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#21
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I would bet though the heat cycling the cast iron vs Epoxy in an exhaust port the coefficients are not the same and would loosen.
Indy Cylinder heads used to do cast iron repair.
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Skip Fix 1978 Trans Am original owner 10.99 @ 124 pump gas 455 E heads, NO Bird ever! 1981 Black SE Trans Am stockish 6X 400ci, turbo 301 on a stand 1965 GTO 4 barrel 3 speed project 2004 GTO Pulse Red stock motor computer tune 13.43@103.4 1964 Impala SS 409/470ci 600 HP stroker project 1979 Camaro IAII Edelbrock head 500" 695 HP 10.33@132 3595lbs |
#22
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For repairs in exh ports of blocking off exh crossovers there’s a ceramic epoxy just for that type of work.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#23
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I know some new head are found so it is not really an issue fixing these anymore. But, I frequently weld iron heads and use epoxy on heads. Looking at those pictures of the problem area you could definitely have added epoxy and ran it. Bolzona or Resibond are probably the best IMHO. Followed by Splash Zone, then Moroso A-B. JBweld is ok for some stuff. Splash zone was out of stock last time tried to ordered it. If you want to never have an issue with epoxy use to Evans waterless coolant.
There is plenty of room for epoxy there on that spot in the bowl. I would actually epoxy all the ports in that area, (Steve25 said it also on a earlier post). Most times I ported and intake like that I lost flow. There is no reason to cut the bowl down that deep. If the port gets extremely thin I will weld and use epoxy. This Resibond is what I use on the exhaust side. Last edited by Jay S; 05-07-2024 at 04:28 PM. |
#24
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Resbond 907GF is what I use for exhaust work. heat rating…2350*F
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#25
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all good points hopefully someone can use this info in the future! Thanks all for commenting with solutions.
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72 Luxury Lemans nicely optioned |
The Following User Says Thank You to indymanjoe For This Useful Post: | ||
#26
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Also, I don’t think it was mentioned, but if you are using Ethanol, it can lift Splash Zone, Moroso a&b, or JBweld. For E15, and even E10, they need covered with a urethane paint to protect them. Belzona 1111 is more resistant to ethanol and antifreeze than those, and doesn’t require anything special to protect it. It is more expensive though.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Jay S For This Useful Post: | ||
#27
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Yes, and Balzona is expensive but welding or brazing is far more expensive!
Depending on where your welding or brazing localized heat if near a valve guide can sift it when cool. So now your into not just the cost of the welding, but a new valve guide and in all likelihood a touch up valve job.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
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