldnt use it on any plastic part with chrome accents like a dash bezel.
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  #303  
Old 04-18-2007, 12:24 AM
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cdoggy81 cdoggy81 is offline
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Nice

__________________
************************************************** *******************

73 TA 4 spd #'s match red/white - "STOLEN" AT TERRY SPEAR's SHOP IN Columbia TN ~mid 2014
Last offical pic of the car can been seen here:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/pontiactn/...%20-%20rev.pdf
People have seen it posted FS on Craigs List back in late 2013 early 2014....

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO ABOUT IT PLEASE CONTACT ME!!!
  #304  
Old 04-18-2007, 01:55 PM
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Here is the progress after 24 hours of soaking and gentle brushing with a plastic bristle scrub brush. For the honeycombed areas I have been using a .45 caliber plastic bore brush, though a shotgun bore brush might be a better fit if I could find one. The Super Clean is even progressing well on the the thick argent paint material on the inside of the grill. There has been no effect on the plastic so far. It is still hard, no softening of the outer surface whatsoever.
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  #305  
Old 04-19-2007, 09:27 PM
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And here is the result after 48 hours of soaking. Now it's time to soak the other side grill.

By the way does anyone have a small section of broken 72 honeycomb grill I can use? There is one broken bar section in this grill, about 1/2 inch wide, I need to repair.
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  #306  
Old 04-19-2007, 10:03 PM
cheapheat cheapheat is offline
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Default SafeRustRemover- Can soften Metal

I've been doing alot of studying on safe rust removers and just a precautionary note - Chelating which is the process of "saferustremover and other similars" will soften metal. Only a danger probaly if you leave the part in much longer than necesary. Such as the previous soaking springs for a week.
There is another method also involving sodium carbonate and a plastic pail with rebar rods placed around the perimeter and using a car charger apply voltage. here are a few more descritive links. I do believe it removes paint as well though.
http://www.instructables.com/id/E17UQMY28PEQ6T2A5Z/

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoep...lyticrust.html

  #307  
Old 04-19-2007, 10:23 PM
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Neat stuff. Makes me sorry I slept through high school chemistry class!

  #308  
Old 04-20-2007, 05:11 PM
eedave eedave is offline
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Steve, I have a set of 72' grills that you can have if you can't find a small piece to repair yours.

  #309  
Old 04-20-2007, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eedave
Steve, I have a set of 72' grills that you can have if you can't find a small piece to repair yours.
Are they broken? I dont want to cut up a good grill just for a 1/2 piece of plastic.

  #310  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:23 PM
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I ended up repairing the broken section of grill. I first filed the edges so it was a clean area. I then hunted around the house and finally found an old broken plastic wiring harness retainer from, of all things, my old long-gone 1971 Hemicuda Convertible! (So now there's some Mopar donor material in this Pontiac...) It was made of the same type of heavy plastic as the grill and almost the exact same age, give or take six months.

I cut a small section off and filed it to the correct width but left it with an extra amount of material 3/8" long so I could handle more easily while fitting it into the grill space. I also pre-scored a line before the 3/8" tab so I could break it off once it was glued in and set.
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  #311  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:24 PM
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I used a two-part epoxy called "Plastic Weld" and mixed it as directed. (It sets very quickly and dries hard so you gotta move fast!) I set the piece in place and smoothed over the repair. You only have about 45 seconds to do this as it is hardening. It goes from clear to white as it sets. Once it dries in about 15 minutes, you can sand it and reapply it if you need to refill a spot.

Front view and rear view:
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  #312  
Old 04-20-2007, 08:26 PM
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Once it is set and hardened. I snapped off the 3/8" tab and sanded the repair. For sanding the inside areas of the honeycomb I used a plastic knife from Wendy's (they're much better than the cheap McDonalds plastic kinives) and wrapped it in sandpaper. It fit perfectly and was able to flex to fit the interior areas. Here is the finished repair:

Front view and rear view:
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  #313  
Old 04-21-2007, 07:38 PM
crc crc is offline
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You do good work Steve! Really enjoy the play by play. Please keep it coming.

  #314  
Old 04-22-2007, 02:55 PM
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Well Done Yes, keep it coming!

__________________
************************************************** *******************

73 TA 4 spd #'s match red/white - "STOLEN" AT TERRY SPEAR's SHOP IN Columbia TN ~mid 2014
Last offical pic of the car can been seen here:
http://clubs.hemmings.com/pontiactn/...%20-%20rev.pdf
People have seen it posted FS on Craigs List back in late 2013 early 2014....

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
IF YOU HAVE ANY INFO ABOUT IT PLEASE CONTACT ME!!!
  #315  
Old 04-23-2007, 07:54 AM
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Here is the finished product. I ended up masking off the outside and painting the front and back of the blacked out grill section first. It took a lot of masking tape and newspaper. I sprayed it with flat black, let it dry and then masked off the black area and sprayed the inner part of the grill face with the OEM Paints Pontiac Honeycomb Wheel paint. As long as you follow directions, it sprays out nice and dry and leaves a nice consistant sparkly, argent finish. Once that dried I reattached the outer molding and retaining clips and I was (half) done. The other grill is still soaking at the moment and I will be finishing that one in the next couple days.
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  #316  
Old 04-24-2007, 08:11 PM
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And here is the finished pair, awaiting the nose assembly to put it in.
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  #317  
Old 04-24-2007, 09:04 PM
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Better than new I'm sure. Nice work.

  #318  
Old 04-25-2007, 10:10 PM
frank2w87 frank2w87 is offline
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Steve,
How were you able to determine the silver paint on the grilles was the metallic type used for the honeycomb wheels? I think my '72's were never painted and they did not have the textured finish like honeycombs. Do you know when the break point was when they started using this paint? Your grills look awesome!

  #319  
Old 04-26-2007, 06:51 AM
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I was going by eye. The original grill paint on my 12A built 72 was lightly textured argent silver. The Honeycomb paint replicated the original finish perfectly.

  #320  
Old 04-26-2007, 05:29 PM
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My bodyman sent me a couple more photos today of the block sanding progress. He has both doors done, (including the NOS skin on the driver's door), the hood and the trunklid. These were a couple of the in-process shots. More to come...
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