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#1
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Thank you for your reply B-Man. I have considered the 400 engine for this build, but since i plan on another pontiac down the road with a 400 or 455, i figured what the hell!
I read about Continental on a few threads and I hear nothing but good results. However, they ARE kinda pricey ($350+). How are the B&M or hughes converters? Anybody had any luck with these? Looks like 068 is the way to go. If I want to go to 1.65 rockers what kind if gains will I see in performance? What modifications will need to be done to use 1.65 rockers? |
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#2
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Will advancing the cam 4 degree's make the 350 "run out of breathe" too soon? I read on the other thread to advance 2 degree's (on the 068 cam).
It won't 'run out of breath', it will still spin to 5500 no problem. Advancing the cam moves the powerband down a few hundred RPMs to a range that's more useful for the smaller 350 engine. Keep in mind that the 068 was first used in bigger 389/400 engines and later on in 428/455 engines. Putting this cam in a smaller engine makes it act like a bigger cam, so advancing it will put it in a range that will be better matched to the smaller engine. For a car with an auto trans this makes a big difference in performance. You probably won't need to shift it much past 5000 to make good power. What is the difference from 2 degree's and 4 degree's? That would be 2 degrees. Seriously, a 2 degree difference won't be quite enough to notice, go for 4. That will be enough to shift the powerband for better torque down low without going too far. Now my question for you: Did you use my easy method to find your rear gear ratio yet?
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#3
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i have recently rebuilt a 350 w/#11 heads. I had them milled .30 w/ screw-in studs. An adjustable valve train, and remember, if using the comp magnum rockers and the ARP 290-701 studs u will have to add steel washers to make this work. Crane springs edelbrock rpm intake. New melling oil pump w/ARP shaft, Lunati 638-00071 cam & lifters. MSD pro billet ditributor, precision 2400 stall & rebuilt 350TH tranny, dynomax 15/8 ceramic coated headers w/21/2 flomasters,carter maech. pump & demon 750 carb. Don't forget the march underdrive. Eaton posi w/ richmond 3:55 gears. Sounds rough, and runs strong. If i were to keep the motor i would open the heads for bigger valves, but would have to also notch the block. think about this set-up.
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#4
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Ah, that's good to hear! So performance will suffer without newer springs? Noticably? Seeing as it still has the same 2bbl cam i should notice a BETTER responing car
I'm having doubt on the "2.78" gears i have. It feels like the engine's RPM is kinda high when i get to 60-70 MPH. I don't have a Tach so I don't know, but sounds like it will run out of gear if I hit 100 mph, or LESS What time set would you recommend? Thanks much for the reply B-Man! |
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#5
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Sounds nice DD! What was the end result? Any HP/TQ numbers or 1/4 mile ET's? Looking at all those premium parts I'd say you're into the motor for at least $5K, probably more???
Thanks! Jim.
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* '69 Custom S - 2dr Hardtop Coupe - Rust-free Oregon survivor with all original panels and original trunk floor * Engine alive and kickin' March 2nd, '06 ![]() * RA-IV 'spec' 400 (.060-over = 410ci), balanced, Comp Cams #9794041, #16 heads (72cc converted to large valve) with 1.65 Harland Sharp Rollers * QuadraJet #7042210, HEI, Hurst V-Gate, FlowTech Headers, X-Pipe with dumps, Flowmasters, TH-350, 3.90 Posi * Best ET: 14.06 - Bandimere Speedway, CO. @ 5,800+' |
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#6
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Burn outs rule!!!!!!!!
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72 Lemans
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#7
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Last post before I install cam tomorrow. I was reading the thread and another 350 thread one last time and came up with a question. Will advancing the cam 4 degree's make the 350 "run out of breathe" too soon? I read on the other thread to advance 2 degree's (on the 068 cam). What is the difference from 2 degree's and 4 degree's? I don't mean question your knowledge or offend you b-man, I just wanna make sure.
On a side disappointing note... A week ago when i went to autozone to pick up some stuff. Coming home I ran into a honda civic. He slowed down at a yellow light to wait for me i guess, but i didn't think much of it. I was an empty area with no cars, but I didn't wanna race. I looked over at him and his girlfriend, and the guy looked over at me and laughed! |
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#8
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For sound and performance, it's hard to beat the Dynomax Ultraflows. These outflow the "Flowmasters" by alot. They sound mild at idle, which is a plus for a daily driver, but get loud when you step on the right pedal.
Mike
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Mike 1977 Trans Am Y82 '69 428, stock '69 #16's, 041 RAIV/Rhoads, 3.42s, Cliff Q-Jet, Continental Tight-10/TH350, RA Manifolds (oversized, ported) with Pypes x-pipe system and Street Pro's, Edelbrock Classic IAS shocks, PST polygraphite suspension, custom subframe connectors. Still waiting on my Tri-Y headers (since June 2005).
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#9
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Wow, all this time hanging with the chevy crowd I thought flowmaster were the way to go. WHat magnaflow would you suggest? I just went to their site and they sound sooo much better than flowmaster!
I have a 4hole spacer I got from a friend, but doesn't have secondary side opened. I don't know the total timing, initial is 12. Also my Delco Remy Dis. doesn't have a vac. adv.. Nick, Im putting it in a 1970 LeMans hardtop. Ok, so no head porting will need to be done? Just a basic clean up i suppose? Im going to a Qjet then |
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#10
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Both the B&M and Hughes converters are good, between the two I would go with the Hughes.
Running 1.65 rockers will mean converting the heads to screw-in studs and clearancing the pushrod holes. Not worth the extra money in my opinion for a very small performance gain. The 068 cam with 1.5 rockers won't be a problem with the stock press-in rocker studs, 1.65s will probably break the studs. This is one of the main reasons I recommend the 068 cam. Folks running press-in studs and stock valve springs won't need to go to the expense and hassle of changing them. Plus it's a very nice running cam.
__________________
1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#11
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The best timing set is a Rollmaster 9-keyway, about $90. I've also used the Cloyes Tru-Roller 3-keyway, about $80.
As mentioned rev the engine and just watch the timing mark on the balancer move using your timing light, at a certain point (RPM) it will stop moving. This is where the mechanical advance mechanism inside the distributor hits its peak and stops advancing. Note where it stopped moving, then advance or retard the timing by moving the distributor until it hits 32 degrees as the max setting. With a dial-back timing light just set the dial to 32 and make the TDC mark on the balancer line up with the zero on your timing tab. With a standard light you'll need to mark the balancer at 32 degrees, easily done by measuring the circumference of the balancer and dividing that number by 360 to find one degree.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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#12
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I dont think it applies here since Your completely rebuilt anyway. It was Either a rod rod bearing issue or rod bolt issue. I cant remember but it was recalled on the 72 pontiac 350 engine.Wish I had Known Good luck Btw!
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72 Lemans
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#13
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Well,now u must do the bottom-end! This is were the money starts to be a problem. For an daily driver this set-up is perfect. Strength,power and reliability. If u r looking for hi-performance speed then u are going to have to put more money into the motor,i.e. do the bottom-end, rings,pistons, rods, magnaflux,etc... This was my next dilema. My solution, Jim Butler Performance, 467 stroker..
Don't get me wrong the way this 350 gets out of the hole is a monster, but the bottom-end is really were pontiacs perform best they are not called "torque monsters for nothing." |
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#14
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The 2801 won't likely break the studs, but the 068 will be easier on them. Plus I think the 068 is a better cam even with less lift. Even though folks call the 2801 an '068 clone with more lift' it isn't even though they are quite similar. Get a Melling 068, Auto Zone special order P/N SPC-7. Yes, a nice little lope with the 068 in a 350.
Porting the exhaust side isn't needed to run headers, do it if you want. The small ports of the Performer are very efficient and perfect for a 350, leave it be. Gasket matching it is fine but I wouldn't bother myself. Benefits of a Q-jet? Better carb all-around, better gas mileage and ability to use on any size Pontiac engine (all are either 750 or 800 CFM). I'd sell the Holley for a Q-jet in a heartbeat.
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1964 Tempest Coupe LS3/4L70E/3.42 1964 Le Mans Convertible 421 HO/TH350/3.08 2002 WS6 Convertible LS1/4L60E/3.23 1966 VW Type 2 Single Cab Pickup 140hp 2276 1956 VW Type 2 Panel Van 36hp 1200 1957 VW Type 1 Beetle 180hp 2276 |
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