[will slow gto]

Originally Posted by roger1

I received both my new Pro6Ten compressor and my new hybrid alternator and finished up with the installation today. I also bought some new silver cad plated grade 5 bolts for installing these and the power steering. I have not received the mini starter yet.









I decided to go ahead and order new valve covers, oil cap and ARP stainless bolts for both the new valve covers and the intake manifold and should receive those this week.

Excellent news too. My transmission was shipped today via FedEx Freight. Delivery estimate is next Monday.

I did receive the bucket seat foams at the end of last week and got them and the metal rear panels down to the interior shop. He said he probably wont get to them for at least another couple of weeks but he knows I am in no hurry for them. I do have new headrests for the seats that I received from Ames but I need to get them painted with vinyl spray paint since they were only available in black. I just ordered the supplies from Ames and should get that this week too. Adhesion promoter, white base coat and Metallic Parchment for the color.

Is the A/C compressor bracket a factory unit or aftermarket? It looks a lot more substantial than the one Vintage Air sells for the Sanden compressor.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by will slow gto

Is the A/C compressor bracket a factory unit or aftermarket? It looks a lot more substantial than the one Vintage Air sells for the Sanden compressor.

Those are the factory compressor brackets. I deburred the aluminum bracket, blasted it and sprayed it with aluminum engine enamel.
I couldn't use one of the factory bracket that secures the top rear of the compressor to the intake manifold. It can't be used with the Edelbrock intake. I don't think it's necessary anyway since the weight of the Pro6TEN compressor is about half of an original A6.

I think Sanden makes a really good compressor but there were a several things I liked about the Pro6TEN better beyond being able to use the factory brackets. It has a larger cu. in displacement which should give it a bit better low rpm performance. I also like the fact that the hoses mount to a manifold on the back of the compressor rather than stick out to the side. Also when using a Sanden with a V belt accessory drive, it will have a double groove pulley. To me it makes it look like you are missing a belt and I don't like that look.

[3 Chiefs]

I cant wait for your opinion on the FI setup after you drive it a bit. It looks so darn cool too.

[dataway]

Holy Crap. I didn't even see many posts on the engine build ... and all of sudden there it is!

[dataway]

Very interesting dyno results, your engine is very similar to mine (YS 400, .040 over, 16 heads, 9.5-10:1, SpeedPros with 14 cc dish, 068 cam) biggest difference is my log exhausts, and Q-jet I think, not sure how 72cc 16s flow compared to your heads. I'd be very happy with 375 hp.
Yours sounded great at idle too. I will also be very interested in how you think the FI behaves in everyday use.
You seem to have this whole car building thing down pat

[roger1]

I don't know if there is any difference between 16 and 62 heads. I didn't think so. They put them both on 1968, and 69 400s at the same HP ratings.
Other than the Edelbrock EFI, I can't take any credit for the choice of internals. The guy I bought the car from bought all the parts. Looks like he did good!

[will slow gto]

425 HP @5k RPM is crazy good for a 400 with stock heads. Makes me want to ditch the logs and 067 cam in my stock 69 YS/62 head 400 and install some ram air manifolds and the 702 voodoo cam.

[roger1]

Originally Posted by will slow gto

425 HP @5k RPM is crazy good for a 400 with stock heads. Makes me want to ditch the logs and 067 cam in my stock 69 YS/62 head 400 and install some ram air manifolds and the 702 voodoo cam.

It really is and the torque is incredible too.
I don't know why Lunati says this cam gives a "choppy" idle. Sounds pretty smooth to me.

[68gtoMN]

Originally Posted by roger1

It really is and the torque is incredible too.
I don't know why Lunati says this cam gives a "choppy" idle. Sounds pretty smooth to me.

Roger, I enjoyed reading this entire thread today. First, to your comment about choppy idle - fuel injection setups generally tend to smooth the idle on a "choppy" cam compared to a carburetor application of same cam. The fuel metering is more precise and the ability to adjust for variances is vast, so no surprise there. Great numbers.

As so many have responded, you have done the hobby a great service in this thread. You have given a master class in patience, planning for dependencies, being methodical and believing in your ability to just do what was necessary. Call yourself an amateur or hobbyist if you like - many professionals could learn a thing or two about how to do things correctly from your approach. The results are the fruits of your vision, your approach and your resolve. Many will be inspired from this effort and what was formerly too daunting for some to tackle will be transformed into action because of what you shared and how well you documented your journey.

I can't wait to see the finished project! Cheers! Kurt

[Greg Reid]

That's gonna be at the center of 1.5 tons o' fun right there!

Sent from my moto g stylus (2021) using Tapatalk

[roger1]

It took 3 months plus 1 week to get but it finally got here today:













Art acquired and sent everything I should need including a Lokar throttle bracket specifically made for the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 and a Lokar TV cable.

I got a few things done few days while I've been waiting for the transmission to get here.
Figured out a way to mount my coil. The original bracket won't work with the Edelbrock intake. I found something cheap that worked perfectly. It's a #4 rigid conduit holder. I used one to mount the fuel filter on the frame rail too. I've used them on a few other cars in the past too but never for a coil. I bet no one ever notices it's not an automotive part.

I also did a failed test with the Parchment vinyl dye paint that I bought from Ames in order to paint my new headrests to match my interior. I talked to Ames on phone about the match before I bought the cans and they guy said even though they make the paint to match the PUI brand of interior I should be able to match the Legendary as well. Well no. It's not really even close. Just way too yellow. So, I did what I should have done in the first place and call the place Legendary recommends called Kolor Korrect. The woman I talked to was very helpful in knew all the answers. Expensive though. $280 but it is guaranteed to match. I ordered pints instead of spray cans. She says if you are a painter, the pints are a better way to go. She also confirmed my choice. Legendary is hands down the better quality interior versus PUI.



I installed the ARP stainless bolts for the intake manifold and the valve covers. I did get the new valve covers from Ames but I decided not to put them on now. Better to wait until one of the last things to avoid getting any scratches in them. I neatened up the spark plug wire routing too. I also installed a new Milodon 180 thermostat.





Tomorrow I plan to bolt up the transmission to the engine. I figured I should read all the instructions that Art sent first so I will do that this evening. My wife did help me lift the transmission over the frame rail and onto the transmission jack. Good to go but I will need to raise the frame up a bit to get the engine high enough.

[wagzilla]

Looks good, can't wait

[will slow gto]

Originally Posted by roger1

It took 3 months plus 1 week to get but it finally got here today:













Art acquired and sent everything I should need including a Lokar throttle bracket specifically made for the Edelbrock ProFlo 4 and a Lokar TV cable.

I got a few things done few days while I've been waiting for the transmission to get here.
Figured out a way to mount my coil. The original bracket won't work with the Edelbrock intake. I found something cheap that worked perfectly. It's a #4 rigid conduit holder. I used one to mount the fuel filter on the frame rail too. I've used them on a few other cars in the past too but never for a coil. I bet no one ever notices it's not an automotive part.

I also did a failed test with the Parchment vinyl dye paint that I bought from Ames in order to paint my new headrests to match my interior. I talked to Ames on phone about the match before I bought the cans and they guy said even though they make the paint to match the PUI brand of interior I should be able to match the Legendary as well. Well no. It's not really even close. Just way too yellow. So, I did what I should have done in the first place and call the place Legendary recommends called Kolor Korrect. The woman I talked to was very helpful in knew all the answers. Expensive though. $280 but it is guaranteed to match. I ordered pints instead of spray cans. She says if you are a painter, the pints are a better way to go. She also confirmed my choice. Legendary is hands down the better quality interior versus PUI.



I installed the ARP stainless bolts for the intake manifold and the valve covers. I did get the new valve covers from Ames but I decided not to put them on now. Better to wait until one of the last things to avoid getting any scratches in them. I neatened up the spark plug wire routing too. I also installed a new Milodon 180 thermostat.





Tomorrow I plan to bolt up the transmission to the engine. I figured I should read all the instructions that Art sent first so I will do that this evening. My wife did help me lift the transmission over the frame rail and onto the transmission jack. Good to go but I will need to raise the frame up a bit to get the engine high enough.

Hey Roger, I’m curious which level Art Carr 200r4 you went with. It looks like you got one with the bop bolt pattern so you don’t need the adapter plate. Do you know if 200r4 requires and ‘massaging’ of the floor pan/braces? Thanks and keep up the stellar work!

[roger1]

Originally Posted by will slow gto

Hey Roger, I’m curious which level Art Carr 200r4 you went with. It looks like you got one with the bop bolt pattern so you don’t need the adapter plate. Do you know if 200r4 requires and ‘massaging’ of the floor pan/braces? Thanks and keep up the stellar work!

Thanks!
I got his 400 to 600HP version with a BOP pattern.
No messaging at all. It fits perfectly. With the yoke he sells, the original driveshaft fits fine too but it does need a conversion type u-joint.

[Scarebird]

Should run quite nice!

Roger - one thing you may want to examine is the routing of #'s 5 and 7 wires; they can cause a miss as if the wires are parallel they can cross talk. My 83 Camaro shop manual had a very specific warning concerning this issue.

[dataway]

I can't wait for the movie!

[roger1]

Thanks guys!
Scarebird, thanks for that info. I did a little more reading on the issue and about how to cross them at a right angle.
I just went out to the shop and re-routed #5 and #7.
Btw, should it be a true 90 deg right angle or is just some angle good enough? Also I wonder if today's spark plug wire designs change the magnetic field in any way to reduce the chances of inductive crossfire.

[Ben M.]

Originally Posted by roger1

Thanks guys!
Btw, should it be a true 90 deg right angle or is just some angle good enough? Also I wonder if today's spark plug wire designs change the magnetic field in any way to reduce the chances of inductive crossfire.

Just get it close enough, it doesn't have to be 100%. The field decays exponentially with distance, so just moving it 1/2" or more is a considerable drop in the ability to induce. Modern spark plug wires supposedly have better shielding with a thicker dielectric, which also helps.

You can run them semi-close, just don't leave them sitting on top of each other. Quite a few people like to argue about this, but that's just my experience working with these cars plus high voltage for a living.

[roger1]

I got the transmission mounted and put the dip stick tube on it too:



When I put first put the yoke in the transmission, it wouldn't slide all the way in. It bottomed out on the inside and left about 1- 1/4" gap between the shaft seal and the yoke shoulder. I called Art and he said yes, he has those made up and they are long and have to be cut off. So I cut 1-1/4" off and now it will slide all the way in. This photo shows how much gap there will be when the u -joint is installed:



It's at 5/8". Less gap than with the stock Turbo 400 even though the 200-4R is 1/2" shorter transmission because the head of the yoke is larger. Another thing I didn't know is this yoke fits a 1350 u-joint so it requires using a conversion type u-joint. I had bought 2 new stock u-joints. I guess I should have asked Art before I did that. Stock u-joints are type 44S/3R so today I ordered a Spicer 5-3205X which is a 1350 - 44S/3R conversion.

I received some fuel fittings I had order so installed the fuel lines at the engine. I'm not a fan of the braided hose bling so I'm using Gates Green Shield fuel injection hose with Earls Vapor Guard AN fittings. They work perfectly together. I opted to use Oetiker ear clamps as I think they look better than screw type clamps. Supply is on the p/s and return on the d/s.



I used a screw clamp here. I didn't use a fitting since there was a bead on the end of the tube. Using an ear clamp here would mean having to get a cutting tool down there to remove the hose.



I got shipping notices today on the vinyl paint I ordered for headrests and for the RobbMc mini starter which has been on backorder for the last 3 weeks.

[Andretti]

I'd have to go back through this whole thread to recall if you're running HEI for spark but Scarebird offers wise advice even if you're not. Seeing that Corona effect on many GM's after shutting them off make you appreciate the amount energy there.